2014 Veloster Turbo
- Thread starter TurboMirage
- Start date
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stiffer suspension = eibach prokit branded by hyundai. quicker steering = electric assist adjusted (mine has been reprogrammed) and it is the same rack. my '14 came stock with the short shifter and i have no idea where you got the close ratio thing.
vball practice. i love how this car looks clean even when it hasnt been washed in over a week.
Raced at LAZ this weekend, another DSP class win and fastest FWD. starting to become a pattern
SPECIAL DELIVERY! Frank delivered my 1-piece aluminum strut bar to the racing site. super nice guy.
hand washed the car by bucket and mitt, and took about 2 hours to really clean the wheels for the first time this year.
videos soon!
Raced at LAZ this weekend, another DSP class win and fastest FWD. starting to become a pattern
SPECIAL DELIVERY! Frank delivered my 1-piece aluminum strut bar to the racing site. super nice guy.
hand washed the car by bucket and mitt, and took about 2 hours to really clean the wheels for the first time this year.
videos soon!
the guy on the bike he's a previous VT owner from the hartford area.
video?
#14 out of 54
#14 out of 54
so i built an IC sprayer.
6 small zip ties
6 feet of 7/32 vacuum / sprayer hose
1/4 inch drill bit
10ft of 1/4in OD copper tubing
dewalt 1/16 split point drill bit
using my cold side resonator pipe to roll the ends of the pipe into U shapes
after getting about the desired shape, i flattened it by hand using a hammer and 2x4 to make it easier to drill the holes. i also crimped the bottom shut.
then i drilled 5 rows of 5 holes making the top holes a little bigger than the bottom ones.
TEST!
now that is that! after taking the bumper off... time to get the chute off the IC, by taking off the crash bar and horn.
after removing the crash bar, 2 10mm bolts and it just lifts up/out.
i did take the opportunity to clean my IC and straighten any bad fins.
i drilled some holes into the crash bar to support and zip tie the piping, and bent it to fit the intercooler perfectly. i have about 1.5 inch to .5 inch clearance following the crash bar curve to the IC.
once the bar is tight and you're happy with your placement... here at the spray bottle, the nipple pointing forward is for the rear sprayer.
and TEST
and here it is!
6 small zip ties
6 feet of 7/32 vacuum / sprayer hose
1/4 inch drill bit
10ft of 1/4in OD copper tubing
dewalt 1/16 split point drill bit
using my cold side resonator pipe to roll the ends of the pipe into U shapes
after getting about the desired shape, i flattened it by hand using a hammer and 2x4 to make it easier to drill the holes. i also crimped the bottom shut.
then i drilled 5 rows of 5 holes making the top holes a little bigger than the bottom ones.
TEST!
now that is that! after taking the bumper off... time to get the chute off the IC, by taking off the crash bar and horn.
after removing the crash bar, 2 10mm bolts and it just lifts up/out.
i did take the opportunity to clean my IC and straighten any bad fins.
i drilled some holes into the crash bar to support and zip tie the piping, and bent it to fit the intercooler perfectly. i have about 1.5 inch to .5 inch clearance following the crash bar curve to the IC.
once the bar is tight and you're happy with your placement... here at the spray bottle, the nipple pointing forward is for the rear sprayer.
and TEST
and here it is!
i decided to remove the "hybrid intake" to sell it off as a complete kit for a NAV.
i left off the resonator assembly that exists in the fender/bumper area instead just leaving the big 2.75in gaping hole at the bottom of the airbox.
i took the stock airbox and removed the magnetic flapper hose, and sealed it with this bitchin duct tape.
i also popped this thing out of the top half.
it is a tight fit.
tada! the tape is to remind me when i took the filter out and put it back in. it still looked new even after 4K miles. i have just under 9K on the car right now, since mid january and it had 3 oil changes so far.
i also took the front lip off the bumper to dip it red, the bottom of my bumper is BEAT UP.
i left off the resonator assembly that exists in the fender/bumper area instead just leaving the big 2.75in gaping hole at the bottom of the airbox.
i took the stock airbox and removed the magnetic flapper hose, and sealed it with this bitchin duct tape.
i also popped this thing out of the top half.
it is a tight fit.
tada! the tape is to remind me when i took the filter out and put it back in. it still looked new even after 4K miles. i have just under 9K on the car right now, since mid january and it had 3 oil changes so far.
i also took the front lip off the bumper to dip it red, the bottom of my bumper is BEAT UP.
i put the sprayer in to help keep my temps under 170 while waiting to take my runs. i'd start the run off at 1/2-3/4 power then 25 seconds later i'll have 18psi on tap. it puts you off a bit.
also the factory airbox seems to be helping keep the IATs down a bit.
also the factory airbox seems to be helping keep the IATs down a bit.
yes, lots. but im not really looking to do that so for now, ice water will do
your car doesn't roast when you sit in 90 degree weather, in traffic for 20 or more minutes? when my IATs get too high the car cuts boost. stuff just gets hot, man. the IC is right next to the radiator and the air filter right behind it. its gets hot enough that i can't touch either one after idling in the sun.
well i know for sure there is more logic in the ECU of the veloster than the genesis. its much less "editable" lol but really though the IAT "problem" doesn't come up on the 13s it may just be the 14.
it is what it is guy... i had a problem, and i solved it for $14 (as far as i know) didnt have to buy $100 worth of that gold tape shit that makes your engine bay a mirror in the sunlight. didnt have to move my IC, didnt have to cut out any panels, etc.
it is what it is guy... i had a problem, and i solved it for $14 (as far as i know) didnt have to buy $100 worth of that gold tape shit that makes your engine bay a mirror in the sunlight. didnt have to move my IC, didnt have to cut out any panels, etc.
if it works, cool.I just don't see how heat soak can possibly be a significant problem at idle before a run. Perhaps the real problem is not letting the car fully cool after a run.
If you shut down very soon after after, the head/exhaust/etc are going to radiate a lot of heat into the bay and other metal parts.... without air passing over them or coolant running through them. I would suggest doing some cool down laps off-course for 5-10 min at very low R's and no boost jst to keep things moving and air passing and coolant cooling.
i do get what you are saying, and i always let the car cool at idle after runs. remember, our runs are 60-90 minutes apart which is plenty of time for the car to cool down.
