Guess what I got...Guess who has to pay for premium now
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dohcvtec_accord
WRX Sellout
It's VERY loud. A buddy of mine had one on his WRX. He was all about bling, so he didn't care.
With the silencer off, it was defeaning. With the silencer in, it was a bit quieter, but the loss of power was noticeable. It's also not resonated. In my opinion, not a good exhaust.I'd look at Vishnu, APS, TurboXS....all great exhausts with awesome sounds.
Also, an uppipe only takes that long if the people helping are inexperienced. A group of experienced guys can do it in a couple of hours.
Battle Pope
Well-Known Member
Deafening, eh? Deafening is good. 
dohcvtec_accord
WRX Sellout
Depends on your point of view. I like that my car looks near-stock, and almost sounds that way. I also like not getting harassed by the popos for noise violations.
Quoted post[/post]]
It's VERY loud. A buddy of mine had one on his WRX. He was all about bling, so he didn't care.
I'd look at Vishnu, APS, TurboXS....all great exhausts with awesome sounds.
Also, an uppipe only takes that long if the people helping are inexperienced. A group of experienced guys can do it in a couple of hours.
Bleh. Not what I wanted to hear. I wanted to hear it was one of the better performing exhausts and not just some noise tool.
I'm anti-bling and anti-rice, even though the car has the loud blitz exhaust and BOV that was already in place when I received the car.
dohcvtec_accord
WRX Sellout
Alot of it comes down to personal preference again. The Blitz exhaust is quieter with that silencer in, but I personally wouldn't want to sacrifice power to make a noisy exhaust quiet.
On the bright side, you can probably sell the Blitz exhaust to help fund something you'd like a little more.
Which BOV does it have on there?
On the bright side, you can probably sell the Blitz exhaust to help fund something you'd like a little more.
Which BOV does it have on there?
Quoted post[/post]]
Alot of it comes down to personal preference again. The Blitz exhaust is quieter with that silencer in, but I personally wouldn't want to sacrifice power to make a noisy exhaust quiet.
On the bright side, you can probably sell the Blitz exhaust to help fund something you'd like a little more.
Which BOV does it have on there?
I may do that, we shall see. Do the other exhaust systems that the vishnu system include uppipes and downpipes as well? Do they keep the standard 3 cats or take out a few and how much am I looking here. If I could sell the Blitz exhaust for like $300-$350 I might think about opting for a different exhaust.
The BOV is a GFB Blow off Valve.
Bah just found out that I'm moron and the cusco bar is a strut bar not a sway bar.
Also the car doesn't have an aftermarket uppipe or downpipe so that will probably be the next mod and its a kartboy short shifter kit with kartboy bushings that has the momo shift knob mated on it.
Looking into springs, strut bars, rims, uppipe, downpipe, endlinks, and possibly a CAI intake now. All used. Does anyone have any suggestions on what products to go for any of these?
I can get a set of eibach pro kit springs for $75 from the guy that I bought the car from. Good product or no? I've always heard good things about eibach.
I also can still get those 18inch Prodrive Oz rims with pirreli p1's with 75% tread for $800 from the previous owner still. I'm not sure if I want these because of their bling factor and being so heavy, I pretty much want the lighest rims that I can get in either bronze, gold, black, or gunmetal but do you think I can buy those rims and sell them for $1000?
As for sway bars, I figure a used cusco bar would be good.
Uppipe and downpipe I have no idea who to go with and if it takes 8 hours to install, I don't know who the fuck is going to install it for me because obviously it won't be a job for me to do.
Endlinks no idea once again.
CAI. No idea on which brand, but if I got the CAI would I be alright if I got reflashed from Cobb, rather than dyno tuned or am I still going to be running lean?
Lastly, do you think it matters if I piece everything together or should I try to stick with Cobb parts since if I get reflashed its going to be by Cobb.
-Do I buy a set of eibach pro kit springs for $75?
-Do I buy the 18in Prodrive Oz rims w/ pirrelli p1's for $800 and try to resell for $1000 (I don't know if I can get that much for them though).
