synthetic vs regular oil

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some good info there B! I like the myths. How reliable was that source on the myths? Either or I am gonna run synthetic because of the turbo!
i think the most i will ever go to sythentic is a 50/50 blend....

how reliable? unsure- just findings on the web...
From all the reading I've done about synthetics vs. dino oil
I'd have to say they each serve a purpose. they probably protect an engine just as well as each other. dino will break done at higher temps than synthetics. Honestly I think sythetics were made for the same reason platnium plugs were made, they last longer. so a maufacturer can get longer life out of an oil reducing maintanence for it's cutomers.
But I'd have to say that the best oil to use is a multigrade oil and prolly a mixture of a sythetic and dino oil. maybe not 50/50. but from what some of the articles read. it sounds like that's what "sythetic" oils have become a sythetic base with petroleum based oil as well.
and if your after a true sythetic it looks like Amsoil is hte way to go.
Synthetics were prolly also created to easy the supply of crude oil. so we can generate gas for our auto's until some other means of feul is either dicovered or created.
hey who knows maybe we'll see synthetic petrol one of these days
but of course this is only my .02
dino oil comes from the ground. its dirty before you put it in your car.

synthetic is manmade. it doesnt come with the impurities that dino oil already has.

ive personally always used synthetic in my normal, daily-driven cars.
but street/strip cars ive always used dino oil.. synthetic just LOOKS weak. and dino oil is proven so i trust it more under high stress conditions..
...there should be no question about this. If you care about your engine use synthetic oil, and on the other hand, if you really dont give a shit, use regular.

A typical "boil off point" for regular oil is 375 degrees F

A typical "boil off point" for synthetic is 525 degrees F

Look at the pictures below (from calesta's profile) and take a wild guess why the rods are broken and fucking WELDED to the crank.
This would probably not have happened if this guy was using synthetic. He was producing more horsepower than the rod bearings were designed to support, so they got hotter and hotter until they reached 375 degrees and all the oil boiled off, and the bearings welded themselves to the rods, and the crank continued on its normal rotation, which broke all the rods.

Whoa you didn't have to link the large size picture... I changed it up to show the thumbnail with a clickable large pic. This will also decrease bandwidth load on HS and on my server. That is a damn nice picture though, if I do say so myself!

not only does synthetic have a higher boiling point, but it also has a lower coefficient of friction, which means there is less heat to build up in the first place. This also means that your rings will last longer because less metal is being scraped off onto the cylinder walls, which means your engine will go longer without burning oil, which means more time between rebuilds.

The pistons are also cooled by your you add it up. Synthetic might not make much of a difference in your grandmas car. But the way we drive, it is an absolute MUST. We put a hell of a lot more stress on engines then they were designed for, so you need an oil that can handle the increased temperatures associated with those stresses.
Actually I think calesta said that was just some exhibit sitting at the shop where he got his swap done. I'll bet you they tried for hours to get those top two rods off, but I'd imagine its pretty hard when they are welded to the crank.

Anyways now that I'm thinking about it, I have a few more arguments for synthetic.

Since synthetic has a lower coefficient of friction, and is scraping less metal off the cylinder walls, you also are increasing your time between oil changes. You might pay twice as much for the oil, but you only have to change it half as much.

If you can't afford a full synthetic oil change (10 bucks more), at least do a 50/50. That way, when the dino oil boils off of your crank, you still have that synthetic there lubricating for you.
SOAR- awesome on using my page's pics for a reference. And you're right- that's NOT my crank... that was just a crankshaft sitting in a tub when I was there at the shop one time. My engine is still in great shape. I keep the oil levels in check constantly, and feed it synthetic only. I might have to try some Redline out for a while though, after reading that Honda-Tech thread. That thing was LONG!

One note- my friend who works at the Honda dealership says that they use Quaker State for normal customer oil changes, and Redline synthetic for the S2000s.
Originally posted by SnailOnARampage@Oct 23 2002, 04:08 PM
thanks for editing the size of the pic...i was too lazy to find the address of your thumbnail :)

Hey- all you gotta do is right click on the thumbnail, then click on 'properties' in the menu.
yes, good info, i've been using redline synthetic since day 1. my autoshop teacher turned me to it 6 years ago, he sweared by it, so i started using it then. also, the manufacuring company is on the same street as my work, in benicia ca... hehe, i've met the owner, he is friends with the owner of my company. many race cars use redline also, it is good stuff, i def reccomend it :)
Well considering I started this arguement on another thread here a few days ago I have been using syntec blend for 5 days now and I can't really tell a diffenence. Maybe its just me or hasn't been long enough to tell a difference.
Okay, I take it that the same (with the boiling points and shit) would go for a manual trans? I've got a Y21 and have not yet put oil in the engine or trans due to not having funds to "complete" my swap yet (its all I lack). Trans calls for 10w30, Just wondering if synthetic in the trans is a good idea as well...