2012 Veloster

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It amuses me when people think that a bigger sway bar is always better. You have to find the right size for the type of driving you do. My sway bar on my Civic is great for auto crossing, its probably too nig for track days though because it induces more rear end rotation than I would want.

Nothing directed at you Chris btw. Wish I could go against you to compare driving:p
 
It amuses me when people think that a bigger sway bar is always better. You have to find the right size for the type of driving you do. My sway bar on my Civic is great for auto crossing, its probably too nig for track days though because it induces more rear end rotation than I would want.

That's why I like my Comptech adjustable sway... adjustable at these points stiffer than stock:

162%
182%
202%
236%
287%

I have mine set at 236%, works well for high speed street driving combined with the stock AP1.5 rear sway.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5pJA7P_z5bCbXo0YzRBNFFVVHc/edit?pli=1
 
My cars rear end is a giant sway bar. Since the car is almost neutral this should give me the rotation I am used to.
 
FINALLY got my eBay catch can on. the nipples are screened with mesh and there is stainless steel wool inside. It is currently mounted to a body pin sandwiched between the CAI box top and the grille. I need to toss the factory snorkel back on to fill the gap (was supposed to leave it on when i put the CAI on, it allows air from the emblem to get to the filter) . and i will use a 10mm bolt and nut to hold it tight.

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well, i fucked up the catch can, totally installed it wrong. here is the updated setup.

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next up... factory fogs -

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laying out the wiring before putting the bumper back on. I had to extend the battery + and - to reach -

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some photos of the factory "modified" stalk for style/tech package -

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while i had the bumper off i plasti-dipped the emblem and grille -

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yes yes, 12 bolts. 6 on the bottom 6 on the top, pop the brackets at the fenders and pull forward. takes all of 5 minutes to remove the bumper if you aren't in a hurry.


the grille/ emblem however was 9 screws. looking back i should have wrapped the radiator panel in carbon vinyl :)
 
Got into ripping the wheel apart today to install the factory modified stalk. took all of 20 minutes.

airbag comes off with a T30 torx bit. one there you can disconnect the clockspring plug off the airbag, and the multimedia controls from the clockspring. wheel comes off with a 19mm socket (i used the SAE equivalent since my 19 went missing) .

console comes apart with 2 phillips screws in the front, and one underneath, then from the wheel gap using a thin standard screwdriver (or a plastic trim wrench) just pop up the 2 clips you see in the front and you can separate the rest without much force. the clockspring is held on by 2 or 3 compression clips just give it a good tug and it should come off, i dropped it into the lower cover. you can hold it with a piece of tape if you like, to keep it from spinning. i didn't see it necessary.

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the right stalk pops off with one big compression clip.

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the left one has 2 phillips screws, one at 12 oclock the other at 6 oclock and an electrical plug on the back. just pulls forward off the column.

heyyy XD :)

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Installation is the reverse of removal. i stopped taking photos since it started to rain... I pulled and tilted the wheel as far as it would go and ziptied the foglamp wires from the stalk to the column and ran them toward the fusebox for now. next step is to put the big plug through the FW to connect with the engine bay harness, and the other wise goes to the fusebox for relay power.
 
i had to change the stalk out for the "factory fogs"
 
WELL this is completed.

Wednesday afternoon/evening:
I unbolted half the small plastic cover to the right of the brake booster, one 10mm bolt I left the other on as it was under the booster and I could not get to it with the battery and ECU in the way. From the inside I made an incision to the left of the harness. I pushed a coathanger through from the pedal side and taped the fog light harness to it and pulled it through.

I tied everything neatly up under there with a few zip ties. I plugged in the existing wires from the stalk into the relay clip. On this side of the harness there is also a chassis ground for the relay that I bolted to the 10mm bolt holding the dash together to the right of the fusebox. The other wire from the stalk, went to the fusebox. I used the 15a fuse/wire supplied by sharkracing in the cig lighter fuse hole. This is very low draw as it just supplies power to the relay.

I had Kristen come out and flip the stalk so I could hold the power and ground wires and they worked! I need to lengthen the power wire a few inches and we are good.

Last night I ended up modifying the small fuse junction that runs to the battery for the foglamp power instead of cutting and soldering wires, bolted the + and - to the battery and now the fogs work independently of the headlamps. voila!
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well looks like i'm stepping up my game a bit. just grabbed 4 of these, 2 with 25% and 2 with 45% life left for 100 bucks..

hancook c71s

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they are 245/40r17

should be interesting to squeeze onto a 17x7 :)


going to go pick them up in washington, CT in a few.
 
took the 210 miles trip today to get the tires. got them mounted by the previous owner for free :) they are 245/40r17.

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yesterday went to turbokits.com to pick up my long waited for axleback. tried to get it on tonight after the trip, but the 2 studs holding the exisiting muffler to the mid pipe broke loose from their welds due to my massive biceps...... i cut one of them the other is a bit of a tight fit and i didn't finish it.

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