My new 2010 Subaru WRX

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yeah its WAYYY too late to still be on snows. just killing 'em.
I put my summer tires on about 3 or 4 weeks ago now, and I was 'late' cuz my car was in the shop getting a tranny and clutch
 
I transitioned in March. But then again, I like to live dangerously.

and you were complaining that day the cold came back and it was like 30 out again haha.

but i had to wait until my Feals came back from being rebuilt. got those back like 2-3 weeks ago. then I had to wait for my service/alignment appoint, which is tomorrow. I didnt want to be driving around on the summer stuff without having the alignment done, so i always try to wait until the day before my appointment to swap my suspension out.
 
yeah its WAYYY too late to still be on snows. just killing 'em.
I put my summer tires on about 3 or 4 weeks ago now, and I was 'late' cuz my car was in the shop getting a tranny and clutch
see semi-explanation aove lol.

but this was the third season on my snows. i will probably retire them and get new tires for next season. so i didnt care too much about increased wear.
 
im sure i "could" with the winter tires.

but i'm not ready to rebuild my tranny yet. this car is still a DD so upgrades have to be on my schedule :)
 
you don't have to dump the clutch at 10 grand to get it going...

go to a sandy parking lot or something
 
Already switched. Lol

Something else that I was looking for this summer was getting center caps for my wheels. But apparently Work doesn't make any for these wheels (Emotion CR-Kai). I just wanted something simple to cover the hole and protect the axle but from some corrosion. Especially since I just replaced them all.

So as a lot of you know awptickes does 3D printing, and he's local to me. So I designed a part in FreeCAD, and he printed it for me. I designed it with a groove to take an o-ring for a tight seal.

2gTV2o8.jpg

plbPcR2.jpg


Perfect. I may paint the caps or throw some Di-noc over them.

If you want something 3D printed, hit up awptickes. His prices are very good. A lot cheaper than Shapeways. He designs too if you're not good with CAD, but I did the design on these caps.
 
Those caps are nice, I want to switch the caps on my truck at some point so I will keep this in mind. If anyone else gets these caps amazon is a great source for O rings. Centerline wanted $5 an O ring for my center caps plus shipping. Due to not being able to find them locally I got a 10 pack of them from Amazon for like a buck.
 
Yesterday the guys at IAG did a great job with the 30k service and alignment after swapping back to summer mode. While they had the oil drained, I had them throw in the sensor for the oil temp gauge in the spare bung of the Killer B oil pan.

Then today I installed 2 more gauges. Oil Temp and EGT. When I bought this full-race header a few years back, it had a bung for EGT already, but it was plugged. I'm pretty sure the bung is 1/8 NPT, since the hex key size to get the plug out was standard. The EGT probe adapter is 1/8 PT (BSPT), but the two are close enough. So I didn't bother with any adapters. NPT is 27 TPI, PT is 28 TPI, doesn't matter much when you only have 5-6 threads engaged anyway. Of course I used Teflon tape to seal also.

Running the wires was a bit of a pain in the ass. I decided to move my two existing gauges (Boost and Oil Press) from the cluster pods, to up on the dash for better visibility. And the EGT and oil temp would then go in the cluster pods. The only problem was that doing this meant that I had to re-route the sensor wires from the oil press and boost along a new path since they weren't long enough as is.

So I pulled the driver wheel and fender liner, removed the sensor wiring for boost and oil press, then routed the wires from EGT and oil temp along that path, then routed the oil press and boost over through the passenger side of the firewall and under the dash. Then it was just a matter of taking the dash apart to wire up power to the 2 gauges on top. I ran all the wires for the top two gauges through the plug hole in the center of the dash. There's usually some kind of light sensor there, but I can't imagine what the hell that thing is for since we don't have auto lights or anything. I just left it plugged in but dangling behind the radio lol. I also relocated the PLX AFR readout to on top of the dash for better visibility.

Oil temp and EGT sensors installed:
L2Ua0L6.jpg


Gauges installed and working perfectly:
cR6gtJM.jpg


Daytime pics, off vs. on:
leBiDRp.jpg
 
Looks great! Looks like your TPMS needs to be synced. :p

I thought you shouldn't use teflon with tapered threads? Looks like BSPT comes with more taper than NPT
 
yeah the threads are slightly different. but its close enough to not matter when you're only using like 4-5 threads anyway.

you always use teflon or other thread sealant on most tapered threads (there are certain types that deform and create a seal, but not NPT or BSPT).plus since they are slightly different threads anyway. some extra sealant seemed like a good idea.

I do not have any TPMS sensors in either sets of wheels that I have. waste of money, especially to get them reset every time i swap wheels. I have a small tire pressure gauge in my car and check the pressures semi-regularly, I just ignore the light lol.
 
I just ignore the light lol.

that would drive me incredibly insane. I would probably take out the fuse or remove that light bulb if i wasn't going to fix it. lol
 
ive been ignoring it, for like 3 years lol. I'm used to it.

there's no single fuse for just that light. and the "bulb" is likely an LED that's soldered into the PCB of the gauge cluster. that's usually how newer cars are.
 
my snows don't have tpms... it resets itself after a few miles of driving with the wheels on that have 'em.

i agree, you kinda get used to it. just like the 'lights on' light in the dash.
 
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