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What type of b18 are you putting in? If its a B18C/C1/C5 everything will bolt up the same, even wiring (granted you arent throwing any CEL's and vtec is working properly), you will just have to get an ecu in accordance with the motor your putting in. Even if its an LS swap your putting in...

When I took out the IAB in my 96 gsr, I felt no difference up top, just a loss of torque. You only will hear one audible vtec crossover but it is definitely more of an agressive crossover (at least on mine). I'd recommend running the stock IAB's. Torque comes in crucial when you have none....lol

Ya, thats the exact same thing that I did on my 97 ek hatch. Just add the vtec plugs and add the wires to the ecu plugs and your good to go.

If its Obd1 you can chip the ECU...You can easily chip a P75 ecu to run a GSR. You can even chip a P06 Ecu to run a GSR if you want. They just have to chip the ecu for Vtec also. People just normally always chip P28's because vtec is already wired into the ecu so it'll save you time and money.

Check the master cylinder (smallest reservoir) that is closest to the driver side fender well. You may be low on fluid. If you are low on fluid fill it up and check the master cylinder and the clutch slave to ensure there are no leaks. You may have to look into replacing one of the two. There is...

If all the plugs dont match up then somebody probably already tampered with the wiring harness on the obd2 b16a2. They probably converted the wiring harness to obd1 so you will have to convert it back to obd2 and wire in a knock sensor.

Everything will bolt right back up...U can use the same ECU as long as its same obd status as the car, BUT you won't have vtec and youll have some cel's. Get a gsr ecu, and find somebody to wire in vtec for you and everything else will bolt up the exact same.

Thanks for the help man...I ran some tests and wasn't getting anything still so I traced all my grounds and found one of the grounds underneath the carpet under the driver seat was unbolted. A new main relay, and a new fuel pump later, and it turned out being an unhooked ground wire....DAMN...

Just swapped a 96 gsr into my 95 cx hatch. I got everything hooked up running a Obd1 p72 and it appears I'm not getting any fuel. I swapped out the relay for a new one and still nothing. When i turn the key ignition on I don't ever hear the fuel pump prime. Besides the main relay and fuse is...

Alright thanks for your help guys! I'll let you know how it goes in a few days I just finished pulling the motor/tranny from my integra today!

I have a obd1 GSR motor i'm putting into my 00 Civic Si. I have the factory Obd2B wiring harness, will that run my GSR motor with a Obd2a-Obd2B jumper harness with a Obd2A P72 ECU? Or will I have to change a few connectors on the intake manifold and do the crank angle bypass? Any help you can...

I found out what it was, the map sensor and the TP sensor were switched...OOPS! haha Thanks for your help though guys!

I just triple checked it, and it appears the exact same but my order that they came up in was a little off it went 3,6,7,20, and 4. That is a lot of codes then....Could it have been the shop that wired my harness up? Maybe didn't put the wires into the new connectors in the right order (blue...

Ok so I tried that and it kept repeating th same pattern/code: 4shorts - Pause - 3shorts - pause - 6shorts - pause - 7shorts - pause - 1long - pause - 1long.....Then it just kept repeating that code...I guess that equals 40...Did I do that right?

I purchased a B18C from Hmotorsonline and replaced everything they recommend replacing. I had my factory wiring harness altered by a local race shop, and am running a 0BD2A - OBD1 jumper harness to a chipped P28 with a base GSR map. When I start the car it will fire up almost normal but if I...

Let me know how those hasport mounts work out for you. I traded my 92 civic Si for a 97 dx hatchback...I've already ripped the stock D16Y7 motor/tranny out and am just ordered a JDM GSR from Hmotorsonline...it should be here tomorrow...I have everything lined up for the swap....I've swapped a...

The Mid-shaft is a part of your axles...its on your driver side...it is stationary instead of flexible like the normal CV axles...it is bolted to your subframe and has a bearing that keeps it supported and allows it to spin. All you have to do is remove the drivers side axle, then unbolt the...

I have a B16A2 in my 97 EK hatch, and I had the EXACT same problems....after trying TONS of things, it ended up being my mid-shaft carrier bearing....People don't usually have to replace their mid shafts, but the carrier bearings DO go out and it caused me the exact same symptoms you are...