Buildin a Civic for my bro

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lmao

basically the reason everyone is telling you to go lower compression is because it is easier to tune, with the turbo your going to be raising compression with the more boost pressure the engine will be taking in. lower compression will run @ lower cyl temps = less possibility of (pre-ignition, detonation) and with lower compression you can still run 93 oct pump gas and make good hp numbers.

high compression is a lot harder to tune. But most full drag hondas you see out there will not be running pump gas, therefor can run higher compression, higher octane (c16), & more boost(psi) and make high HP numbers. just an FYI

8:1-9.2:1 comp is ideal
 
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lmao

basically the reason everyone is telling you to go lower compression is because it is easier to tune, with the turbo your going to be raising compression with the more boost pressure the engine will be taking in. lower compression will run @ lower cyl temps = less possibility of (pre-ignition, detonation) and with lower compression you can still run 93 oct pump gas and make good hp numbers.

high compression is a lot harder to tune. But most full drag hondas you see out there will not be running pump gas, therefor can run higher compression, higher octane (c16), & more boost(psi) and make high HP numbers. just an FYI

8:1-9.2:1 comp is ideal
ill be back for more info lol so with a 9:1 ill be alright without turbo? cause ima drive it til i can afford to get the turbo kit
 
OP: You said you have the GSR swap already? 4K is plenty to build a bottom end. I can get a B18C1 block built with rods/pistons/OEM bearings/ARP head studs and rod bolts for $2400-2600. This is paying about $400 for a block and a speciality shop putting it together. Now that isn't sleeved but add that addition adn you MAY be able to piece together a turbo kit. Piping, Intercooler, BOV, wastegate/fuel pump/boost control/turbo timer can all be purchased used...all the time. A new actual turbo would be best in comparison to a used turbo. You can even find used injectors and have them checked/balanced/cleaned. But there Engine Management issues and a tune that will run $300-500+ (for the dyno tune...not EM)

Is your heart set on built and turbo? I'm guessing he wants to drag race...not road race (b/c you said turbo)
 
OP: You said you have the GSR swap already? 4K is plenty to build a bottom end. I can get a B18C1 block built with rods/pistons/OEM bearings/ARP head studs and rod bolts for $2400-2600. This is paying about $400 for a block and a speciality shop putting it together. Now that isn't sleeved but add that addition adn you MAY be able to piece together a turbo kit. Piping, Intercooler, BOV, wastegate/fuel pump/boost control/turbo timer can all be purchased used...all the time. A new actual turbo would be best in comparison to a used turbo. You can even find used injectors and have them checked/balanced/cleaned. But there Engine Management issues and a tune that will run $300-500+ (for the dyno tune...not EM)

Is your heart set on built and turbo? I'm guessing he wants to drag race...not road race (b/c you said turbo)
to be honest im not set on anything im open for opinions on what i should do for price. i can get my money back on the swap cause it is a buddy of mine that i got it from. if i got the money back i would have 5600 total but i would now need to purchase a swap. so if u have another idea please let me know cause im open to all.
 
You can drive the car on lower compression. but it will run very slow. The motor was intended to be used with higher compression(oem). Dropping the compression will drop your HP. Thats until you get the turbo, that will make up for the compression loss
 
You can drive the car on lower compression. but it will run very slow. The motor was intended to be used with higher compression(oem). Dropping the compression will drop your HP. Thats until you get the turbo, that will make up for the compression loss
the sounds of it is i might not be givin him shit lmao if im spending this much im just gonna keep it and let him be jelous lol
 
lol youll prob like the out come of the low comp. with the turbo... you wont want to stop driving it
 
buy a GSR with a spun rod bearing for dirt cheap, strip it down, junk the internals, buy a LS crank, buy forged LS rods, whatever pistons you want and stroke that GSR. If you want to go crazy you can send your block to golden eagle and get the block sleeved up to 85mm.

send the head over to JG and get a pro series valve job for $750. they change stock valves to SS valves, they add duel valve spring, titanium retainers, valve steams, and valve steam seals.

pick your poison on pistons and cams.

now you have a built block and a built head that is ready for a lot of abuse.

of course you will need upper and lower gasket kits, main and rod bearings, and what not. I would use all OEM stuff. Hondapartsunlimited.com has great prices.

of course you will need a turbo, intercooler, intake mani, turbo manifold, and last but not least something to tune your set up. Hondata, neptune, crome, ect ect.
 
First off I skipped over a bunch of this, so if Im repeating someone I apologize. With that being said, I would get the lowest mile GSR swap you could find and call it good. Maybe do some routine maintenance kinda stuff to it if need be. From there, that 4 grand would go into a nice turbo setup and stuff like suspension and brake, since youll need em anyways. Once youve got it all togather, get a damn good tune. A stock GSR will handle ~350 horse all day long, and thats a lot for a street car.

