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b18a n/a what is a realistic hp goal for me.

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by labe lincoln, Mar 19, 2009.

  1. labe lincoln

    labe lincoln New Member

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    I have a 93 b18a I have allready bought forged internals. weisco pistons and eagle rods the pistons are 20 over stock. I wanna go naturally aspirated. and as high as I can go. I plan on using a b16 tranny with it. can anyone tell me which rout I should go on parts and what they know what works good. can I get anywhere around 240 hp n/a.
     
  2. eg6sir

    eg6sir Supa Mod Moderator VIP

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    i'm sure it's possible, but it'll be hard to do without a vtec head
     
  3. esi42

    esi42 Member

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    He's correct.

    Most n/a guys try to use the P8R head from the b20 since it has bigger ports. The stock 93 ls head and cams suck. Most Ive seen out of n/a b18/b20 is around 170 whp and that was built to the max.

    Put on a b16 head and be done with it. Youll spend way more $$ on LS performance parts(cams, springs, gears, porting) to get the same power youd have by running a stock b16a/gsr head.

    Its cool to be different sometimes but that also usualy means the car is slow and you spent a lot more $$.
     
  4. GoTeamVentures2000si

    GoTeamVentures2000si New Member

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    ITB's, underdrive pulley, b16 head, exhaust, intake. new cams maybe.. theres all kinds of stuff you can do if you have the money.. dont forget to put the 99-00 si rims on it.
     
  5. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Umm, don't put a lightened crank pulley on your car unless you like the thought of pre-maturely chewing up your main bearings.
     
  6. esi42

    esi42 Member

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    The N1 CTR pulley you see on ebay and all around the net isnt a bad pulley to run. It has the timing marks on it unlike the cheap aluminum egay units and its steelish(lol). All underdrives pulleys will run your alternator slower and the CTR pulley is only a 1 belt pulley. No power steering or ac. Ive also heard its bad to run an underdrive without having everything balanced. Ive personally ran them many times before without issue, but its best to have the flywheel, pulley, and the whole rotating assembly balanced after a fresh build for the best results. Do as I say not as I do kinda thing ^_^.

    b18a turbo ftw :D.

    Hells yeah!
     
  7. GoTeamVentures2000si

    GoTeamVentures2000si New Member

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    Any lightened crank pulley or just the cheap ones? i havnt heard of that before.. im intrigued...
     
  8. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    It comes from torsional vibration/harmonics. Balance has nothing to do with it; rather it comes from the combustion cycle and the natural tendency of the crank to flex during this cycle.

    The CTR N1 pulley was meant for race cars...and the B16 engine. Shorter stroke motors don't suffer as much from torsional vibration as longer stroke motors. This is attributed to shorter-stroke cranks being more rigid in general. D15s are probably the only stock +88 motors that do not have stock dampers.

    An alternative to lightweight pulleys is shaved stock pulleys that still retain the elastomer ring.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Okay, enjoy your fucked bearings.
    Exactly, couldn't have said it better myself.
     
  10. labe lincoln

    labe lincoln New Member

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    my machine shop told me today that the aftermaket lightweight crank pulleys are really bad about destroying the oil pump i don't know. I think Im going to go stock on the crank pulley. I just droped everything off with them today to have ballanced. 850+- total for their work. plaining the block cleaning it boring the block 20 over stock pollishing crank. installing the block guard and main studs. Not bad I could do all except machining it myself but I trust them more.
     
  11. labe lincoln

    labe lincoln New Member

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    I believe with stage two cams and dual valve springs, intake and exhaust manifolds and larger mm throttle body bigger injectors, fuel pump, good tune I should make around 200+ hp. Im getting the skunk 2 hondata ecu also.
     
  12. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Doesn't have anything to do with the oil pump.

    Lightened pulleys throw off the balance of the crank, causing abnormal vibrations that you probably won't be able to detect until its too late.
     
  13. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    Balance is not the issue, and it has everything to do with the oil pump. The gear pump is connected directly to the crankshaft, thus the vibrations go directly to the gear. Many people that have damaged engines due to lightened pulleys have failure related to oiling problems.

    Vibration from improper balance and torsional vibration is different. Improper balance would cause the engine to shake and whatnot(pretty much shakes whatever is holding it in place). Torsional vibration is similar to striking a metal object but it vibrates in a circular, or torsional, manner. A perfectly balanced motor can still suffer from torsional vibration.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2009
  14. labe lincoln

    labe lincoln New Member

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    im trying to find stock harmonic ballancer, and the aftermarket is cheaper. anyone have one for cheaper or for trade. I think im just gonna go with the stock harmonic ballancer but mine has a huge chip taken off of it. Need a new one. I just don't think a lightened harmonic ballancer is really gonna help me much. What about a lightweight flywheel. Im thinking of going with F1 stage 3 clutch and lw flywheel. any word on that is it safe?
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2009
  15. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    Lightweight flywheels are safe, they should be SFI approved though. In general, ~12lb is considered good for drag while lighter is more recommended towards road course.

    Have you tried checking ebay for a pulley?
     
  16. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    I understand that about the oil pump, I misread what he was saying I think.

    I've always been told that it'd throw the balance off in such a way that the crank would kinda rock back and forth inside the main bearings, causing excessive wear. Kind of difficult to grasp without it actually happening lol
     
  17. labe lincoln

    labe lincoln New Member

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    okay I bought a used crank pulley today its stock so Im pretty sure I should be safe there. Someone told me today to go with a dry sump oil system or something like that? with an electric oil pump. I don't think I wanna do that its money I don't wanna spend but he said it would eliminat any worries about the oil pump and I could gain 20+ hp. anyone know about that? and how it works. ive got somewhat of an idea.
     
  18. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    You don't need a dry sump system. Also, the dry sump systems available for Honda's are belt-driven by the engine.

    As far as the gains go, I'd doubt that and it's debateable depending on the application.

    Here's a diagram of the Moroso unit:
    [​IMG]

    And general diagram"
    [​IMG]
     
  19. BrokenRex

    BrokenRex New Member

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    btw, a full dry-sump oil system will set you back anywhere from 3k to 10k+. not worth it unless you're road racing and building to the absolute limit of the rule book. LOTS of cheaper ways to make 5-10whp. granted, dry sumps do have advantages, but their disadvantages outweigh them for pretty much all but the rich.
     
  20. GoTeamVentures2000si

    GoTeamVentures2000si New Member

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    So i know from what i gather from the people i've talked to the problem with underdrive pulleys is that it can wear out the alternator prematurely. No one said anything about wearing out the bearings or damaging the oil pump.
    (btw im talking about putting it on a b16a)

    sorry about my wording.. this is technically a question but was worded poorly.. also the pulley im talking about looks basically like this ... if that helps.

    [​IMG]
     
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