Which Oil Do You Use?

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chet

Senior Member
i run castrol gtx, with an OEM Honda oil filter.

just interested in everyone elses oil of choice...
 

BigJ

I'm just about that action Boss.
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castrol? I run full synthetic from jiffy with oem filter...doing full engine clean every change..which is about every 2k...meh bro works at jiffy lube so I get it for pretty much cost if manager is there but if he isn't I get it for free. they way to go!
 

asmallsol

Super Moderator
OEM filters suck for synto oil, you might as well be running a hollowed out filter. Syntho oils need a filter with a finer media, a normal filter with a media designed for normal oil will just let the oil and the debris pass through the media unfiltered. You need to buy a special filter designed for a syntho oil. Same way with normal oil, if you use a syntho filter with normal oil, the oil particles will not be able to fit through the tiny media causeing a lose in oil pressure.

I will use what is ever cheapest out of Valvoline, Mobile or Castrol (castrol if they are all the same price) with an OEM filter
 

Havok

Senior Member
Originally posted by chet@Feb 10 2003, 07:58 PM
I run castrol gtx, with an OEM Honda oil filter.

Hit the nail on the head there, no synthetic for me.
 

BigJ

I'm just about that action Boss.
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lol thanks for the tip...I never heard of that but yeah I will have em put a better filter on next time I get one(next week prolly). I hear for high end race applications they run an oil called royal purple and I also have heard from one tech guy that it will increase horsepower for high rpm motors and what not. Is this true?
 

asmallsol

Super Moderator
People on here have said that when you put it in it is purple but when it comes out it is not, i dont even want to think of where the color goes. Yea, get a synthedic filter (not sure what brands are good, never wanted synthedic oil) but they will be more expensive, close to 10 a peice.
 

B16

Super Moderator
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never heard of a synthetic oil filter, the regular oem one works fine, and i do check my oil on a very regular basis, never had issues with it seeming to be dirty or "unfiltered". i use redline 5w30 full syn with the blue oem honda oil filter, been running this way for over 70,000 miles... no issues at all...
 

BigJ

I'm just about that action Boss.
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I hae another oil question. My mechanic guy that does a lot of work for my dad using all oem and factory stuff says that when the engine gets more and more miles you should bump to a bigger or heavier oil like a 10-40 or even a 20-50w when they are over 120k. Is this true? he said this because the original 5-30w is meant for when they are new and they break down and get worn out and what not? is this true or just kind of food for thought?
 

phunky.buddha

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Originally posted by Slammed89Integra@Feb 10 2003, 10:42 PM
I hae another oil question. My mechanic guy that does a lot of work for my dad using all oem and factory stuff says that when the engine gets more and more miles you should bump to a bigger or heavier oil like a 10-40 or even a 20-50w when they are over 120k. Is this true? he said this because the original 5-30w is meant for when they are new and they break down and get worn out and what not? is this true or just kind of food for thought?

Only if your engine is starting to wear out and you need the heavier oil to seal up the larger gaps... not a good thing. :lol: If your engine starts to run rough or noisy on the normal oil weight, try the next weight combination up- otherwise use what's spec'd out for the engine from the factory.

I run Mobil1 Synthetic 10w30 with OEM Honda filters- will be using Redline in the new build. Like B16- I never had a problem running synthetic with the OEM filters, and nobody else I know has either. I'm thinking of going to a remote mount cartridge oil filter system though... more filtration, more oil flow throughput, and easier filter changeout.
 

SnailOnARampage

Senior Member
I think I already wrote like a 3 page post on why synthetic is so much better than dino oil. Here's a summary if anyone cares:

1. synthetic's boiling point is about 200 degrees higher than dyno oil... and why does this matter? 99 pecent of the rods that end up in the header end up there because the crankshaft/rod bearings get too hot and the oil boils off of it and they get welded together. Take a look at calesta's profile to see a pic of a crank that could have been saved with synthetic oil. I dunno about you, but I'd rather take my chances at a boiling point of 550 degrees rather than 375.

2. synthetic oil has a lower coefficent of friction...which means less heat build up due to friction and less wear on your rings/other lubricated parts. dont believe me? go buy a new car and see how long it takes to brake in using synthetic.

3. You only need to change synthetic oil about half as much as regular oil. Why is this? It is because with synthetic your engine parts are not wearing as quickly...filling up your oil with debris.
 

SnailOnARampage

Senior Member
How many people do you guys know that have blown up motors? If you know anyone that has go ask them whether they were running synthetic or dino oil. Im willing to bet anyone who has ever bent or broken a rod was running dino oil.
 

phunky.buddha

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I totally agree... dino oil is fine for stock engines with bolt-ons, but start upping the compression and the piston speeds and you really need to look into something better.

To SOAR's points:

1. My head runs pretty hot because of the high compression and high revs combined with the long stroke... so dino oil just burns away. I tried a dino oil (Valvoline VR-1 Racing) and I torched one quart in 100 miles. Synthetic didn't do that. My new build with oil squirters will be a little more oil friendly though.

2. Lower friction is good. No crude with additives here for me... you could almost feel the drag in the engine with dino oil, and you can definitely hear the difference. Hell, my girlfriend's untrained ears told her to say "it sounds different- not quite right" when I fired up the engine after the VR1 went in.

3. Yup. The dino oil came out that same night. The rest of the VR1 case was given to the guy who recommended it, since he claimed it made his stock GSR engine run smoother. Never mind that the engine was always breaking down... Change your oil less often with synthetic- or just change it at the recommended interval because your engine is that much more abusive to the oil.

:lol:
 

phunky.buddha

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Originally posted by SnailOnARampage@Feb 11 2003, 02:53 AM
How many people do you guys know that have blown up motors? If you know anyone that has go ask them whether they were running synthetic or dino oil. Im willing to bet anyone who has ever bent or broken a rod was running dino oil.

Right. Also, ask anyone running an aftermarket turbo setup on their engine... are they running dino oil or synthetic? Almost all of them are running synthetic...
 

SnailOnARampage

Senior Member
Even if you are not going to run pure synthetic, at least run a 50/50 blend. That way, when your crank/rod bearings get hot due to extra horsepower created by a turbo and they approach 375 farenheit and all that dino oil starts boiling off, at least there will be some synthetic there to keep it lubricated.
 

phunky.buddha

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Originally posted by SnailOnARampage@Feb 11 2003, 03:06 AM
Even if you are not going to run pure synthetic, at least run a 50/50 blend. That way, when your crank/rod bearings get hot due to extra horsepower created by a turbo and they approach 375 farenheit and all that dyno oil starts boiling off, at least there will be some synthetic there to keep it lubricated.

Dino oil, not dyno oil. :lol:

You have to be really careful when buying synthetic blends too- there's no real rule as to what percentage of synthetic oil they need to have in the mix to call it a "blend". For all you know, it could be 10% synthetic and 90% normal stuff.
 

SnailOnARampage

Senior Member
Originally posted by Calesta+Feb 11 2003, 02:13 AM-->
SnailOnARampage
@Feb 11 2003, 03:06 AM
Even if you are not going to run pure synthetic, at least run a 50/50 blend. That way, when your crank/rod bearings get hot due to extra horsepower created by a turbo and they approach 375 farenheit and all that dyno oil starts boiling off, at least there will be some synthetic there to keep it lubricated.

Dino oil, not dyno oil. :lol:

You have to be really careful when buying synthetic blends too- there's no real rule as to what percentage of synthetic oil they need to have in the mix to call it a "blend". For all you know, it could be 10% synthetic and 90% normal stuff.

Oh come on havent you ever heard of a "dynosaur"?
 
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