pics/illustration request: 4wd dc teg or eg/ek civic

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nope. I had to use a ford 8.8 turbo rear end. mike said that this rear end offered better gear sets and a stronger pumpkin to suport all that power. 650 hp is a lot. that turbo on there will surely support up to 720 hp.
 
gotboost858 said:
nope. I had to use a ford 8.8 turbo rear end. mike said that this rear end offered better gear sets and a stronger pumpkin to suport all that power. 650 hp is a lot. that turbo on there will surely support up to 720 hp.
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So how does that work with the 5.33 CRV trans ratio thing?
Are you still using the crv trans as well?
Sorry just curious.;)
 
yep still using the crv transmission. the week link of the entire setupis the output shaft from the crv transmision to the transaxle. the ford 8.8 that I am using come in a wide veriety of gear ratios. the crv transfers tq ford the rear wheels at a 5.33 rear drive ratio meaning all I need to do is be within 1 percent of the drive ratio and im good. tire and wheel size can also play a prt in the final dementions as well.
 
Sweet build im glad some of the info i provided was usefull> the answer to the older question of the awd vs 2wd trailing arms. They are the same lenth aslong as you keep the trailing arms in the same car.. EX Civic 4door 4wd trailingarms will work on all civic, integras (eg,ej,ek)( EDIT- CRV trailing arms are to long and the upper control arm connection is to tall so they would not be good arms to start with. You could use the hubs if you wanted to go to a 5 lug conversion front and rear- EDIT) the Ef civics the trailing arms must be shortened from the Wagovan. So if you have a set of 4wd RTSI trailing arms they will be able to attatch directly to the civic you intend on setting it up with 4wd. The guy that converted his ej8 coupe used the Ek sedan RTSI trailing arms and did not need to change the length of them. ( the post of the black coupe) I was on VW vortex and notice how they were doing there AWD conversions. They did more of a factory look by drilling out the spot welds of the rear under belly section of the car. Aquired AWD under skin then welded it up to the rear of the car. This allowed them to use the gas tank and all the factory parts. the trim panels in the civics would not change. If some one had a great JDM source they could find a rear cut of an RTSI and cut the underbelly out and mount it to there car then spray underbody spray underneeth to make a nice clean factory look.
 
Riseagain97 said:
Sweet build im glad some of the info i provided was usefull> the answer to the older question of the awd vs 2wd trailing arms. They are the same lenth aslong as you keep the trailing arms in the same car.. EX Civic 4door 4wd trailingarms will work on all civic, integras (eg,ej,ek)( EDIT- CRV trailing arms are to long and the upper control arm connection is to tall so they would not be good arms to start with. You could use the hubs if you wanted to go to a 5 lug conversion front and rear- EDIT) the Ef civics the trailing arms must be shortened from the Wagovan. So if you have a set of 4wd RTSI trailing arms they will be able to attatch directly to the civic you intend on setting it up with 4wd. The guy that converted his ej8 coupe used the Ek sedan RTSI trailing arms and did not need to change the length of them. ( the post of the black coupe) I was on VW vortex and notice how they were doing there AWD conversions. They did more of a factory look by drilling out the spot welds of the rear under belly section of the car. Aquired AWD under skin then welded it up to the rear of the car. This allowed them to use the gas tank and all the factory parts. the trim panels in the civics would not change. If some one had a great JDM source they could find a rear cut of an RTSI and cut the underbelly out and mount it to there car then spray underbody spray underneeth to make a nice clean factory look.
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eesh unfortunately all this does for me is add more confusion. I've been following several awd builds (including jaker's and rallysol's on here & H-T) and anyone I've heard from on the matter say that the 4wd arms are indeed vastly different from the normal fwd arms including in overall length and where the arms mount up.

Although I did find it funny that you mentioned acquiring a factory 4wd underbody, I'm in the process of searching for an importer that can supply me with a rear clip or shell. I think I've pretty much decided that if my project is to continue, I want to do it with all the correct parts. I'm sure it will be more costly that way up front at least, but in the long run it will save me all that fab work and headaches. I'll have the correct floorpan, fuel tank setup, mounting points, suspension, etc etc. And to my understanding the rear suspension will allow me to run crv trailing arms ;)

incidentally, if anyone happens to know of any importers that deal in stuff like this, please lmk. At this point I'd love to see the project continue
 
I have a buddy who's living in Japan now, who I can ask to look for some stuff personally for ya?
 
that would be great, although then I'll have to figure out how to get the stuff shipped over here

I'm pretty sure any rt4wd car will work- eg/ek/teg(?)
 
