My new 2010 Subaru WRX

copypasta from NASIOC. my changes on my setup between the tunes is in red. biggest difference between the two is the tuner and the temperature. but i've listed SAE corrected numbers to help account for the temp difference.

UPDATE!! Tune #2 with Cleo (+40,000mi on engine build)

DATE: March 2nd, 2015
Event: dyno pull
Location: IAG Performance, Westminster, MD
Ambient Temp: 48 F
Elevation: ~700ft
Weather: partly cloudy, humidity on graph

Car: 2010 WRX
Tuner: Cleo
Dyno Info: DynoJet
Transmission: stock 5spd (winter tires)
Gear: 3rd
Peak HP at RPM: 315 Uncorrected, 306 SAE Corrected @ 5200rpm
Peak Torque at RPM: 381 Uncorrected, 370 SAE Corrected @ 4200rpm
Baseline hp/tq for a stock on same dyno: unknown (someone else can probably post that)
Target Boost: 21psi taper to 15psi
Target AFR: 11.5-12.0
Fuel: 93 oct Unleaded



Engine/Power Modifications:
Stock VF52 turbo
Manley 99.75mm forged Pistons
ARP head studs
ACL Race main/rod bearings
Killer-B oil pan
Killer-B oil pickup tube
Full-Race 1.5-scroll header, Swaintech coated and wrapped in DEI Titanium
NGK Iridium 1-step colder
Injector Dynamics 1000cc
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
COBB catted downpipe wrapped in DEI Titanium
COBB SF Intake + Airbox
Perrin Turbo inlet
COBB AccessPort
Air pump delete with IAG block off plates
Spearco Top Mount Intercooler
GrimmSpeed TMIC (thermal coating)
TurboSmart Kompact BPV
Grimmspeed 3-port EBCS
GrimmSpeed Lightweight Crank Pulley
PTP "Lava" turbo blanket
COBB turbo heatsheild
Whiteline KDT901 "positive shift kit" poly crossmember bushings
Whiteline KDT905 Rear Differential bushings (front)
Whiteline KDT906 Rear Differential bushings (rear)
Whiteline KDT907 Rear Subframe bushings
GroupN Engine Mounts
GroupN Transmission Mount
Crawford Air-Oil Separator (catch can with drainback)
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch

Other Modifications:
King Lift Springs + Koni Sport (winter)
15x7" Team Dynamics ProRally 1 (winter)
215/65/15 General Altimax Arctic (winter)


Comparison of the two. Same dyno, very similar setups on the same car, different temps, different tuners.
Cleo in Blue
Jorge in Red
SAE corrected for both since the temps were so different.

I like Cleo's better.

Looks like you picked up some spool time more than anything. Maybe that's due to the crank pulley more than anything else

Keep in mind the winter wheels. Larger diameter and a lot heavier. Any gain from the crank pulley (which wouldn't be that much) is more than offset by car having to spin 4 huge tires lol.

But you are right that the increased low-mid power is due to the earlier onset of boost. Not sure what is the exact reason. Maybe temps, maybe timing, maybe both. I don't think 3lbs off the crank pulley will shift my spool by 500rpms though.

Maybe the intercooler? Less restrictive or something so the boosted air gets into the engine faster?

Not sure. Maybe compounding factors.

I probably wouldn't say the intercooler had anything to do with it. I had a Spearco before, and they are well known to produce quality units. I only swapped out the IC because it was a pain in the ass to work on the car with it. Performance is probably similar between the two, but I'd say the Spearco had the edge in numbers game.

What RPM is it making peak torque at?

Nevermind I missed the bottom part.

it can't be that similar of a setup if there is as much as 150 hp difference at the lower RPM. something is amiss.

i listed the differences in red. they are very similar. same motor (+40,000mi of use mind you), same turbo, same intake, same header, same exhaust, same dyno, same location.

Primary differences are tuner and temperature. I think these are the biggest factors.but i tried to take out the temperture as much as i could by posting CORRECTED numbers. these are corrected for atmospheric conditions. if you look at the uncorrected numbers the spread is huge. 315(now), vs 297(then). correct the numbers for atmospheric conditions and they almost lay over top of each other with the exception of the low end. if you look at the boost plot below you can see how its spooling faster, which is why theres more torque there, which is why theres more power there. the spool could be affected by tuning tweaks, such as timing and fueling and EBCS settings in those parts of the map.

