I have a 2000 Acura 4 door EL with a H22A4 engine swap.Upgrades include a skunk 2 pro series throttle body....skunk 2 pro series exhaust system....DC sports headers and downpipe......AEM direct cold air intake....B&M fuel pressure regulator....light weight fly wheel and clutch kit.....Hi-flow fuel pump. My car was running perfectly fine up until 3 days ago when i replaced the origional intake manifold with a pro series Skunk 2 intake manifold. Install went well with slight massaging of the firewall to create the needed space. PROBLEM: Wont cold start. Check engine codes are #3 and # 5 which are related to the MAP sensor. And #14 which is the I.A.C. Tried swapping vac lines..coolant lines.adjusting idle control. The instruction that came with the intake upgrade states "ECU upgrade required for vehicles already using OBD2" What does this mean? Should I be converting back to OBD 1 using a neptune system or somthing of the sort? PLEASE HELP.
ECU problems after replacing stock intake manifold with a skunk pro series for a H22A
- Thread starter Fly Rye
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Added note: VTEC will not engage at all while these codes are being thrown out. As well my diagnostic tool would not read at all. I had to use a paperclip and jump the OBD to read out manually using short and long flashes on the check engine light. Thats how i got the codes. Also Code #14 can at tiems refer to a bad ECU ive been told? Does this mean my computer could be shot now?
hondafreak513
Well-Known Member
Which ecu are you using..
hondafreak513
Well-Known Member
It all depends you don't have to have a prelude ecu, it could be a chipped p28... look at it and see what it is..
hondafreak513
Well-Known Member
Yes, do you know where the ecu is? It has a big label on it, get the last six numbers and letters..
I believe the ECU is located under the passanger side dashboard behind a wall cover. Ill check frst thing in the morning since my car is at my shop right now. Ill post the last 6 numbers and letters as soon i have them.
Thanks a ton hondafreak for the help. Ill keep ya posted!
Thanks a ton hondafreak for the help. Ill keep ya posted!
hondafreak513
Well-Known Member
no problem, but yeah it sits the same way the door is behind the carpet..
Found it
Looks like the previous owner who did the engine swap did sumthing with the comp. It has writing all over it with a black marker that states "P28 Moded" What does this mean? Was it moded for the old setup without my new intake manifold. Would this need to be re-tuned because of my new manifold? Futhermore would this explain why I am gettin those error codes?
On the instructions for the Skunk2 manifold it says " Possible ECU upgrade required for vehicles using OBD2"
I called Skunk2 directly and they recommend using OBD1 to maximize performance with this upgrade.
Im still totally lost and the car is running like garbage. Suggestions?
Looks like the previous owner who did the engine swap did sumthing with the comp. It has writing all over it with a black marker that states "P28 Moded" What does this mean? Was it moded for the old setup without my new intake manifold. Would this need to be re-tuned because of my new manifold? Futhermore would this explain why I am gettin those error codes?
On the instructions for the Skunk2 manifold it says " Possible ECU upgrade required for vehicles using OBD2"
I called Skunk2 directly and they recommend using OBD1 to maximize performance with this upgrade.
Im still totally lost and the car is running like garbage. Suggestions?
hondafreak513
Well-Known Member
It will be fine with the chipped p28 just go get it retuned for the new intake manifold. And yes it is better to run obd1 easier to tune..
Well i just got off the phone with a tuning shop called Teknotik out of toronto ontario. Teknotik.com Im thinking of taking it to them to see what the hell is wrong and get it re-tuned. I really hope im not wasting more time and money..lmao
If you got any other ides please send them my way..or if u know of any other great tuning shops in the GTA let me know as well.
THANKS HONDAFREAK
Honda 4 Life
hondafreak513
Well-Known Member
Is the FITV still on the car. It is located under the throttle body and will have a coolant line ran to it.. This controls the cold starting of the car..
More Info for ya.....
My car does not have the FITV on it. The previous owner had put a skunk2 pro series throttle body on it already with the origional intake manifold. I do not see a coolant line in the area you are describing. As well (im not sure if this helps at all with this puzzle) but my car does not have a EGR on it as well. The new intake says to bypass it completely. When we did this we noticed that it wasnt even hooked up at all since I owned the car. It was jsut sitting there for "show" pretty much.
My car does not have the FITV on it. The previous owner had put a skunk2 pro series throttle body on it already with the origional intake manifold. I do not see a coolant line in the area you are describing. As well (im not sure if this helps at all with this puzzle) but my car does not have a EGR on it as well. The new intake says to bypass it completely. When we did this we noticed that it wasnt even hooked up at all since I owned the car. It was jsut sitting there for "show" pretty much.
hondafreak513
Well-Known Member
Ahh I just thought about it but I don't think that year had a FITV... Did you ask the tuner if he thought it needed retuned after putting on the new manifold.. Also did you put bigger injectors in it or does it just have a bigger fuel pump..
The car has a hi-flow fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator.
I have now been in contact with the guys at Teknotik.com and they say it should be retuned. They have also told me that my car must be OBD1 already since the only way to read codes is with a paperclip jumping on the connecter. They feel that my car definately has the P28 converted to OBD1 with a jumper harness and OBD1 ECU. Which may explain why many of the sensors werent being used? They say it can also be called OBD2B?
Also more info.... My car seems to run much better and idol stabilizes faster when I un-plug my MAP sensor. If i plug it back in, the car will barely start let alone idol at all. What could this mean? Starting to feel a good tuning is in order?
I have now been in contact with the guys at Teknotik.com and they say it should be retuned. They have also told me that my car must be OBD1 already since the only way to read codes is with a paperclip jumping on the connecter. They feel that my car definately has the P28 converted to OBD1 with a jumper harness and OBD1 ECU. Which may explain why many of the sensors werent being used? They say it can also be called OBD2B?
Also more info.... My car seems to run much better and idol stabilizes faster when I un-plug my MAP sensor. If i plug it back in, the car will barely start let alone idol at all. What could this mean? Starting to feel a good tuning is in order?
hondafreak513
Well-Known Member
OK yeah the p28 is obd1 so it has been converted the obd2b is what the car was originally.. My brain isn't clicking right, my kids have been stressing me out.. But thats weird that you unplugged the map sensor and it stayed running, and actually ran better.
first thing i would think of is vacuum leak from trying to install the intake in the car
second issues would be proper plumbing of map and iacv
and the mystery black box under the intake
check for an unhooked vac line or vacuum leak around intake
and also make sure you didnt switch the damn plugs for the map and iacv
second issues would be proper plumbing of map and iacv
and the mystery black box under the intake
check for an unhooked vac line or vacuum leak around intake
and also make sure you didnt switch the damn plugs for the map and iacv
Reckedracing
There seems to be no leaks around the intake or throttle body. we tested this obvously by opening the valve on a small propane torch with the car running. If there was a leak it would suck in the propane causing the car to rev up rapidly. All vac lines are plugged in. The plugs for the IACV and MAP dont seem to be reversed as well. Just to make sure I tried swtiching them just to see. The car would not run with them reversed. What i did find was that the car ran better with the MAP sensor unplugged. When i plug it back in the car dies. What could this mean?
There seems to be no leaks around the intake or throttle body. we tested this obvously by opening the valve on a small propane torch with the car running. If there was a leak it would suck in the propane causing the car to rev up rapidly. All vac lines are plugged in. The plugs for the IACV and MAP dont seem to be reversed as well. Just to make sure I tried swtiching them just to see. The car would not run with them reversed. What i did find was that the car ran better with the MAP sensor unplugged. When i plug it back in the car dies. What could this mean?
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