Andrew's engine swap (pics)

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andrew i think,
actually i know you are the one "abusing" the dd term; to alot of people the cars you own are DD.

dd to a car guy with a HP project means high gas milage reliable, easy to fix, comfortable and easy to drive not "hang with peeps"

unless you get an evo, srt, or new high performance vehicle,THEN its a DD that keeps up with "peeps" because you dont have to do much to make faster.

youre still young and have hardly any resposibilties that would allow you to grasp the consept of which i speak of.


but you will

i did and i'm only 25 so its not like i'm that much older but i was doing the same things youre doing now

6 project cars
10gs

and a stock 99 lsv ek in the end as a dd, not what i coudve had if i'd saved the money.

before you fork out more money on cars take a breath and let it all soak in.

:)
 
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not to jump in on the thread without saying anything after 38 pages of greatness, but if you got an LS you could run 87 octane instead of premium...
 
not to jump in on the thread without saying anything after 38 pages of greatness, but if you got an LS you could run 87 octane instead of premium...

Ya, you could save a dollar thirty on each and every fill up.

Whoop de fuckin doo.
 
Ya, you could save a dollar thirty on each and every fill up.

Whoop de fuckin doo.

I love this site:cool:

off topic a little, but as I was posting this I noticed this..
fs.jpg

I think more guests view these threads at once than members
 
Ya, you could save a dollar thirty on each and every fill up.
Whoop de f*ckin doo.

People don't realize how little more it costs to fill up with premium.
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And I'm ashamed of Andrew. He has a very cool update and hasn't mentioned it yet:ph34r:

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;)
 
EDIT: Gahhh, Terrance you noob.... I was workin on it!! haha :p

Thanks for chiming in Formby. I understand what your saying. I don't know what I want.... I guess I'll just play it by ear.

Update:
I drove it
yesterday. =)
Just around the yard to adjust the clutch, check water temp/leak situation (have a pin-hole leak on the upper rad. hose by the head)

I had to ghetto-rig the starting sequence becuase for some reason the starter signal wire isn't connected to the ignition. I must have not soldered it back when I extended it for the wire tuck on the D, and now after the swap I musta pulled it apart.... ANYway... On to what you guys want:

Nothing special, but as you can see, it runs:


DSCN9068.jpg

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I didn't want to put this nasty POC in there, but I wanted the car to run! (and yes, thats my MAP.
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Hooked ^ that up ^, and then just crossed these screwdrivers on the "hot" wire from the battery and the Signal wire to the starter and voila.
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we got heat baby!
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EDIT: Gahhh, Terrance you noob.... I was workin on it!! haha :p

Thanks for chiming in Formby. I understand what your saying. I don't know what I want.... I guess I'll just play it by ear.

Update:
I drove it
yesterday. =)
Just around the yard to adjust the clutch, check water temp/leak situation (have a pin-hole leak on the upper rad. hose by the head)

I had to ghetto-rig the starting sequence becuase for some reason the starter signal wire isn't connected to the ignition. I must have not soldered it back when I extended it for the wire tuck on the D, and now after the swap I musta pulled it apart.... ANYway... On to what you guys want:
Nothing special, but as you can see, it runs:



and then video and pics here.


read hilighted sections. I'm sure you can figure it out.
 
haha, well I had read it earlier today, and then I read his post and I thought wait a sec..
 
Heres the latest guys....

-Got the starting problem fixed.. it was just a loose signal wire. Go it taken care of.
-The car runs PERFECT
-But driving is a different story.....
I don't know if it's my allignment, CV axles, Toe/Caster, or All of the above making it shake when it's under power(after about 15mph it starts. Haven't been above 30 or so)

Heres a series of vids showing how my evening went.
Terrance (Mac_24_seven) is filming.





LOL at a video of Terrance riding in the engine bay trying to figure out what the shaking is all about:


LOL at Terrance being DEAF hahaha




So this is where I stand....
I don't know whether I should adjust/tweak the traction bar toe/caster and stuff, or should I just take it to an allignment shop and have it checked out?

idk... i'm going to sleep. I've had a few nice drinks with some good tasting Bacardi 151.... and I'm ready to chill out and watch some tube...
Later guys
-Andrew
 
Glad I could help out and give you something to laugh at.

Just remember... I'm your wire trouble shooting daddy :)
 
lol I don't think I've ever seen anything funnier than someone filming the engine while riding in the engine bay

like just saying "oh he filmed while riding on the engine" isn't funny really though

maybe its that tequila talking again

regardless though, I'm curious as to how you fix the axle problem, because I know you will, you're like a super hero and super hero's always win
 
hahaha.. . FAR from it my-man... FAR from it...

Idk what i'm gonna do.
-It could be a motor mount issue- but the civic it was mounted in before my rex drove perfect?!
-It could be an allignment issue(the shaking and crap), and the axle is o.k., but when I drive and turn, it makes a wierd jerking/popping thing that leads me to believe it's the CV's.

I don't know man.... I just got paid a nice check, but I do NOT want to buy some Hasport mounts just to find out these were fine....

I think my best bet right now is to trailer it to the Allignment shop and let them tell me what they think.
I start school Monday, and even though I have other vehicles here to drive, I still need to get this fixed ASAP. (obviously..)

Ideas??
 
well as far as the popping noise, my rex did that (stock cv's and axles of course) and it did turn out to be my cv's, and the noise sounds just like yours. My cv's though had a complete tear around the boot of all but 1 joint. It was cheaper and easier to just replace the entire axle. But the popping noise, unless the cv's are brand new, that's my guess. I'd check to see the cost of replacing just the joints vs the entire axle, because the whole axle may be cheaper.

As far as the mounting and such, the only thing I could possibly guess is that whoever had the rex before you had seriously wrecked it and fucked something up, and it was repaired and lined up with your d series, but even still it should fit you b16 with the mounts so just ignore all that shit above lol.

Definately just get it checked at a shop first becasue that's the worst feeling, of buying something that you think you need and you end up not needing, especially something expensive like motor mounts.
 
Definately just get it checked at a shop first becasue that's the worst feeling, of buying something that you think you need and you end up not needing, especially something expensive like motor mounts.
Exactly. I don't plan on changing anything until I get the toe/caster/allignment checked out.

The boots are not torn at all, but, anything could've happened when I put them in. (however, I've done a bunch of motor swaps, and this wasn't anything different, so I don't know what was different...)


But you know what? when I just typed (up there ^) about allignment and stuff, I got to thinking about my wheels being way out of balance. I don't know HOW it could've happened, because I was driving last week 80mph with no problem at all...but I guess it's not impossible.

Maybe I'll try that. I'll put some different wheels on there and see what it does.
 
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