89 CRX What to do?

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Originally posted by civicious@Nov 14 2004, 09:19 PM
You know what, you're absolutely correct. The whole 'higher octane ratings are better' thing is a big gimmick so that the gas stations can make more money.

As a matter of fact, I put 4 gallons of water in my brother's prelude today and ran a 12.30.
[post=416814]Quoted post[/post]​


wutever dude. it's obvious u don't understand this since u have nuthin worth-while to say. but if u wanna act like that, that's fine. i was just simply tryin to inform those that actually want to learn sum useful info.
 
you pretty much proved yourself wrong on the cheveron site it says ...higher octane gasoline may improve performance slightly
 
Originally posted by deejay@Nov 15 2004, 01:14 AM
you pretty much proved yourself wrong on the cheveron site it says ...higher octane gasoline may improve performance slightly
[post=416894]Quoted post[/post]​


yeah when u take it out of context, it does seem like it's counter wut i said. but if u read that whole paragraph and understand what a knock sensor does, then i still stand. the knock sensor, when it senses knocking in the engine, retards the timing. so the only way that using the higher octane fuel in that engine would improve the performance, would be if the lower grade octane is detonating causing it to knock, and the sensor doing its job. otherwise if there is no knocking, no detonation, no preignition. it won't do anything for performance.

if u people don't want to believe me that's fine. i really don't care, i was just simply trying to save u sum money. i mean, y pay more for basicly nothing other than to say u use premium? yes i undersand some engines need the higher octane, and yes they will perform better on it than lower octane fuels. i guess the easiest way to put it is this. hectane burns damn easily and octane burns slower. as the octane rating goes up, the hectane rating goes down. thus the gas burns slower and slower, w/o the aid of heat from higher compression.

to each their own, but if u don't KNOW, then at least don't try to sell u'r hypothesis as theory.
 
Ok...

If you want Cheap and Fast it wont be Reliable
If you want Fast and Reliable it wont be Cheap
If you want Reliable And Cheap it wont be Fast


Sorry had too...

Engine
First and foremost you'll need to convert from an auto to manual and vonvert from DPFI (Dual Point FI) to MPFI (Multi Point FI). For the engine a B16A (B16B from the Civic Type R) will give the best results for its money, its "Rev Happy" nor does it need NOS. an LS swap is nice too. From my expericen I love hte B16 Civic/CRX's... If you swap you may as well forget 87 Octane Safe. If you boost, same answer. For exhuast RS*R makes a wonderful product, its muffled and quiet, but deep.

Brakes/Supension
4 Wheel Disc? Check out a 90-93 Integra, it has 4 Wheel Dsic standard and they rear trailing arms will swap directly onto the Civic.CRX chassis. Or check out a 91 CRX Si or 91 CRX HF for its rear disc brakes. For the bars and such, Skunk2 makes them and various other brands... do some searching.

Okay, I do want to get rid of my rear drum brakes on my Civic for disc brakes. Right now, I don't know where to begin on getting this done. I can see that you've posted some info on that. Now, is there a thread that you know of in the forums here that has specific instructions and a list of parts/tools that I would need to complete this project?
From your posting, I know to get rear disc set from a 90-93 Integra as the donor car and the rear trailing arms. Other than that, I don't know what to do or where to begin. I'm still pretty much a novice at this sorta of thing.
 
170+/- whp
< 140 tq
reliable
n/a, no spray (able to take would be nice)
Rev happy (not needed but a +)
Stock Exh! (not totally stock maybe 2.25" plumbing but resonated and muffled GOOD)
Smooth idle, great gas mileage and 87 octane safe!

Transmission.. I would prefer an lsd?

You just listed an ITR. Go buy one of those and you can leave it stock!
 
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