Well, I guess while he's in the process of finding a few things for me, I could see if he has time to do the shipping... I doubt he'll wanna do it, so we may have to pay him to lol
 
well The guy i talked to that lives in Sweden with the coupe i posted pictures didnt need to modify his arms at all.. I can see using CRV arms thosea are to long and Wagovans arms are to short but according to the guy i talked to he used the un molested trailing arms of a 96-00 civic Rtsi. From the pictures it looks like the wheels are perfect in the fender well
 
Although I did find it funny that you mentioned acquiring a factory 4wd underbody, I'm in the process of searching for an importer that can supply me with a rear clip or shell. I think I've pretty much decided that if my project is to continue, I want to do it with all the correct parts. I'm sure it will be more costly that way up front at least, but in the long run it will save me all that fab work and headaches. I'll have the correct floorpan, fuel tank setup, mounting points, suspension, etc etc. And to my understanding the rear suspension will allow me to run crv trailing arms ;)

incidentally, if anyone happens to know of any importers that deal in stuff like this, please lmk. At this point I'd love to see the project continue
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Thats the BEST way to do it i think. Thats the way i would do it if i had the time/money is get the actual parts that way i dont have to put a fuel cell in the trunk and when people look under the car they cant tell it wasnt available on the US cars. Just a smooth transition> the Swedish kids build was the Simplelest using minamal fabrication but i think i would rather do it right than simple
 
In my build I went for maximum performance capabillities and wanted to be flexible for the amount of power made for the track, curcuit, and drift trials so i built it this way by the designs of Mike Stafford of Stafford Fabrication based out of Lancaster CA. I have since then Contacted IPT Transmission out of New Jersey and have been told that their is no availible LSD but Phantom Grips Garbage for the CRV transmission but they could build my transmission for 2050.00 out the door to withstand 400 hp. www.importperformancetrans.com
These are the only people that I have been able to find over the last 3 years of searching that can build this transmission and garentee the operation of this setup. Everyone else is way to expensive and not familiar with the build. Check them out EG, DC, EJ 4wd enthusists.
 
PERFORMANCE MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS for:Accord, Civic, CRX, Prelude, Integra, Legend, Vigor, NSX, 3.2 TL, 2.5TL, 3.2CL, 3.0CL, 2.3CL

  • Upgraded Lube System
  • Gears are Shot Peened and Magnetic Particle Inspected (Magnafluxed)
  • Gears Chamfered and Hand Detailed
  • Extreme Duty Synchro Rings
  • Heat Treated Splines
  • Cryogenically Treated Gearsets and Shafts
  • Hardened Shift Rails
  • Heat Treated Forks and Premium Heavy Duty Bearings
  • Limited Slip Differentials (LSD's) Available for Many Applications
  • Custom Ratios Available for Many Applications
honda-civic.jpg
Honda and Acura Manual Transmissions
Honda / Acura with 5 Speed- $2050
 
sweet thx for the info

unfortunately this project has been shelved again, I got involved in a few other projects including new driveline builds for both my teg and si, and a 54 chevy belair that was love at 1st sight and I couldn't say no. Plus my gf and I are moving to nc in a few months so it's on hold indefinitely for now

I have decided that if I go ahead with the awd project, it's very doubtful that I'll end up running the b-series crv trans. A couple of my machinist buddies and I did figure out how I was going to run close ratio gears in it with a custom lsd, but there was going to be a LOT of machining and fab work involved. The gears weren't that bid of a deal, but the lsd required manufacturing a ring gear flange side case half from scratch. The b-series crv diff is not that much different from any other honda diff, but the ring gear flange is in a totally different spot. I could have done it with just the close ratio gearing and not the lsd but if I cant do the lsd then I don't want to do it at all.

if I do go forward with the project it's much more likely that I'll go k-series for various reasons. I already have an element trans in pieces in the back of my shop, along with an eg subframe and front suspension for when it's ready to go in. The only holdups now are still trying to find a viscous unit of the correct dimensions to replace the clutch pack and a helical lsd for the rear. If I get desperate I could just weld the clutch pack solid and install a driveshaft viscous like the older wagons, but I'd really rather have it inside the case. And I have come up with sortof a solution (if you want to call it that) to be able to fit a rear lsd, but it involves removing the case bolts and welding the case together permanently. There is just no room for both the lateral gears and the case bolts, they would all have to occupy the same space. I know it sounds retarded, but all it really does is make the diff non-rebuildable

Unless of course someone can find me a diff that is designed with smaller internals. I've been thru quaife's entire archives of design specs with no luck

just throwing this out there if anyone wants to contribute to the fund, I would definitely be willing to make it more of a priority :)

my b-series crv is up fs also if anyone else on here needs one or interested in starting their own awd build. I can include the plans for making it close ratio gearing and adding the lsd
 
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would it still be a 4wd setup if you put in close gear ratio design and the lsd? If its a geared rear diff would it really need to be rebuilt. I changed my original plan due to the fact that the ford 8.8 rear diff would cause too much drag on the drive train. Since then the Idea has come from Mike Stafford to use an old Celica All Track rear end for reliability and durabillity. Less of a drive train loss. he did say that I could go with a little tire size alteration also just no staggering.
 
