Smoking Engine

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So I get my car (B16 in 92 hatch) with a newly installed rev hard stage 2 turbo. Take if for a few spins and it was okay. Fourth spin, my engine stalls and there is smoke from under my hood. After we let it cool down, we can start the engine, but have to hold on the gas for it to stay on. Once the gas is released, it stalls. A technician told me that he thinks that I melted the rings and the engine can not hold the compression. Any ideas as to what has happened, what I should do and how much it would cost? Thanks.
honda motors are usually stronger than this...unless your air/fuel ratio was really bad and you detonated, melting a hole in your piston.

give us more information, check your spark plugs, check your compression, check your timing...then if your compression is low you'll have to open up the motor.

bad tuning high revving = detonation with a turbo setup
If I detonated, wouldn't that mean that I can't drive my car or it won't start? I can still drive the car, but if I don't press on the gas, it will stall.
i would not contnue to drive it. you are probably only doing more damage to it than anything else.
Does the car smoke ALOT of smoke? When i first installed my turbo and we had it at 11 psi on an FMU setup (bad idea) we burned two pistons...

There was a hole directly through to the crankcase, and it was smoking worse than GOD when I drove it to storage to start pulling it apart.

:spin: :angry: :spin:
The fmu setup was a bad idea or the 11 psi or both? What did you do to fix the problem? Any other ideas, guys? Thanks.
i had to rebuild. I don't like FMU's at all. 11 PSI would have been fine with my z-Dyne like I've got now.

Fuel's tuned to 15 PSI, and kicking ass ;)

Just gotta get the timing tuned on the dyno soon.
I was wrong. There was blow by and the compression is
cyl #1 180 psi
cyl #2 50 psi
cyl #3 70 psi
cyl #4 90 psi

If I was to redo my bottom end, is there anything else I should do other than low compression pistons, rods and rings? I heard something about main bearings??? Or should this be fine?

How much in labour, or hours does it take to remove and replace pistons, rods and rings?

Also, what is the compression supposed to be in the cylinders?
compression isn't supposed to be ANYTHING. it's the varriance that is the big deal... less than 10% difference is ideal.

I don't know the answers to any other questions you have
if youre getting less than half the compression in a cylinder you really fucked your shit man. you cant get a good estimate of the damage you did until you tear apart the motor. since youll have to tear it apart anyway, its a good idea to replace the bearings.
just as an idea here are the numbers from my compression test
#1: 235
#2: 235
#3: 235
#4: 225

the only reason #4 is lower is because i have a valve guide going out. i hate to say it but you fucked your world dude.