Slotted / Crossdrilled Rotors - BS or not

[Aquariust]

I know they are both well proven in racing, but are they good for daily drivers. I've never heard anything bad about cross drilled rotors, but I've heard sloted rotors eat up pads.

Any insight?

 

[E_SolSi]

this topic gets beaten up about every other week in the brakes / suspension forum

basicly if you use GOOD quality parts blank rotors are the best for you

my sugested setup is as follows
for mostly road course / autoX use with daily driving
rotors -- Brembo Blanks
pads -- Hawk HP+
lines -- goodridge stainless braided
fluid -- ATE super blue (aka: smurf jiz)

for mostly street with some track / autoX
rotors -- Brembo Blanks
pads -- Hawk HPS
lines -- goodridge stainless braided
fluid -- ATE super blue (aka: smurf jiz)

i run the HP+... they are VERY agressive... they are noisy and chew through rotors faster than a fat bitch chews through donuts... there is a LOT of dust, but its not pad dust its actually rotor "dust"... but when repeatedly slowing from 120mph to 60 over and over for 25 - 30 min i have yet to experience brake fade with this setup

the HPS are less agressive ... dont dust as much ... arent noisy... and still offer GREAT stopping power

heres a few llinks to help you out

https://hondaswap.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=21309

https://hondaswap.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=28388


moving this topic to the proper forum

 

[B16]

another good choice is the ferodo pads (what i'm running now), similar to the hawk hp+'s

 

[sportlinecrx]

what kid of rotors would be best if i do alot of downhill braking at 70mph? my mechanic suggested slotted rotors because i am warping my rotors like every 2 months. my current rotors are beyond truing beccause they already have alot of worn spots.

 

[E_SolSi]

i suggest brembo blank rotors for pretty much any use ... the only thing that changes is the recomended pads for the specific driving style

warping rotors is RARELY due to the rotors themselves (unless its just a really shitty rotor that has a lot of inconsistencies in its composition)
rotors usually warp because you dont give them proper time to cool off

if you have been on the brakes hard then drive for a little while (about a mile or so) without using the brakes at all, or as little as possible

when the rotors are hot and you simply stop the car then the rotors cool unevenly (the exposed portion cools quicker than the part covered by the caliper/pads)... this causes warping

ive also heard unevenly torquing your rims might also contribute to warping

 

[sportlinecrx]

my problem is i drive down this long steep hill everyday where everyone wants to go 80 and then suddenly everyone up ahead is stopped! so i eat up my brakes going from 80 to zero down that hill everyday. i try to start braking early, but then assholes in big SUVs tailgate you and i dont want them to end up in my hatch when i have to brake.

 

[E_SolSi]

what are you currently running for rotors?
and what pads are you using too

 

[sportlinecrx]

crappy cheapass OEM replacements

 

[asmallsol]

Try making brake ducts. Very cheap and easy to do. Basicly just zipties and dryer ducts. I have even seen pictures of an actual spoon race integra typeR with them. Just have one end pointing towards your rotors, the other either in a hole in your bumper (place for fog light, grill, ect) or under your bumper if there is enough room. Also, another cause could be that your pads heat up, you stop, but your still on a hill, so you press your brakes so you dont hit the person infront of you, then your hot pads just stay on one part of your rotor, causing them to wrap. Try to use your brakes less at that hill by just down shifting to slow down a little. Then once your engine braking has done its job, brake with your brakes.