You feel like modifing the reanny for me and I will buy yours from you. Ill make it worth your time. Ive got alote of money tied up into this build and dont want to see it go to wast. Going to hang onto the B-series for a while. I also plan on building a K series for an RSX project that I have been looking to do. AWD K24 RSX. Sound scarry just thinking about it. Definetly sounds fun though. Gotta give it a try and run with it though. I will be moving to Maryland soon. See you around over there. Meet and greets are always nice.
 
gotboost858 said:
would it still be a 4wd setup if you put in close gear ratio design and the lsd? If its a geared rear diff would it really need to be rebuilt. I changed my original plan due to the fact that the ford 8.8 rear diff would cause too much drag on the drive train. Since then the Idea has come from Mike Stafford to use an old Celica All Track rear end for reliability and durabillity. Less of a drive train loss. he did say that I could go with a little tire size alteration also just no staggering.
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I was planning on keeping all the same final drive ratios, was only going to make 1-5 tighter so it doesn't mess anything up in the awd

gotboost858 said:
You feel like modifing the reanny for me and I will buy yours from you. Ill make it worth your time. Ive got alote of money tied up into this build and dont want to see it go to wast. Going to hang onto the B-series for a while. I also plan on building a K series for an RSX project that I have been looking to do. AWD K24 RSX. Sound scarry just thinking about it. Definetly sounds fun though. Gotta give it a try and run with it though. I will be moving to Maryland soon. See you around over there. Meet and greets are always nice.
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pm sent on the trans

I actually have a lot of old friends in the dc/md/va areas, nothing like some misha's coffee :)
 
stmotorsports said:
if you're running a b-series the crv trans is definitely the way to go since its got the beefy f/h series internals

whats this about a 5.33 ratio?

what happened to the rear anyways? did the clutch pack just give out or broken gears/diff/etc?

did your machine shop custom make you the phantoms for the front/rear?
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OOPs I edited the first post. The rear diff comes out to be a 2.533 ratio which puts it in very close to the civic wagovan's 2.526 rear drive ratio.
 
Well at a stand still with Mike Stafford. He has gotten himself into a little trouble with the law so my project 4WD EG6 goes unfinished. Gotta find a new Fab shop. Tired of the consistant Failure and brushing off. Im looking for a good shop if anyone knows where on is in the lancaster California area hit a brother up.
 
Since 2008 my vehicle has sat at Stafford Fabrication to have some custom automotive fabrication work done to the frame and engine suspension ects. Mike Stafford gladly accepted the job and during the course of the friendship I have had with Mr. Stafford I have tried to stay in constant communication with him for the updates to work progress to my car as well as updates as to when I will be able to make anther payment for parts and service. Mike Stafford has over that course of 21 months has managed to do minimal work to my car and due to storage the car was subjected to damage from a gate at the rear of his shop that had barbed wire hanging from the fencing rubbing up against my car, vandalism, theft of my personal equipment and parts supplied to complete the job order. Partial work completed to the car was paid in cash of 5700.00 cash with a receipt and 2500.00 dollars in exchange for a motor swap including a freshly rebuilt b16a block, b16a head, distributer, fuel injectors, fuel rail with pleasure regulator, pm6 Honda vtec ecu, and secondary obd 1 b16a1 intake manifold and an Integra LS transmission. I supplied Mike Stafford with parts that were stolen from his shop after he was arrested for minor offenses by his shop mechanics and friends who he allowed custody of a key to his shop when he wasn’t there to protect the precious materials that customers had supplied. Among these parts from my vehicle 1992 Honda Civic Hatchback I lost:

Earls 13 row Fuel Cooler, Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Pump, Aeromotive Fuel Preasure Gauge 0 to 100 psi, Aeromotive A13109 Fuel Preasure Regulator, -8 AN Fuel Line 15 FT, P28 Honda VTEC ECU, Earls -4 AN Clutch Slave Cylinder Braded Line, -4 AN Earls Rear Brake Lines, and a 1995 B18B1 LS Integra Manual Transmission, TD-44U OBD1 Honda Distributer, MSD 8.5mm Sparkplug Wires, NGK V power Spark Plugs all Stolen.

Parts That Stafford was supposed to Supply that were Paid for were:
T66 Turbo, Tial Waste gate 38mm, Custom Turbo Intercooler, 1000 CC Injectors low impedance Saturate, Custom Intercooler Piping, Hondata S300 ECU With the boost control option, Turbonetics Godzilla Blow off valve.

To my knowledge Mike Stafford is still in jail and will be there for the next 3 or 5 weeks awaiting another arraignment for bail. I have recovered my damaged car and what remained of my car parts and equipment except for the things mentioned in the above paragraph. I want to sue for the total cost of the Fabrication work, Pain and suffrage, and lost and stolen parts while in his custody. His families now since he has been detained are closing his shop down desperately calling all the registered owners of the cars still awaiting owners in the shop. Anthony Stafford has been very cooperative in getting me to my car to get my parts and pick up the shambles of his father’s professional life while he’s away but it does not excuse the fact that peoples parts are being stolen by any and everyone who walks in while he is away. Mike Stafford has single handedly destroyed 8 years of planning, saving, and time for me with my project. Thanx Mike you F@##$%&^!%^#***!!@@!
 
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