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1991 Civic Si D16A6 OBD1 Scan Tool

Discussion in 'ECU's, Electronics, and Tuning' started by Dual-500, Nov 19, 2009.

  1. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    Hey guys, I could use some help. Searched for a scan tool OBD1 to use on my 1991 Civic Si D16A6.

    Is a tool needed? If so, which one works?

    Research thus far shows no ALDL link on this vehicle and the codes are simply read from blinking LED's on the ECU.

    Is this correct?

    Thanks!
    SAW
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2009
  2. B16RacerN2NR

    B16RacerN2NR Working Hard VIP

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    Yeah, you count the blinks from the LED on the ecu. Your car is pre obd so no scanner is available/needed.
     
  3. vpower

    vpower New Member

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    What abt me...I have a p72 ecu with a jdm b18c type r in my 91 ef si hatch???
     
  4. B16RacerN2NR

    B16RacerN2NR Working Hard VIP

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    your jumper harness should have came with a spliced wire for the check engine light. Instead of counting the LED flashes on the ecu, you'll count the blinks of the CEL.
     
  5. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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  6. vpower

    vpower New Member

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  7. B16RacerN2NR

    B16RacerN2NR Working Hard VIP

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    You're both welcome :)
     
  8. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    I'm chasing a week old intermittent stall problem. Engine goes dead at intermittent intervals with restart sometimes immediate and sometimes it takes 5 minutes or so fro a restart.

    When engine fails, the tach goes to 0 and IP lights remain lit, other guages read ok. Service Engine light comes on.

    Discussing with local Autozone tech, we agree probably the angle sensor in the distributor - so, I picked up a distributor assy today and am installing it in a few minutes.

    Will let you know how it goes. It's either that or wiring. In unrelated maintenance I changed the ignition swich assy a few days ago - after the engine problem cropped up. Was hoping that would fix it but it didn't. Old ignition switch was worn out and had intermittent issues.

    SAW
     
  9. B16RacerN2NR

    B16RacerN2NR Working Hard VIP

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    Any of the distributor sensors wouldn't cause the car to die. It'll just go into limp mode. I'm assuming the new distributor is coming with a new ignitor so if the distributor swap fixes your problem, I would say the new ignitor or the new coil fixed your problem.

    Did you read the codes yet? What code(s) did you get?
     
  10. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    No, no code read yet - will do in a few minutes. I'm thinking the sensor is hosed up - cam angle sensor in the distributor. I'll know in a while. If the angle sensor goes it will die and that would explain the tach going to 0.

    I appreciate your comments and sharing experience. I'll let you know what I find.
     
  11. B16RacerN2NR

    B16RacerN2NR Working Hard VIP

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    In these vehicles, it won't cause the car to die. I know what you're getting at though because most cars won't even start with one of these sensors bad but the ones in these honda distributors will still let the car run VIA limp mode.

    The tach going to 0 leads me to believe that your problem is with the ignitor since the blue ignitor wire is actually what supplies the rpm reading.

    Either way, hope you get this taken care of soon :)
     
  12. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    That was my thought too - the ignitor since the tach signal comes from it.

    What I found:

    After consulting a former Honda mechanic that now works at a nearby Autozone, I returned the ignitor unopened and picked up a refurbed distributor assy and rotor/cap. Didn't even look at codes before pulling the old dist. Don't ask me why, that's just the way it went down.

    Anyway, I pulled battery out, then plug wires, then the cap and looked inside. Rust and corrosion. Then it immediately occurred to me. Last August the upper radiator hose nipple cracked and broke and spewed steam and coolant all over the place. I replaced the radiator and a month or so later a coolant line to the throttle body split and again spewed coolant and steam all over under the hood.

    That is probably what sent the distributor to an early grave. I had it replaced about 3 years ago and that was a year or so after the upper tank split on another radiator.

    So, it appears radiator and cooling system failures ain't too good for the distributor.

    This time I assembled with silicon high voltage dialectric grease under the cap to seal it up better.

    Tell ya one thing for sure - it runs MUCH better. I never posted all symptoms as I was just looking for fault code assistance. But it idled rough and had some rough spots around 3-5 grand on the tach which I attributed to dirty/faulty injectors. Probably dumped 10 gallons of Berryman's and other injector cleaners into it. :) The distributor evidently was going south over a period of time and the coolant accelerated it's decline.

    The car runs way better - real smooth and mucho more power. It barely passed emissions last time. I had the cat replace a month or so ago knowing it was fried. Between the cat and ignition limpling is most likely why hydrocarbon emmisions were high.

    I expect now it will easily pass emmisions.

    All I need to watch for now are RADAR guns.

    It would be premature to declare victory at this point. I'll get back here in a week or so and tell you if it's fixed.
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2009
  13. B16RacerN2NR

    B16RacerN2NR Working Hard VIP

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    Sounds like you're on the right track :thumbsup:
     
  14. king101

    king101 New Member

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    iv just bout a b16a vtech engine but it has no crank sensore on it but my old b16a vtech does is it possable to take the crank sensor of my old engine and put it on the new one and how would i go about dooing so if you could help that would b great thank you
     
  15. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    Problem solved. Runs great - no more engine issues.

    Now it's on to the heater core. What a PITA. I got tired to tearing parts off this thing and am now putting the new heater core where the A/C evaporator coil used to live. Nope, never had A/C since I bought it in 2002 so I don't care.

    A little fabrication required, but not too bad.

    I'll let you know how it goes.
     
  16. eg6sir

    eg6sir Supa Mod Moderator VIP

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    start your own thread then.. we dont take kindly to threadjackers round these parts.. ya hear?
     
  17. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    I'll do the same thing with the "The Great Heater Core" saga of 2009 - post some "How To" pics on the fabrication in case someone else is interested or as lazy as I am!

    :)
     
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