The block guard isn't necessary. The ARP stud kit is worth keeping. Everything else you might as well keep around in case you need it during the build.
As for the pistons, I'd ditch the Type R pistons and put that money towards a set of forged pistons and rods. Adding the GSR head to the B18B1 block is an excellent choice for both all motor and turbo applications (I can speak from experience on the turbo part, especially) - the larger diameter valves are worth it alone. Not to mention you'll likely get better fuel economy due to the variable cam profile. If you do swap this cylinder head onto your B18B1 block, it would be silly of you not to use VTEC.
The idea behind VTEC is simple - use a smaller cam profile in the lower RPM's, then a larger cam profile in the higher RPM's. This simple idea maintains all the power that we love whilst improving the fuel economy significantly. To put it into perspective, my build was a straight B18B1 with Crower stage 2 turbo cams. It made great power. I swapped over to the GSR head, sold the car, and the guy that bought it is now making more power on the same amount of boost and is also getting an average of ~6mpg more than I ever managed with the straight B18B1 cylinder head.
The LS-VTEC seems daunting at first but it is well worth the effort if you're looking for a little more power. Also, it really isn't as difficult to tune as everyone makes it seem on the interwebs.
All that said, my advice to you is to keep it as simple as possible. This isn't meant to offend you or anything, but I can tell from the questions you have asked that it would be best for you to put the bottom end together with some pistons and rods, break it in all motor, then add the turbo kit later. Keep the cylinder head stock for now - you can always go back later and add the VTEC cylinder head.