The car that its going into makes a huge difference. You want to stay with your OBD or you're going to have a bitch of a wiring job to hook up the engine.
b18b LS -145hp/127tq (OBD 1) -Non-VTEC
b18c1 GSR -180hp/126tq (OBD 1 & 2 -I think, could be wrong-not 0) -VTEC
b18c5 Type R -200hp/134tq (OBD 2 -I think, could be wrong-not 0) -VTEC
Obviously the one with the most hp and tq will be faster.
--I personally say go b16a SiR1 if your car is OBD 0 because its easy (supposedly) and has almost perfectly square geometry (same bore and stroke, makes a very reliable engine). It is also the cheapest option. (~$3000 if you do the swap yourself for EVERYTHING) Its downfall is its smaller displacement causing it to make less torque. Its a good starting place, you could always drop in a bigger bottom end if the 111 ft*lbs of torque is getting you down.
not necessarily, you have to take power/weight ratio into account.
for example,
I've been beaten by a single cam vtec eg coupe before my turbo kit was installed. the eg was gutted and had basic bolt ons, intake, header and exhaust. he was also on cheater slicks. he beat my friend's gsr a while back too.
so it's not always the car with the most hp and tq that wins.
no shit shirlock, but hes only putting ONE engine in ONE car, so the one with the most hp/tq in the same car will be faster. I figured that went without saying (common sense) but i guess not...
Originally posted by ktanaka@Feb 4 2004, 05:16 PM no shit shirlock, but hes only putting ONE engine in ONE car, so the one with the most hp/tq in the same car will be faster. I figured that went without saying (common sense) but i guess not...
then be more specific next time, don't post a half assed response and assume all people will know everything you neglected to mention like power to weight ratios. he is here to learn so fill him in.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.