b17 turbo

[arroshiz]

i've got a stock b17a1, was wondering what a safe level of boost would be, hoping for around 260-280 hp, all new gaskets, new timing belt and all that....want to push around 7 lbs...possible or not...i've got a pretty decent budget, plan on building my head slightly, and of course fuel management

 

[posol]

you can boost 300-ish on stock sleeves, about 250 on stock pistsons/rods safely on most b-series motors in good shape and TUNED PROPERLY with an electronic fuel management unit like hondata/uberdata/etc

however, you're never going to com close to 300 on 7 psi. lol

i hit 290-ish on 11 psi on a sleeved 2.0 gsr motor with a t67 turbo.

 

[arroshiz]

can u give me an idea of what a good setup would be...for making about 250 whp with the stock pistons/rods...as far as what type of electronic fuel managment...and also the valvetrain and cams

 

[posol]

get some 94+ gsr cams. cheap, and effective for turbo motors. no other headwork is necessary.

everything else, pretty much comes down to how much money you have to spend.

 

[Slammed90Lude]

that list you made for me a while back would work for him pretty well B

 

[arroshiz]

whats that list

 

[posol]

he's probably referrign to this thread:

https://hondaswap.com/forums/index.php?...topic=32402&hl=

 

[Slammed90Lude]

i actually owned a honda at that point



that was never turbo LOL

 

[arroshiz]

ok, got a new idea...gonna hunt me an ls block, and put some better rods and pistons, and keep the block stock...would you still recommend that sc50 for about 260-280hp...and if im going to do this, i need a good piston, rod, crank, choice...or...should i buy a block that is already built? sorry for all the newbie gayness

 

[posol]

Originally posted by pheonixb16aguy@Apr 14 2005, 09:28 PM
290 on a sleeved gsr is a waste of money with something horribly wrong (no offence B )

did you see the aftermath? my block was fubar. crank mains were out of spec almost .5". i had no oil pressure... but anyway, that motor is long gone...

a b17 is prolly the worst b series motor out there

its pretty much a b16 with a little longer crank and different rod length. its no worse than a gsr or b16.

...however you will more than likely run uberdata since your car is obd1 ... and its a good cheap setup ... if i were you i would get a 60.63 off a old school t bird have it rebuilt get a decent manifold and possibly external wastegate if desired ...some piping and a jrc fmic and oil lines and you'll be set not only will you make good horse power but with uberdata it will be reliable if tuned properly ... i would say 9 psi tuned good on a b17 is well on the safe side and should push around 230+whp depending on quite a few things .. i.e. turbo, manifold, exhaust, tunning...yadda yadda yadda

[post=487241]Quoted post[/post]​

 

[arroshiz]

must have missed the part about buying a new block....

 

[arroshiz]

just wondering what kind of output i'd be looking at with about 7-10 lbs of boost on a built block w/ 10.0:1 compression...and was wondering whats prolly the most boost i would wanna push on that compression, while at the same time keeping it from being too incredibly hard to tune

 

[arroshiz]

i was thinking maybe a 14g or 14b mitsubishi turbo

 

[FFCiv]

you can make almost 500 on stock sleeves with new pistons and rods... once hmt is back up ill liink the post

 

[arroshiz]

make it but break it

 

[92civicb18b1]

500 hp on stock sleeves = disaster, defenitly not reliable

I would actually suggest a 60/48 turbo. Get a t3 42/48 and put a 60 compressor housing on it.

260 hp is easily obtainable

-t3 60/48
-custom IC piping
-JRC (yes a fucking JRC, 8" would be fine)
-a full race manifold would be ideal but if you're on a budget any log should be fine
-Uberdata
-550s
-Greddy BOV (most aftermarket are fine though)
-3" Kteller Exhaust
-Tial 38mm WG

As for the b17 being the worst engine of the B's, maybe just the least reliable or not the best choice to start modifying. It's probably the best for a swap with IHE and that's it.

Good luck finding rods for it, don't they have an odd size or was it just a stroked b16.

 

[arroshiz]

im using a b18 block and selling the b17 with internals, its got 25k rebuilt miles on it, and i'll be selling soon, few months

 

[92civicb18b1]

don't sell the head... it actually has a pretty good flowing head.

 

[arroshiz]

i'm not, i need the head, whats the use of a block w/no head

 

[hondarin]

Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Apr 12 2005, 02:16 PM
you can boost 300-ish on stock sleeves, about 250 on stock pistsons/rods safely on most b-series motors in good shape and TUNED PROPERLY with an electronic fuel management unit like hondata/uberdata/etc

however, you're never going to com close to 300 on 7 psi. lol

i hit 290-ish on 11 psi on a sleeved 2.0 gsr motor with a t67 turbo.

[post=486220]Quoted post[/post]​

if you hit only 290 on a sleeved 2.0gsr with a t67 pushin 11 psi, then, i would imagine that you were running lower compression pistons; but why sleeve it if you're gonna run lower compression pistons? were the pistons a lower cr? or, possibly whoever built your engine didn't do a very good job (and no offense if it was you). also, what elevation are you at?

i refer you to hondata's dyno page: http://www.hondata.com/dynocharts.html

i dunno, maybe these cars are special cases.

also, you're always saying that head work "isn't necessary," but when you get right down to it, a good PnP is always gonna help you breathe better.

and lastly, everybody always suggests full 3" exhaust, and at 250 or even 300hp, you don't need 3" exhaust. i'm sure a 2.75" or maybe even 2.5" exhaust at those power levels would have far greater exhaust velocity (in a mandrel bent system, of course. if you're using crush bending, then i suppose 3" would be needed.) if you're exhaust is too big, you will lose power, both in the bottom end and top end.

finally, i don't mean to offend you by any of my comments, just my opinions based on my education thus far in my mechanical engineering degree, and from what i've read.