Rod Bearing

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internet shit talking is for pussies.
respect your forum elders or gtfo.
 
true that, i just started this forum to ask s few ?'s i didnt know it was going to get out of hand lol
 
hope801 said:
internet shit talking is for pussies.
respect your forum elders or gtfo.
Click to expand...

I don't respect someone just because they made a account here first, or they have more post, or what not... I respect them if they respect me. Blanco wanted nothing to do with the way that I rebuilt my motor, and that's fine if he doesn't want to do his that way.

Then he decided to give neg rep and say that i didn't know anything about hondas, so I just had to show him that he didn't know what he was talking about either.


Back to the topic:

Do you know what caused the bearing to spin in the first place?

Since this probably isn't going to be a race motor, I would take apart the rod and check the crank and buy .010" rod bearings. If it looks bad, pull the crank. Bring your machinist the rods that you are going to use as well as the bearings and have him turn down the rod journals .010" on the crank. Might as well look over the rest of the motor and replace all the other bearings and seals while you are there, as well and rough up the cylinder walls with a hone and throw in some new rings.

Reassemble and enjoy!
 
I have a honda in the parking lot that shows that my way works.

Hard to argue with a rebuild and new trans and clutch all for less then $700.

And find me somewhere that says that honda coats their cranks if you are so right.
 
Still waiting for that link... I didn't expect you to come through.

It doesn't matter how you do it, in the end you have a a board with a nail in it.

My way works just fine.
 
I like... it's like watching a car accident...

I just love when people dig themselves the biggest hole in the world and end up eating crow... it's fucking great :D
 
Blanco said:
Hahaha. Dude, no doubt.

Just another n00b who feels the need to build his rep against me. At least it's been awhile.

By the way, dipshit n00b. Trade secrets aren't often publicized. That's why I told you to call a professional shop. ;)
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LMFAO!! WTF are you talking about. If it's a trade secret, Honda would have it, not some shop. And the only thing that you might not be able to find if it's a trade secret is the makeup of the coating and how they put it on there.

Finding a link that says that Honda coats their cranks should be out there... asssuming that they actually do it
 
I'll just say that Caboose's way will work, however it's not the optimum way for Hondas...

So in a sense, Blanco could be considered 'more correct' when both people are correct :ph34r:

I'm just gonna go grab some:
1911-popcorn-group.jpg
 
I will have to 100% agree with Blanco on this one. I bought my LS from a guy, told me ah yeah had it rebuilt, new breings pistons all that jazz. Well a month later it spins a bearing and spits a rod through the block. I pull it apart, new pistons, check, new bearings, check. They where ACL .010 over bearings. Seems that that the guy had the crank turned, slapped the bearings in and then BOOM! Here is the link if you dont believe me, https://hondaswap.com/hybrid-ed-ef-da/trashed-motor-111061/ There goes my swap. Thanks Blanco I learned something today.
 
Why does everyone think that Honda's designs are inferior to aftermarket designs?

Why are ACL bearings refered to as "ACL Race Bearings"?

Who has more R&D money? Yeah.
 
Blanco said:
There are standard ACL and ACL Race bearings. The Race bearings have a wider clearance and even builders who use ACL won't recommend the Race bearings for street engines.
Click to expand...

Ah, I didn't know there were two different grades. I'd only ever heard about the race bearings.

On a sidenote, I tried to explain to this local guy that he didn't need to buy an aftermarket crank for his LS, and that he didn't need to buy ACL Race bearings if he didn't want to rebuild his engine every couple hundred miles. He didn't believe me, and guess what.
 
Blanco said:
You're very welcome.

I remember that topic. That engine was fuuuuucked up.
Click to expand...

That is an understatment, the GF is always telling me to take the mauled up pistons off the self in the livingroom.:D And I would have repped you for the A+ info, but I need to spread it around.
 
caboose said:
Nitrate is a hardness coating not low friction right?
Click to expand...

I was just reading something the other day about a motorcycle racer that treated his crank with a process or chemical similar to Mikronite, and they disqualified him saying the coating provided less friction and helped keep a film of oil on his crank, allowing for reduced friction. Let me see if I can find the link.

FIRST PERSON/OPINION: The Strange Case Of SPRO Henny Ray Abrams, Part Three News Article // RoadracingWorld.com

Granted, this is considered an opinion article, but someone can incorporate fact to come up with their opinion. They listed all their sources, and much of what he has said regarding the results of the team's work was also published by another source, however, I can't find that link.

And before you go off and say I am comparing apples to oranges, just take a look. Hell, even Google it. I am sure you can find a dozen articles on the chemicals used or the process used to harden/reduce friction on a crankshaft. I am simply responding to the hardening and reduced friction comment you made, nothing else.
 
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I'm actually looking into this hardness coating thing, I always thought that friction was more of a result of surface finish. I've requested some information from the university library and I'll share what I find here when I get it.

I did find some stuff that said that some people had issues with machining honda cranks... but there have been people that had some success too, so it's hard to draw a definitive conclusion. It would be interesting to build one up to study and see what happens.

Does anyone know if heat treating is a valid alternative? Seems like heat treating would allow you to increase the overall strength of the crank.

I also heard that you shouldn't knife edge a honda crank... what's the reasoning behind that?
 
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