Swapping D16Z6 (93 ex) into 91 hatch std.

[prpprimo]

So here are some progress pix. Just about done with all wiring except for VTEC and the 4 wires required to complete the MPFI conversion. (2 for the distributor / CPS & 2 for the additional injector wires) Out with the old and in with the new on ECU's. Also pictured is rywires conversion harness....I installed a 4 pin quick disconnect plug so it looks as close to factory as possible and for easy detachment for any future swaps.

 

[prpprimo]

Everything wired up and complete. The engine starts and idles rough (misfire). During acceleration the engine stumbles and wants to stall. Triple checked injector and distributor wiring. Everything appears to be wired correctly. I attempted to adjust timing with the dist. and it made no difference. Lets hear it from experienced members. post your knowledge.

 

[prpprimo]

or not.:violin:

 

[ezcruiser]

Hey I may be able to help you troubleshoot some.
Do you have a tachometer, if so is it going crazy? Check injector pulse lately? might pay off to have a set of injector test lights like these: Harbor Freight Tools Any smoke coming out the exhaust? When it stumbles or misfires under load does it backfire ever? Can you smell raw gas out the exhaust?

 

[prpprimo]

ezcruiser,..thanks for your reply. at one point the engine was doing every thing you mentioned, it turned out to be a timing issue which I have yet to completely fix. Now it starts up, idles good and revs good until about 2500 to 3k then it hits an early rev limit. I actually started another thread for this symptom, but if you have any ideas, Im all ears/eyes.

 

[ezcruiser]

Hey, checked out the hybrid thread. Sounds like the car is in limp mode. Do a reset. Then if problem is still there change to another dizzy. You didn't happen to pressure wash the engine or anything did you?
Also curious if the EG ever threw a CEL?

 

[K2e2vin]

I had thought of something at work, but forgot what it was. Had something to do with the O2 I believe.

 

[INJEN78]

go back and check the timing,to see if its at TDC and the cam is aligned,then if it is,take the cap off the dizzy and see where the rotor is pointed,if its on i believe #1 then try anoother dizzy...but also take the hazard fuse out of the box under the hood

 

[prpprimo]

Checked timing on the cam gear, looks good. Lined up the single notch on the crank pulley with the notch on the timing belt cover backing. Cam gear. The mark labled "top" points at 12 o clock, the 3 and 9 o clock timing marks sit level with the top of the head, and the 7 o clock timing mark lines up with the timing belt plastic cover backing. The engine idles great and revs great unitil around 2500rpm, 3k max. Pulls good until this early rev limit. I actually even drove it around the neighborhood like it is. With this in mind I dont think timing could be that far off. ( a skipped belt tooth) could it? Ive heard of this similar symptom in conjunction with vtec. More research in progress, and as always more pointers appreciated.

 

[INJEN78]

try a differant ecu.. when i swapped my civic i kept going back and fourth bewteen my pm6 and pr4 and everytime i did this the codes went away 1 by 1,,but also remember to full the hazard fuse to reset

 

[prpprimo]

I actually also did that. swapped with another p28..I put my p28 in the other eg, worked great. I am resetting the ecu by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Same function as pulling the hazard fuse, right. There must be a cutoff somewhere, maybe as a safety feature to not allow it past 2500rpm. I thought maybe a fuel pressure issue, but it actaully increases as the rpms rise like it is supposed to.

???

 

[INJEN78]

your def. running in limp mode,check all of your connections again

 

[prpprimo]

Limp mode? dude..the biscuits limp when the night is over...

Alright here is the outcome after days & days of cursing..

Diz wires need shielding! There was a write up on d-series.org where a guy stated that diz wires "should" be shielded. I thought nothing of it, until today. Its crazy, thoughts pop in my head outta no where with this, just like doc brown did with the fluks capacitor. What mainly brought me to this conclusion is aside from the early rev limit, injector 3 was shorting out.
Put 2 n 2 together, and bam! electro magentic short, as all 4 wires I added for the conversion were all taped tight in one loom. Separated them, fired it up, it runs sweet!

After takin it for a hall, I discovered my clutch & pilot bearing are shot! ...so its time for a tranny drop

 

[prpprimo]

final product.

 

[INJEN78]

looks like a factory job,,and i have the same intake,,good job bro

 

[LILBLKCRXSI]

hi i've been following your proggress and i'd like to ask you something about the vacum hoses on the intake manifold, how did u know what went where, that's the only thing that's stopping me from going ahead with my swap(only means of transp so i gotta get it right in a wekend) . thanks.

 

[INJEN78]

look at the underhood diagrams of both vacuum layouts,,piece it together really,if something dosnt work first swap the hoses until it does

 

[prpprimo]

The vacuum hoses was the easiest part of the swap. The mains were the fuel pressure regualtor and fuel return system/canister. Just mark them when removing your engine. They are all certain lengths and only so many places they can go. I actually got rid of the old orange hoses and swapped with black. Much cleaner appearance. Looking at my engine comp you would never guess it was swapped.

Take your time and do it right if your going to do it. I have seen many hack jobs out there.

 

[prpprimo]

OK..so after a few months of driving the motor a little harder than I should(threw a rod bearing), I ended up swapping this z6 with a Y8.

 

[INJEN78]

damn,id prefer te z6 but its all good