Swap Complete - but I need more power

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What about a supercharger? Jackson makes a kit, sells for somewhere in the neighborhood of $2500. You can snag em used for pretty cheap if you keep an eye out. But that'll give you boost throughout the rpm range and torque to boot.
 
pauls81sc said:
Calesta you freakin ROCK. It's so refreshing to have some actually READ the post, really understand what I'm looking for, and lay out an intelligent, experienced reply.

LSVTEC was my phase 2 from the get go and that's what it's gonna be. And as far as doing it right goes, that is not a problem. As stated before I just didnt swap an LS in. That thing has been decked, bored, and honed with new bearings, seals, gaskets, and o-rings. I replaced the pistons, the rings, and the pins. The head was resurfaced and rebuilt. And more. I did everything I could (in my rookie mind) to build it to last.

I'll start doing some thorough research on the LSVTEC build and raising some coin to make it happen. I've got parts for sale from my swap which will be listed in the For Sale forums. I've got the D16 motor w/ JG Camshafts, a DC Header, transmission, shift linkage, a couple extra B18 intake manifolds and more.

Besides the ARP rod bolts is there anything else you recommend for reliability?
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Wow. It sounds like you were pretty thorough when you rebuilt the engine! Maybe you want to wait on the rod bolts... to install them properly, you need to have the rods out of the engine, take them to a machine shop, install the bolts and stretch them, then resize the big-end bore of your rod to make it round again. So unless you want to rip apart the bottom end again, just leave the bolts alone. You'll be fine if you did it right the first time you put it all together.

Other recommendations for reliability- just don't cut corners.

Blanco said:
Feel very fortunate he did your research for you, he's a very busy man. :)

Now I'd say it's on you to use the site's resources. If you want to know how to build a reliable LS/VTEC the best place to start is with the article in the Reference Section.
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The tech articles are definitely a good place to start.
 
Megasquirt and Turbo...

:)Still learning about Honda's, so if there is something else out there other then megasquirt from Vemon, AEM, etc then look into those also(and let me know the others:p).
 
The Honda ECUs are very hackable now, so it's actually better to modify the fuel and timing maps resident on the original ECU.
 
Tap a hole in the block, thread in knock sensor, run wires to ECU. Some years of blocks had knock sensors, some didn't- same with the ECUs, so if you have support for it on one or the other, it's usually nice to add it. All of the standalone ECU setups support knock sensors too.
 
k 20 is a 2 litre engine its pretty much top right now its backwards tho look at some pics, and for more power turbo all the way bro...
 
Calesta said:
Tap a hole in the block, thread in knock sensor, run wires to ECU. Some years of blocks had knock sensors, some didn't- same with the ECUs, so if you have support for it on one or the other, it's usually nice to add it. All of the standalone ECU setups support knock sensors too.
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Look at my lil mopar self, learning already!
 
DESPAIN said:
What is the k20 motor?
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INJEN78 said:
wow,thats actually kind of shocking

they come in the 1994 honda civic sx,theyre pretty quick
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:lmao: Great freakin' answer! hahaha I'd rep you if I could.

Blanco said:
Spend $1500 on a turbo/tune and make 250whp.
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:werd: and then some. :D

Calesta said:
Tap a hole in the block, thread in knock sensor, run wires to ECU. Some years of blocks had knock sensors, some didn't- same with the ECUs, so if you have support for it on one or the other, it's usually nice to add it. All of the standalone ECU setups support knock sensors too.
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Hmm, this might be something I may need to know for my second build.
 
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