-What brand uppipe and downpipe should I go for. The cheapest used one that I can find thats in good condition?
-If I get a reflash from Cobb after I do uppipe, downpipe and CAI for Stage 2 will I still be running lean?
-Most importantly do you think it matters if I piece everything together or should I just stick with one brand part?
Also the car doesn't have an aftermarket uppipe or downpipe so that will probably be the next mod and its a kartboy short shifter kit with kartboy bushings that has the momo shift knob mated on it.
Looking into springs, strut bars, rims, uppipe, downpipe, endlinks, and possibly a CAI intake now. All used. Does anyone have any suggestions on what products to go for any of these?
I can get a set of eibach pro kit springs for $75 from the guy that I bought the car from. Good product or no? I've always heard good things about eibach.
I also can still get those 18inch Prodrive Oz rims with pirreli p1's with 75% tread for $800 from the previous owner still. I'm not sure if I want these because of their bling factor and being so heavy, I pretty much want the lighest rims that I can get in either bronze, gold, black, or gunmetal but do you think I can buy those rims and sell them for $1000?
As for sway bars, I figure a used cusco bar would be good.
Uppipe and downpipe I have no idea who to go with and if it takes 8 hours to install, I don't know who the fuck is going to install it for me because obviously it won't be a job for me to do.
Endlinks no idea once again.
CAI. No idea on which brand, but if I got the CAI would I be alright if I got reflashed from Cobb, rather than dyno tuned or am I still going to be running lean?
Lastly, do you think it matters if I piece everything together or should I try to stick with Cobb parts since if I get reflashed its going to be by Cobb.
-Do I buy a set of eibach pro kit springs for $75?
-Do I buy the 18in Prodrive Oz rims w/ pirrelli p1's for $800 and try to resell for $1000 (I don't know if I can get that much for them though).
-What brand uppipe and downpipe should I go for. The cheapest used one that I can find thats in good condition?
-If I get a reflash from Cobb after I do uppipe, downpipe and CAI for Stage 2 will I still be running lean?
-Most importantly do you think it matters if I piece everything together or should I just stick with one brand part?
EGProject
YEEEEAAHHHHH
Eibachs are good stuff. Go for it.
Save for some smaller wheels and good tires. Forget about the OZ's
Perrin makes a good up-pipe, as does Helix. For downpipes, you can try a Tsudo bell-mouth, a Perrin, a Helix, or anyother brand. Try and make sure the downpipe has a bell-mouth flange (to allow a smooth merge of wastegate gases).
On the correct tune (probably stage II) you should be fine. The maps are designed for the certain parts you're thinking of adding. If you want some more piece of mind, try some STI pink injectors.
Try to steer away from headers though. A guy in my club just got a set of Invidia headers and hes pulling like 4-13 codes. He's fried an O2 sensor already, and the car is freaking out because of the weird EGT's and O2 readings. He's not running an AP, so that's likely the problem - but scary nonetheless. We drove around Saturday night with someones AP plugged in reading codes that it threw. We lost count at 22.
Save for some smaller wheels and good tires. Forget about the OZ's
Perrin makes a good up-pipe, as does Helix. For downpipes, you can try a Tsudo bell-mouth, a Perrin, a Helix, or anyother brand. Try and make sure the downpipe has a bell-mouth flange (to allow a smooth merge of wastegate gases).
On the correct tune (probably stage II) you should be fine. The maps are designed for the certain parts you're thinking of adding. If you want some more piece of mind, try some STI pink injectors.
Try to steer away from headers though. A guy in my club just got a set of Invidia headers and hes pulling like 4-13 codes. He's fried an O2 sensor already, and the car is freaking out because of the weird EGT's and O2 readings. He's not running an AP, so that's likely the problem - but scary nonetheless. We drove around Saturday night with someones AP plugged in reading codes that it threw. We lost count at 22.
Quoted post[/post]]
Eibachs are good stuff. Go for it.
