If the head or deck surfaces lose any metal before assembly, the dowel pins will need to be ground to compensate for adequate head gasket sealing. That's considered machining, as is the milling of the block deck or head. These aren't always necessary, it's more about the castings you start with, and how much "free" compression you want from doing it (if your internals can't make it exactly where you want it. This also goes for stuff like, piston\valve clearance, etc..)
I'm not entirely sure any crank work besides balancing\integrity type work really needs to be done. If you aren't shooting for over 300WHP, the OE piece will be fine if it's worked over prior to assembly.
Revs have a lot to do with a lot. There's harmonics, individual component\fastener capabilities, tuning.. it's not just something you can look at charts for and go, "hey! my stock b16a revs to 8,200rpms, why wouldn't it with a b18a bottom?"
One lesson that's proved itself endlessly is that ARP is here to stay. Rod bolts, head studs, you know the drill. I DARE say these SHOULD be considered necessary on even the most OE equivalent LSVTEC in history.
Of course, use a good head gasket, recommend Cometic, match it to the BLOCK (mostly we match stuff to the head when you are adding VTEC. An oil passage is the concern for this specific area, the lack of one on the B18\B20 makes it paramount to match the gasket to the block to prevent any leaking issues from a lack of gasket material in that location. this is why we plumb oil to the head)
Get yourself an oil sandwhich plate (cooler if you can while your at it, but lets focus on the sandwhich plate for now) so you can plumb an oil line to the head. The ENDYN "kit" is heavily recommended. I'd buy an oil pressure gauge at the same time and install it WITH this swap. It will work famously with the sandwhich plate. This is one of the MOST USEFUL GAUGES YOU CAN OWN (whereas, let's say, an A\F gauge is a COMPLETE waste of money, even if you drove around with a wideband 02 hooked up)
Naturally, the belt driven items need attention. Use the ITR\GSR water pump, ITR Oil pump (ENDYN can modify these for better performance), do NOT use a B16A timing belt (use an OE Honda belt for best results), even if that's your head, (GSR\ITR only), I'd also suggest some adj. cam gears (preferably Crower\ENDYN), have your crank pulley neutral balanced, or replace it with a Fluidampr, oy, my brain hurts, that's all for now!