Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by Capt. Orygun, May 17, 2003.
I've heard from both sides on the reliability of this setup, what do you guys think??
The b20 has a siamese sleeve design that is prone to cracking between cylinders with any kind of detonation at anything over 250ish HP.
Look at the arrow in this pic from Honda-Tech.
ahhhh, so even resleved the danger still exists??
new sleeves should be more stronger. ex: the aebs sleeves are tested to 55psi, and they have sleeves for b20 block.
But if you are planning to sleeve a block, you can get a B18A/B block for less money than a B20.
even though i know what you are talkign about, i still can't find a damn arrow. lol
cylinder #3 starting from bottom cylinder of pic.
Look dead center of the pic, then go up and left slightly. Little arrows are on the cylinder walls.
will the B20 block match right up to the B16 head or is there other stuff involved too?
It's a good idea to have the combustion chambers of the b16a head opened up the extra 3mm so that the piston will not hit the head. And local machine shop SHOULD be competent to simply enlarge the combustion chamber.
It's not REQUIRED, but the piston has been seen to hit the head, and cause headgasket sealing issues, and, of course, noise.
ok, got it
i would have it opened up to be on the safe side.
okay, I've emailed a company which resleeves b20s for boosting. The lady says when the "deck" the block they can include an O-ring which is good for NOS or Turbo, turbo being the EVENTUAL idea behind this line of logic. SO....
1.) how much can I get a bare none B20 block for &
2.) what is "decking", and what will that O-ring do for me specifically?
Thnx in advance
decking is when they add a little ,uhh, platform thingy, hard to describe but look at a picture of the aebs sleeves, and youll notice they cover the coolant area. they help make the cylinder much stronger. the o-ring creates a better seal around the cylinder. keeps pressure from escaping in high-boost apps.
If you're going to sleeve the damn thing, then why did you spend the extra cheese on the b20 in the first place?!
Seriously, unless you just want bragging rights for having a sleeved b20, I'd trade someone with a b18b short block + $100-$300 depending on the condition, and walk away a richer, happy man.
The b18a/b and b20b/z blocks are, for all intents and purposes, IDENTICAL once you've had it sleeved.
okay, I don't get it. Infact I'm downright confussed....
how is 2.0=1.8
besides if I wanted LS/VTEC I could have bought an LS
because a crv IS an LS only, the crv is 84mm bore, and the ls is 81mm bore
once the ls is 84mm bore after sleeve job, you have the exact same thing as a crv bottom end, only 432234343% stronger
so is an LSVTEC just an LS block w' a B16 head??
ls bottom/ vtec head- be it gsr/b16/itr/ctr head, some oil line/drilling and thats about it
You know, we have a big post in the FAQ about building that engine...
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