Save for some smaller wheels and good tires. Forget about the OZ's
Perrin makes a good up-pipe, as does Helix. For downpipes, you can try a Tsudo bell-mouth, a Perrin, a Helix, or anyother brand. Try and make sure the downpipe has a bell-mouth flange (to allow a smooth merge of wastegate gases).
On the correct tune (probably stage II) you should be fine. The maps are designed for the certain parts you're thinking of adding. If you want some more piece of mind, try some STI pink injectors.
Try to steer away from headers though. A guy in my club just got a set of Invidia headers and hes pulling like 4-13 codes. He's fried an O2 sensor already, and the car is freaking out because of the weird EGT's and O2 readings. He's not running an AP, so that's likely the problem - but scary nonetheless. We drove around Saturday night with someones AP plugged in reading codes that it threw. We lost count at 22.
DOHC was right I actually have the predeccesor to the AP known as the AccessECU not the AccessPort, it doesnt have the port to hook the computer directly into it.
I've read good things about Perrin but holy shit $300-400 for a piece of pipe thats a couple feet long? Its absolutely ridiculous.
Maybe I'll just get the eibachs and stay on the stock rims for awhile. I've been big spending as of late and probably blew like $18,000+ in the last month so I don't even know when I'm going to put all of this stuff on.
I'm already looking to trade the Blitz exhaust for something more performance oriented and maybe quiter, but if anyone thinks its a good performance exhaust and has some positive feedback, perhaps I'll keep it.
dohcvtec_accord
WRX Sellout
Alright, it's been a few days since I logged in.
Eibachs are a decent spring. As with most any car, think about doing struts soon after, as aftermarket springs on stock struts will wear the struts prematurely.
If you don't have an uppipe, do it first. You'll see the most gain from that single mod. I'd advise getting an uppipe with a flex joint in it, to help prevent leaks. If you do this, get a good uppipe. I've heard of no-brand flex uppipes disintegrating and fuxoring with your engine.
OK, since you're still confused on the exhaust of the WRX (and rightly so), here's an awesome diagram:
See the part on the top? That's the "turboback". The part of the left of the turboback? That's the downpipe. That has a cat in it. See the part after the downpipe? That's got a cat as well. Some downpipes are just that first part, while others are the first AND second parts. My advice is to get a full turboback with a high-flow exhaust, like TurboXS, Vishnu, or APS.
Here's another diagram from Cobb to further explain things:
A downpipe by itself won't have huge gains, but it will if you're tuned for it - it will allow you to run slightly higher psi, since the exhaust gases can evacuate more quickly due to the lack of obstacles (i.e., cats).
OK. It doesn't matter whose endlinks you go with, as long as they're a solid alloy, like Whiteline's. Stay away from Perrin's endlinks. I won't go into why....just trust me.
Also, stay away from a CAI, unless you're installing a huge turbo down the road. Why? It doesn't do you any good. You have to remember, you're not in the N/A world anymore. The gains you see from a CAI will be minimal. If you really want to help your intake flow, get a K&N panel filter, a silicone MAF hose, and a silicone turbo inlet hose. Also, if you get a reflash specifically for a CAI, you might be OK, but you're still running a slight risk. Also, the advice to get STi pink injectors is bad advice (no offense). The problem is that the MAF is designed to see flow through a certain size of intake tubing. If it is installed in a bigger intake tube, more air will be flowing through it than the MAF thinks, and it won't be adding enough fuel. Bigger injectors won't help that at all.
+1 for the vote against headers. Check this out:
http://www.speedstylesound.com/headers/
Also, installing equal-length headers will pretty much get rid of that boxer rumble that so many people (like myself) have fallen in love with.
Lastly, it will not matter one small bit if you pieces together parts, as long as they're quality parts. I have different parts all over my car.
Now how's THAT for a post?
Eibachs are a decent spring. As with most any car, think about doing struts soon after, as aftermarket springs on stock struts will wear the struts prematurely.
If you don't have an uppipe, do it first. You'll see the most gain from that single mod. I'd advise getting an uppipe with a flex joint in it, to help prevent leaks. If you do this, get a good uppipe. I've heard of no-brand flex uppipes disintegrating and fuxoring with your engine.
