Some questions about boost for F22

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When I talked to chris I asked him for a price for the DIY chip kit, datalogging and the burn1. He said I should go with the Ostrich then I dont have to keep burning chips. I can just tune and burn on the fly.

Edit:
Now I get it, I just got a email back from Chris again. It fakes a chip is there so I can tune and drive. Then save the map and burn it to a chip with the burn1. Awesome stuff mang!!! :)
 
Last edited:
Edit:
Now I get it, I just got a email back from Chris again. It fakes a chip is there so I can tune and drive. Then save the map and burn it to a chip with the burn1. Awesome stuff mang!!! :)
i think the ostrich has some ridiculous life expectancy, so if you're not tuning other hondas you can just use the ostrich as your chip, but it'd prob be cleaner to just save and burn...
you can even burn a couple chips if you have the easy insertion socket, have one for daily, and one for buring the doors off someone

*cough* rep points *cough* :p
 
I "can". My buddy has a Mustang Dyno in the back of his shop. He charges me 30 and hour with no setup charges or anything crazy like that. I know the Mustangs are always off for numbers, but it can put a load on the rollers so I can just tune with it. I use the Power/TQ numbers mostly for refrence.

My trix @5.5psi with a T25 turbo made 175whp and 182wtq. Thats with a stock auto box too :)

How do I get you some rep man, you've done your work and then some in my eyes.
 
rep = click on the little white scales under a person's username...

so uh... whats your zip code...
i don't have the $$$ for all the tuning equipment, but i'm running check valves and an FMU...
i'm wondering how far you are from me...
i would guess about 2.5 hours if you're in the poconos
 
Yeppers, I'm in the Pocono area. about 10mins from the Water Gap Bridge.
18301.
 
I'll let you know when I get her all tuned up and I know crome pro like the back of me hand :)

I still cant figure out the rep power thing, DAMN I SUCK LOL!
Do you mean to click the Itrader 0 and then give you feedback?
 
nah, its the middle of the bottom three things in the box with your username
the first is a green light saying your online status
the second is the reputation scale
and the third is a exclamation to report a bad post...

if you click the scales it should add rep points, but it takes 24 hours to get in the system or something like that
 
OH DEAR, I'm stupid ROFL!!! I kept reading the "scales" part and it didnt click until just now that you meant a literal scale pic. I thought you meant the lil empty block next to the rep power. And that your scale was low still. Sorry bout that :)
 
lol, its all good...
so did you find the area in Crome to select which map sensor you're using?
did you get the map sensor yet?
and did you ever pull that code to see if thats what it was?
 
I can almost guarantee without even looking its the map sensor. I was driving it a lil bit yestrday, everytime it breaks out of 10psi the CEL comes on. Yeah, I found the area to change the sensor too. Crome is NICE :D Thanks or turning me on to it!!

I'm going to buy a map sensor in the next day or so. The Chip kit and all is on its way, only 1 day for shipping too. I MAY get it tomorrow but if not, def by the weekend.

I listd my emanageI had for it FS on the Toyo sites I'm on. I have a few maps I made for FI 1zz motors and NA 2zz motors. Anyone who buys it will get a nice tuned map for their app :) FYI: 1zz is lower comp, lower rev limit, lower power. 2zz is HIGH CR, 8400 rev limit and higher power.
 
so did you dyno or track the accord?
any numbers?
did it pull nicely?
just don't rev the F22 out too high as it doesn't have such a well balanced lower end and the head isn't meant for it...
but that lower end should hold lot of boost :)
you do the headgasket yet? head studs?
i think the motor will start showing its weaknesses as soon as you turn the boost up
 
I have only driven it around a lil bit. Its definately not tuned to a point I would want to try and race or dyno it. Once i get the thing tuned it will be tracked regularly. I only bought this car to race. I paid 250 for it with a blown tranny. I fixed it up and started modding it.

I revved it to only 6K when I was testing it out. I'm thinking about doing a thicker headgasket and then ARP studs and maybe something different with the head. Not too sure yet.

Does the h22 head fit on the F22 bottom end?

A short vid of it driving a lil, http://www.nicksturbomatrix.com/f22new.3gp
When I first start to take off I'm throttling it a bit holding it at 5 psi. Then just before 70 you'll hear it pick up even more when I hit 10psi.
 
Does the h22 head fit on the F22 bottom end?
this is a good question
the general concensus is no it doesn't fit easily...
but if you search on honda-tech, i think there are a few guys who have done the conversion...
and they are in your shoes... boosting, want the DOHC vtec, but like the F series for their strong lower ends
there is a pretty complete write up on it but i think its only recommended if you can get machine work done fairly cheaply...
i'll see if i can find it for you

another nice alternative for you would be the F22 sohc vtec head...
i believe its bolt on, and offers 20 hp increase with the higher vtec lobes
and those lobes should be nice under boost, but it might be a little tricky to tune unless you are used to tuning 2 cam profiles...?
 
people have mated both H22 and H23 heads to F series blocks...

i would specifically look into the F22 w/ H22 head for some decent boost on stock internals...

i have no links on the subject at hand, but i think honda tech had a huge write up

most people say you need massive machining etc etc etc and its not worth it, but this guy seemed to be able to do it pretty cheap as i remember, but he also did all the work himself...

whats involved in the "work" i don't know without re-reading the thread on honda tech
my post from january 2006
 
the f22 has the same crank and rods as the h23, just a smaller bore of 85, the cyclinders are also cast iron
from the link above
f22 sleeves are the shit :)
 
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