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D16z6 question

Discussion in 'Civic and del Sol - EG and EK' started by newsol, Sep 14, 2009.

  1. newsol

    newsol New Member

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    So heres the deal. I went and got my del sol today and have called gods country trying to find a d16z6 motor and have yet to find one. Talked to a guy though that has a y8 motor and says theyll swap right out.
    I know the y8 is obd2 and mine is obd1. My real question is can i get the y8 block put my head on it and keep the obd1 or am i goin to have to change over anyways.

    Im trying to get this car rolling. Budget is to tight to try for the b-swap but im thinking turbo in the next six months just to liven things up.

    Any help would be appreciated. Or if someone has a z6 for sale decently cheap let me know. Im in oklahoma but im sure we can work sumthin out for the right deal. Thanks guys.
     
  2. serrilion

    serrilion In my own little world! VIP

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    pm me what u need! i got a d16z6 lol
     
  3. newsol

    newsol New Member

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    Cant figure out the pm thing. Guess im to old for this shit after all. Or can anyone point me to a decent builder- machine shop that might give me a hand rebuilding this z6
     
  4. newsol

    newsol New Member

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    In the oklahoma area
     
  5. serrilion

    serrilion In my own little world! VIP

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    google works wonders
     
  6. newsol

    newsol New Member

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    Ive tried iming you and it says your offline Yeh google is wonderful the couple ive called are talking bout 2200 to rebuild the motor
     
  7. josh_crewdson@y

    josh_crewdson@y New Member

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    Y8 bolts right in. A few more horses too.. All your sensors and accessories will bolt up.
     
  8. RoughKnight

    RoughKnight Christmas Car

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    even the D15B is good, little more on the fuel saving side but nice top end kick like usual
     
  9. newsol

    newsol New Member

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    Hey roughknight

    You say the d15b will also bolt right up to the z6 head and let me keep all my electronic stock?
     
  10. prpprimo

    prpprimo Hondaholic

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    The Y8 motor will interchange. You will need to swap the mount above the pullies, intake and distributor. Basically keep all your components obd1.
     
  11. Eclaire

    Eclaire New Member

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    I have a D16Z6 motor. Moore Oklahoma. It runs good. I just bought a B16 that I want to swap out. You interested?
     
  12. Eclaire

    Eclaire New Member

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    Oh geez, I can't seem to edit my message. I don't know what parts you need specifically, but the whole motor is avail and will probably be easier to just switch out your parts for parts instead of trying to figure out the Y8 conversion. Oh well, email me at eclaire.superpastry@gmail.com
     
  13. RoughKnight

    RoughKnight Christmas Car

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    how much for that b16 motor and everything?
    [/mini-threadjacking]

    The d15b will not bolt up to the z6, but for 500ish you could get the full motor which produces good power and reliability, and you can sell the z6 for probably half or more than half of the price of the new motor.

    just my 0.02 cents
     
  14. Eclaire

    Eclaire New Member

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    It was $1100, a little pricey IMO, but I'm ready to get moving along with my project car with haste.
     
  15. serrilion

    serrilion In my own little world! VIP

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    New, I'll be on most of the night im yanking that motor tomarrow... aim- serrilion, yahoo- ccbserrilion and msn, serrilion1@hotmail.com.... ttyt i'd let the motor go cheap like 200 bucks
     
  16. RoughKnight

    RoughKnight Christmas Car

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    that d16 is a good deal dude, you should really consider it
     
  17. Manny 77

    Manny 77 New Member

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    you need to use your DPFI engine harness and make the MPFI wiring changes to it - the changes include adding the wiring for the injectors to the harness, adding injector wiring from the ECU and adding the wiring for the cylinder sensor at the distributor

    ECU WIRING CHANGES
    1. You will need a couple of 'B' or 'C' ECU connector wiring pins with short piece of wire for adding wiring to the ECU.
    2. The following changes need to be made to your original DPFI chassis harness where it plugged into the ECU.
    3. De-pin the Orange wire at ECU pin C1 and re-pin it to ECU pin B10, which should be empty.
    4. De-pin the White wire at ECU pin C2 and re-pin it to ECU pin B12, which should be empty. If there is a wire at B12, just de-pin it and leave it.
    5. Cut the Yellow wire at ECU pin A3 and leave a short piece of wire on the ECU connector. Leave the wire still in the harness not connected to anything. Splice a new wire to the short piece of wire remaining in the ECU connector. This wire needs to be long enough to be routed with the harness out to the engine bay and reach the injectors. Label this wire A3.
    6. Cut the Red wire at ECU pin A7 and leave a short piece of wire on the ECU connector. Leave the wire still in the harness not connected to anything. Splice a new wire to the short piece of wire remaining in the ECU connector. This wire needs to be long enough to be routed with the harness out to the engine bay and reach the injectors. Label this wire A7.
    7. Using the pins with short piece of wire from Step 1 above, insert one pin into the 'C' connector at C1 and insert one pin into the 'C' connector at C2. Splice a new wire to each of these short wires and run them out to the engine bay to the distributor. Label the wires C1 and C2 respectively.
    8. This completes the ECU wiring changes.