OK, since you're still confused on the exhaust of the WRX (and rightly so), here's an awesome diagram:
See the part on the top? That's the "turboback". The part of the left of the turboback? That's the downpipe. That has a cat in it. See the part after the downpipe? That's got a cat as well. Some downpipes are just that first part, while others are the first AND second parts. My advice is to get a full turboback with a high-flow exhaust, like TurboXS, Vishnu, or APS.
Here's another diagram from Cobb to further explain things:
A downpipe by itself won't have huge gains, but it will if you're tuned for it - it will allow you to run slightly higher psi, since the exhaust gases can evacuate more quickly due to the lack of obstacles (i.e., cats).
OK. It doesn't matter whose endlinks you go with, as long as they're a solid alloy, like Whiteline's. Stay away from Perrin's endlinks. I won't go into why....just trust me.
Also, stay away from a CAI, unless you're installing a huge turbo down the road. Why? It doesn't do you any good. You have to remember, you're not in the N/A world anymore. The gains you see from a CAI will be minimal. If you really want to help your intake flow, get a K&N panel filter, a silicone MAF hose, and a silicone turbo inlet hose. Also, if you get a reflash specifically for a CAI, you might be OK, but you're still running a slight risk. Also, the advice to get STi pink injectors is bad advice (no offense). The problem is that the MAF is designed to see flow through a certain size of intake tubing. If it is installed in a bigger intake tube, more air will be flowing through it than the MAF thinks, and it won't be adding enough fuel. Bigger injectors won't help that at all.
+1 for the vote against headers. Check this out:
http://www.speedstylesound.com/headers/
Also, installing equal-length headers will pretty much get rid of that boxer rumble that so many people (like myself) have fallen in love with.
Lastly, it will not matter one small bit if you pieces together parts, as long as they're quality parts. I have different parts all over my car.
Now how's THAT for a post?
EGProject
YEEEEAAHHHHH
Great advice with the exhaust and others - but you're kinda wrong about the injectors. If you use the STI VF34 map in the AP (given he upgrades the turbo, and requires more fuel - needing the injectors) the AP will compensate for the extra fuel, and tweak the duty cycle and flow of the STI pinks. Granted, if you're sticking with the stock turbo, you're completely right - but the stock WRX injectors run out of steam with the stock turbo too - just ask my friend Kev who put down 255whp with the stock turbo and injectors. He was running dangerously lean with the stock injectors - and switched to STI's. You have to tune for them though as I said above.
+1 on DOHC's post, he knows his shit.
dohcvtec_accord
WRX Sellout
Hey thanks.
So, you're definitely right about needing to upgrade injectors (and fuel pump, BTW) if you're getting away from the stock turbo. Granted, I've heard about people not pushing their VF34 (or other small turbo) very hard, and keeping the stockers, but as you said, you WILL run those injectors to their max duty up near the top end. The WRX stock turbo is horribly undersized, and the injectors match it.
I thought you had said he just needed to upgrade his injectors to get rid of the problem of running lean with a CAI.
Carry on.
So, you're definitely right about needing to upgrade injectors (and fuel pump, BTW) if you're getting away from the stock turbo. Granted, I've heard about people not pushing their VF34 (or other small turbo) very hard, and keeping the stockers, but as you said, you WILL run those injectors to their max duty up near the top end. The WRX stock turbo is horribly undersized, and the injectors match it.
I thought you had said he just needed to upgrade his injectors to get rid of the problem of running lean with a CAI.
Carry on.
Thanks for the help, I'm trying to figure out what I want to do with the car now.
Work hasn't been as fruitful as it once was and I'll be away at school and I don't know what my income will look like next year so I don't know how much I should sink into the car. I really want to do the eibach springs, end links, front/rear sway, uppipe, downpipe, rims, and accessport.
Work hasn't been as fruitful as it once was and I'll be away at school and I don't know what my income will look like next year so I don't know how much I should sink into the car. I really want to do the eibach springs, end links, front/rear sway, uppipe, downpipe, rims, and accessport.