ok i am looking into building a crvtec and i am thinking of getting a dart 2.0l block. the block has an increased deck height of 226mm. its going to have a 84.5mm bore and a 95mm stroke and i figured out that using as close to a 166.3mm rod that that should get my rod ratio close to 1.75:1. what would you guys suggest i use for the crank?
crvtec monster
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BseriesKllR
Senior Member
B16a
B20A crank? Not sure if it matches up with the journals on the recent B blocks, but the stroke and bore spacing should be correct.
Forged.
simplyfast
Senior Member
i hope this build just isnt for street, cause if so, you may need to think about over kill.
i would also suggest going to this little site called theoldone.com. they actually can take you thru a build up of a crvtec.
i might be a newbie to the board, but it would be a helluva lot cheaper to buy a b20 block for no more than $50 from a junkyard, then buy darton sleeves, take it to a machine shop and have them drop the sleeves in. if you went that route, you wouldnt even spend more than $900, half the price of the dart block. the dart block is also a heavy bastard to drop into your car, so expect that.
i would also suggest going to this little site called theoldone.com. they actually can take you thru a build up of a crvtec.
i might be a newbie to the board, but it would be a helluva lot cheaper to buy a b20 block for no more than $50 from a junkyard, then buy darton sleeves, take it to a machine shop and have them drop the sleeves in. if you went that route, you wouldnt even spend more than $900, half the price of the dart block. the dart block is also a heavy bastard to drop into your car, so expect that.
92civicb18b1
The Trisexual
there is no b series block you'll get for 50 bucks unless it has some major damage. That would be a good setup for the track but like simplyfast said its overkill for the street. I'd just reccomend a turbo gsr, gsr bottem end, b16 head, if you want get some darton sleeves bored to 84 mm. Just whatever you do man, do it right.
simplyfast
Senior Member
well maybe where you live you cant get a b series for $50, but where i live im sure i can get a b20 for $50. i mean, i was able to buy a long block b16 for $300. it all comes down on how you talk to the guy at the junkyard.
but im glad someone seconded what i said. a dart block is for serious race applications. i mean, those blocks can withstand 40psi and 100 shot nos. it is not practical for a daily driver to have such a block.
id suggest gettin a d series engine, get a turbo from an old eclipse, hx exhaust manifold, and all other necessary hardware from a junkyard or used parts depo.
but im glad someone seconded what i said. a dart block is for serious race applications. i mean, those blocks can withstand 40psi and 100 shot nos. it is not practical for a daily driver to have such a block.
id suggest gettin a d series engine, get a turbo from an old eclipse, hx exhaust manifold, and all other necessary hardware from a junkyard or used parts depo.
I think Golden Eagle could help you out. Not sure if they're on their site but you could contact them.
www.goldeneaglemfg.com
www.goldeneaglemfg.com
liquid00meth
Senior Member
uhh I don't think he is going to go from a Dart cr/vtec to a boosted D series. lol.
I was going to say b20 crank. ditto on the forged not billet, and also, if your going to have the dart block anyways. Might as well go crvtec/T right? A little t3/t4 .75 A/R on about 15 psi sounds good to me If your staying with just the cr/vtec n/a though, that block is absolutely indestructible. I would almost also lean to a sleeved block.
I was going to say b20 crank. ditto on the forged not billet, and also, if your going to have the dart block anyways. Might as well go crvtec/T right? A little t3/t4 .75 A/R on about 15 psi sounds good to me
If your staying with just the cr/vtec n/a though, that block is absolutely indestructible. I would almost also lean to a sleeved block.simplyfast
Senior Member
a b20 is indestructable? maybe you should do some reading bout them blocks. endyn recommends posting that block before doing anything remotely extreme.
why would 15psi be better than a b20 with 10.5:1 runnin 10psi?
if you want to have an extremely effecient turbo setup, you go high compression/low boost. the engine has to do less work, the charge is cooler, and you reach full boost quicker.
why would 15psi be better than a b20 with 10.5:1 runnin 10psi?
if you want to have an extremely effecient turbo setup, you go high compression/low boost. the engine has to do less work, the charge is cooler, and you reach full boost quicker.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the whole high compression, low boost only applies at small ammounts. He would be much better off at 9.1:1 and 15 psi than 10.5:1 with 10psi if I'm not mistaken, because the 5 extra psi will out gain the efficiency savings. Feel free to disagree, but I'd like to hear form a few other people who see it the same way as you. Oh and when Liquid00Meth was saying that the B20 block was indestructable, he meant the dart B20 block too.
92civicb18b1
The Trisexual
i also think that low compression/higher boost is the way to go, it'll be easier to tune, why don't we all just agree on medium compression/medium boost (10:1/10 psi [depending on the turbo])
liquid00meth
Senior Member
Ok, I don't know how many times your mom dropped you, but
a.) I was talking about a Dart block not an OEM b20. I was going to reccomend the b20 crank
b.) I was just saying 15psi for instance.
c.) I don't know where you learned about turbo, but you only reach "full boost" quicker because your running less boost, and running high compression low boost only creates a headache when tuning the motor. The motor is almost bound to detonate. And yea, the charge is cooler, until it's slammed to high compression and, well, detonates. And the engine doesn't have to do less work, the engine does the same work. As you add boost, you lower compression. Thats how it works. There is a limit to how much boost you can add to a certain compression before you are limited by the gas you use. Yea, high comp + boost is great for low boost where 93 octance and tuning can handle the job. But eventually, there is no pump gas that can handle the boost + compression once either is raised to a certain level. Thats why high boost cars usually drop their compression below 9. And I'd go into more detail with physics, but it's a moot point. Read the article on Static vs. Effective compression if your interested.
the bottom line is he wasn't even talking about boost. All I said was that if he was going to invest in a DART block, that he might aswell go forced induction because that block is overkill for his n/a application. Thats all.
sheesh.
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