    UNDER THE HOOD WIRING CHANGES
    First, you are going to need to rob some connectors from the OBD1 engine harness. Specifically, they are the injector wiring, the distributor connector and the connector for the cooling fan switch.

    INJECTOR WIRING
    1. For the injector wiring, cut the tape and remove the black plastic wire looming and you will find that the injector wiring is a separate harness all to itself. This harness will need to be added to your DPFI engine harness as follows.
    2. Each injector clip has two (2) wires going to it. The injectors are numbered the same as the cylinders, i.e. #1 closest to timing belt and #4 closest to the distributor. The injector clip for injector #1 has a Brown wire and a Red/Black wire, #2 has a Red wire and a Red/Black wire, #3 has a Light Blue wire and a Red/Black wire and #4 has a Yellow wire and a Red/Black wire.
    3. Cut all of the wires close to the connector at the end of the injector harness opposite from the injectors.
    4. On the DPFI harness, there are two (2) fuel injector connectors, one is a Brown connector with Red and Yellow/Black wires and the other is a Green connector with Yellow and Yellow/Black wires. Cut the wires for these connectors as close to the connectors as you can.
    5. Find all four (4) of the Red/Black wires coming from the injector clips along with the two (2) Yellow/Black wires that went to the DPFI injectors and connect all six (6) of these wires together.
    6. Connect the Yellow wire that went to the Green DPFI injector connector to the Brown wire at injector #1.
    7. Connect the Red wire that went to the Brown DPFI injector connector to the Light Blue wire at injector #3.
    8. Find the wire from the ECU labeled A3 and connect it to the Red wire at injector #2.
    9. Find the wire from the ECU labeled A7 and connect it to the Yellow wire at injector #4.

    IACV WIRING
    1. The IACV connector on the DPFI engine harness is a Green connector with Blue/Yellow and Black/Yellow wires. You need to extend these wires, by cutting each and adding a short piece of wire, so that the connector will reach the IACV on the MPFI engine, which is on the back of the intake manifold.

    THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR WIRING
    1. The TPS connector has three (3) wires, Yellow/White, Green/White and Red/Blue. You will also need to extend these wires so that the connector will reach the TPS on the MPFI throttle body. When you are extending these wires, switch the position of the Yellow/White and Green/White wires so that the Yellow/White from the harness is connected to the Green/White on the connector and the Green/White from the harness is connected to the Yellow/White on the connector. This is because the TPS on the MPFI rotates opposite from the TPS on the DPFI.

    COOLING FAN SWITCH WIRING
    1. The cooling fan switch on the OBD1 engine is located on the thermostat housing and is on the back of the block next to the oil filter on the OBD0 engine. You need to cut the wires at the OBD0 connector which has a big round black rubber boot on it. The wire colors are Yellow/Green and Black. Splice the connector that you robbed from the OBD1 harness onto these wires. Color doesn't matter, as it is just a switch to ground.

    MAP SENSOR WIRING
    1. The OBD0 car had the MAP sensor mounted on the firewall where the OBD1 engine has the MAP sensor on top of the throttle body. The MAP sensor connector is not on the OBD0 engine harness, but is on the chassis harness. You need to extend the three (3) wires for the MAP sensor connector so that it will reach the MAP on the throttle body.

    OBD0 TO OBD1 ECU JUMPER HARNESS
    1. If your jumper is for a VTEC engine, then the wiring should already be there. If not, you will need to run the necessary wires to the ECU.
    2. If your jumper harness included the wiring for the 4-wire O2 sensor, you are good to go. If not, you will need to add wiring.

    DISTRIBUTOR WIRING
    1. If you purchased an OBD0 to OBD1 distributor jumper, you are good to go. If not, you will need to splice the connector from the OBD1 engine harness onto the DPFI engine harness.
    __________________
    ZCspeed Racing

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  18. newsol

    newsol New Member

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    Thats a steal on that motor. But ive already picked up one the ok area. :)
     
  19. RoughKnight

    RoughKnight Christmas Car

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    ^^ wtf does that even have to do with the thread?
     
  20. serrilion

    serrilion In my own little world! VIP

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    Manny just made my head hurt.... not nice!, on the motor glad u found 1, I sold mine, now im thinking of stealing yellows D16a1 lmao
     
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