Thats a very solid starting point, and since you didnt skimp on stuff like the turbo, drivetrain and suspension you wont be replacing cheap parts every time you turn around.

With a budget, and a tight one at that, its always better to give up power for the sake of buyin higher quality parts.
 
8:1 is going to be a TURD out of boost.

run the factory compression for a gsr. if you can afford to get the gsr in there that is.
my advice would be to stick with the D you have in the car right now, and build it from there
pretty nice turbo setup can be had for 2k, leaving you with 2k to get the bottom end built for it and also some traction parts so this power youre making isnt useless

or you could have a semi-built gsr with a mediocre turbo setup, and be spinning the tires everywhere
your choice
but 4k is NOT going to get you a fully built/boosted gsr into a civic
 
Whats the miles on the swap you bought? Fro $1600 that a decent deal but the miles and its past may come into play. Built bottom for turbo and such is nice. Turbo on the car and its above 400whp which is not as fun to drive on the street as many may think. Its a handfull and you can't really even mess with 1st and 2nd gear without spinning way out of control. And then there's the clutch....the axles and LSD trans (which these are MANDITORY at that level of hp). Plusa decent engine management and tune will be more extensive for sure.

I am a N/A guy. I see that motor having potential in all motor trim. If there's a ton of miles on the swap, I would rebuild with type r pistons and go all motor. Skunk2 Intake Manifold, Type R cams/springs/retainers or Skunk2 stage 2 cams (preferred for higher hp applications). Adj Cam gears, a nice replica header, chipped P28 and a tune. You can get really close to 200whp with this set up and have a nice reliable car. Thats whooping Vettes, Camaros and Muffstanks all day long....on street tires. Just my opinion though
 
If you already have a GSR motor, just drop it in. spend the 4k on the turbo and fuel management stuff.
will be able to run 250-300 reliably all day when tuned correctly with properly injectors and a tuning solution like crome or hondata/etc.
 
i didn't even read half the crap posted.

imho, if you have $4000 and want a good car for him.

b18b swap-$1500
cheap turbo kit or supercharger-$2000

then clean up the car. get a decent set of stock intra wheels, some $200 springs to lower it and just make it look good. once you crack open the engine, you get into a whole different level of build. a stock b18b with a little boost makes a phenomenal honda.
 
Whats the miles on the swap you bought? Fro $1600 that a decent deal but the miles and its past may come into play. Built bottom for turbo and such is nice. Turbo on the car and its above 400whp which is not as fun to drive on the street as many may think. Its a handfull and you can't really even mess with 1st and 2nd gear without spinning way out of control. And then there's the clutch....the axles and LSD trans (which these are MANDITORY at that level of hp). Plusa decent engine management and tune will be more extensive for sure.

I am a N/A guy. I see that motor having potential in all motor trim. If there's a ton of miles on the swap, I would rebuild with type r pistons and go all motor. Skunk2 Intake Manifold, Type R cams/springs/retainers or Skunk2 stage 2 cams (preferred for higher hp applications). Adj Cam gears, a nice replica header, chipped P28 and a tune. You can get really close to 200whp with this set up and have a nice reliable car. Thats whooping Vettes, Camaros and Muffstanks all day long....on street tires. Just my opinion though
actually the miles on it are really low 43k driven pretty easy it was out of my buddies moms car lol
 
if you have a gsr swap already, get that done first. then see how much cash you have left. a gsr coupe is a fantastic start.

before boost, i would make the car look good. wheels, suspension, check all the maintenence items. maybe get a cheap paint job.
 
if you have a gsr swap already, get that done first. then see how much cash you have left. a gsr coupe is a fantastic start.

before boost, i would make the car look good. wheels, suspension, check all the maintenence items. maybe get a cheap paint job.
i guess i really shouldnt of quoted u on this one but if i do just drop in the gsr and dont have it built for the turbo right off the back how hard would it be to have it built once its in the engine bay?
 
You'd have to take it out again for a rebuild (well...not Have To but...yes it would need to come out)
 
if you have a low mileage gsr, i wouldnt' build it for boost. add a good inake, header, exhaust, and tune and you have a great car. people really underestimate how good of a car it really is.

it takes about 1-2 hours to pull a b-series. but like i said before, if you build it for extreme boost, you start adding on a shitload of money. and you will go far over your budget. especially if you arent' doing the labor yourself.

again, swap the engine. get a few bolt ons and clean it up. you'll have a killer car for a great price.
 
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