Code p0172, fuel system too rich

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just realized... i never reset the ecu after changing the o2 sensor.. so thats what i'm doing now **crosses fingers**

correct way is warm up car, shut if off, pull ecu and backup fuses from under hood fuse box for 15 min, replace and let car idle for 10-15 min without touching the gas right?
 
ecu reset has been done... runs much better

on the warm-up drive it died twice on me and acted like it was going to die every time i came to a stop... after the ecu reset, not once did it do that.. only wants to die if i barely tap the gas repeatedly now
 
just realized... i never reset the ecu after changing the o2 sensor.. so thats what i'm doing now **crosses fingers**

correct way is warm up car, shut if off, pull ecu and backup fuses from under hood fuse box for 15 min, replace and let car idle for 10-15 min without touching the gas right?
correct.
 
thinking it really needs a valve adjustment... only because one has never been done in over 100k miles, if ever.. lol.. she bought it with 20,000 miles on it, has close to 160k now

other than oil changes it hasnt been maintained as it should
 
I keep wondering if I should do a valve adjustment on my beater... but then I keep driving it. Lol. Been following this thread but haven't commented on it yet, hope you got your problems figured out finally @eg6sir.
 
not yet.. texted Jen asking if it runs any better.. she said its about the same... she didnt mention if its dying or not though
 
If you haven't installed the gasket kit, maybe check the mechanical timing but I really doubt it's the issue. I also doubt it's in the valve adjustment. To cause that hesitation, I can't see the adjustment falling out of spec that much. But adjusting them would be a good idea with valve cover coming off.

Those GSR heads are cumbersome to get tools into. You probably know they make a tool for adjusting valves but you can also weld an old wrench and a deep socket 10mm together. It works well. Also....feeler gauges that have the 30 degree bend in them makes things easier. Not sure how your hip is doing. I know my back is angry after I sit over a car for that long.

Have you checked volts on the TPS yet? They seem to fail like crazy with K-series but it seems B-series hold up better.
 
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its definitely running better... changed out the fuel filter this morning too since its been way too long since its been replaced.. at least 8 yrs, lol

not exactly sure how to work a volt meter.. lol.. so no, i havent checked the tps yet
 
there are other more detailed videos as well that will walk you through how to do damn near anything
 
was thinking about the injector thing... started to suspect that.... but then thought, if an injector was dumping fuel into one of the cylinders then i would have seen it on the plugs.. or am i wrong?
 
I agree.

Volt meter option is a pretty easy one to work with. Ground one and poke the other through the correct wire. It's kinda hard to poke through the insulating cover though. Might be easier to make contact on the ECU plug. I used a sewing needle near the sensor and it was a bitch.
 
Injector cleaner and replace TPS. With the miles it's ready for full tune up like you did and replacement of suspect sensors. Many times it's cumulative and not any one thing specific. @160K miles, the injectors could be well past injector cleaner. They can both dribble at idle and not flow enough at speed or you could have some combination with some cylinders rich and others lean.

Let us not forget the timing belt and water pump. Yeah, yeah, yeah, I've driven several 160k+ wrecks around so, done this drill before..... :)

EDIT: PUT SOME ANTI-SIEZE ON THE SPARK PLUGS.
 
timing belt, water pump, and tensioner was done at 100k, everything looked brand new when replaced.. lol.. used a Gates Racing (blue) belt
 
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