Secondary differences are wheels and crank pulley. I think these might have some affect.
Tertiary difference is the intercooler. I think this has little to no affect.
just my opinion.

not sure where youre getting 150hp from lol. looking at the plot is about a 50hp/75lbft difference at ~3200rpm.

I was reading it wrong. I was thinking they were paired up for hp/tq and it was 2 separate lines. it was blue for hp/tq for the same person.

So i got a deal on an Invidia N1 Race catback.
This one: http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Inv...t-Titanium-Tip-Subaru-WRX-Hatchback-2008-2011

Picked it up for $325from a local guy. has some slight damage on the tip, but you have to look close to see it. not bad for the price. It's a worthy experiment to see if i like it or not. If it really bothers me, I'll put the old exhaust back on. so far it's definitely louder and deeper, but not as bad as i was expecting. i'll drive around on it for maybe a month to see if it'll really bother me or if i get loud exhaust tickets. MD kind of pretends to care about that stuff, but they really don't hand out many tickets for exhaust noise, not like in north VA or anything.

Main differences:
SPT - 2.5" mid pipe, no resonator, 3" axleback with full size muffler.
Invidia N1 - 3" all the wall through. no resonator, canister muffler.

I would consider adding a heat shield to your rear bumper above the exhaust.

I'll keep an eye on it. But it's not really close enough to cause issues. I put my hand on the tip after driving for over an hour and it wasn't really all that hot.

GSRCRXsi said:

I'll keep an eye on it. But it's not really close enough to cause issues. I put my hand on the tip after driving for over an hour and it wasn't really all that hot.

Click to expand...

Nice. i just remember my 240sx getting pretty warm. Plus i ran a little rich and that black shit is impossible to remove.

Nissans are dirty cars.... i mean that with a lot a of love.

very loose, lower compression, lots of blow by to the exhaust

Loud exhaust just gives them an excuse to pull you over if they're trying to find a reason. I've never had one before, civic had straight exhaust as with the Z. My subaru is minor. cobb exhaust FTW.

NASA plates have been keeping the popo away i think

finally replaced all of my wheel bearings yesterday. all 4 bearings are original, and had about 151,000mi on them. after removal, 2 of them definitely felt "bad" or "going bad". but I cant be sure that that wasn't from me beating the nuts out of them to get them off

the whole job took about 5hrs but I usually work pretty slow and take my time to make sure I didn't forget something.

my 2010 has all bolt in bearings, which makes the job a bit easier than the guys with press in bearings. key word being easiER lol. and the rears were generally more work than the fronts. after taking the brakes off, really all you have to is bust the axle nut off, loosen the axle from the hub, unbolt the bearing from the hub via the 4 bolts around the axle, then remove the hub. sounds easy right? that's how the FSM makes it out to be lol. but in reality, the bearing assembly gets fused to the knuckle from rust. The driver side rear was the hardest one. and it took a solid 15 minutes of beating on it with a 3lb mini-sledge from every angle to dislodge it. this pretty much destroys the usability of the hub, so don't plan on ever re-using it lol. I was actually getting worried that it had gotten so damaged, worried that i wouldnt be able to get it off, and wouldnt be able to put the car back together haha. but it worked out. in the rear, when the hub finally releases from the knuckle, it will still be fused to the back plate and e-brake assembly. just flip it over and pound it out with the sledge. then just reinstall in reverse order.

The fronts are easier than the rear due to no ebrake assembly, and smaller contact area (less area to rust-fuse), but a bit more complicated because its harder to get to the hub bolts, closer to the axle.

I installed ARP extended studs in 4 brand new OEM bearings in the weeks before install. So on these cars, installing ARP studs can be as easy as just bolting in new bearings, provided you buy the bearings and install the studs in them off the car first. reduces downtime, which I like.

all bolts out. still stuck on there.


bearing out. note how beat up it is lol.


rear done


front bearing in


my 45 mile commute to work this morning was fine. re-torqued the lug nuts when i got to work, but they weren't that loose. glad I got this done! today will be transitioning back to my Feal 441 coilover suspension (fresh back from rebuild) and 17x9 summer wheels for the summer season.

"soon"

alot of folks transitioned in early april lol

I transitioned in March. But then again, I like to live dangerously.