How to tune B16a engine??
- Thread starter pinebox
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How do you figure that the body kit is "JDM"?
Okay... okay...
Had to do some minor shit on the car, like change out the tie rod ends on both side. Got rid of alot of unnecessary roughness... Changed the oil yet again within the first 30 days of me having this thing and the oil was black again. Used same filter, switched to 10-40w just to see how it runs. Got rid of the noisy lifter on cylinder 3 with last oil change. Oil after 1 week on 2nd change is nearing black again only after having drove it maybe 200 miles. Going to change to 5-30w in a couple more days...
Now that the engine is running smooth and I'm not getting heavy exhaust smells in the cabin, or smoke out the tail pipe... I'm looking to put performance parts on.
As I mentioned the cam gears are rusted and they'll be first to come out. I'm having a hard time figuring out which set of cam gears to buy. I can get a set of Vision Cam Gears for 60$ locally, or a set of Skunk 2 Cam Gears for 150$ locally. Recommendation there? Vision cam gears are used, but show no signs of wear/tear. Skunk2's are new in box.
Also, a gentleman is selling a jdm b16 port and polished heads (Top side of b16 engine) with a skunk 2 manifold for 350$, is that a good buy?
I have a pro mechanic thats working with me on this because I dont know how to put shit on, but at the end of the day we'll take the car to get it fine tuned, but for now I'd like the input here on where to go / maybe how to go about getting it tuned for a turbo in the outcome. With the parts mentioned above being what I think needs to come out/ be changed first. So... help a nygga out.
Thanks in advance
Had to do some minor shit on the car, like change out the tie rod ends on both side. Got rid of alot of unnecessary roughness... Changed the oil yet again within the first 30 days of me having this thing and the oil was black again. Used same filter, switched to 10-40w just to see how it runs. Got rid of the noisy lifter on cylinder 3 with last oil change. Oil after 1 week on 2nd change is nearing black again only after having drove it maybe 200 miles. Going to change to 5-30w in a couple more days...
Now that the engine is running smooth and I'm not getting heavy exhaust smells in the cabin, or smoke out the tail pipe... I'm looking to put performance parts on.
As I mentioned the cam gears are rusted and they'll be first to come out. I'm having a hard time figuring out which set of cam gears to buy. I can get a set of Vision Cam Gears for 60$ locally, or a set of Skunk 2 Cam Gears for 150$ locally. Recommendation there? Vision cam gears are used, but show no signs of wear/tear. Skunk2's are new in box.
Also, a gentleman is selling a jdm b16 port and polished heads (Top side of b16 engine) with a skunk 2 manifold for 350$, is that a good buy?
I have a pro mechanic thats working with me on this because I dont know how to put shit on, but at the end of the day we'll take the car to get it fine tuned, but for now I'd like the input here on where to go / maybe how to go about getting it tuned for a turbo in the outcome. With the parts mentioned above being what I think needs to come out/ be changed first. So... help a nygga out.
Thanks in advance
Had to do some minor shit on the car, like change out the tie rod ends on both side. Got rid of alot of unnecessary roughness... Changed the oil yet again within the first 30 days of me having this thing and the oil was black again. Used same filter, switched to 10-40w just to see how it runs. Got rid of the noisy lifter on cylinder 3 with last oil change. Oil after 1 week on 2nd change is nearing black again only after having drove it maybe 200 miles. Going to change to 5-30w in a couple more days...
Now that the engine is running smooth and I'm not getting heavy exhaust smells in the cabin, or smoke out the tail pipe... I'm looking to put performance parts on.
As I mentioned the cam gears are rusted and they'll be first to come out. I'm having a hard time figuring out which set of cam gears to buy. I can get a set of Vision Cam Gears for 60$ locally, or a set of Skunk 2 Cam Gears for 150$ locally. Recommendation there? Vision cam gears are used, but show no signs of wear/tear. Skunk2's are new in box.
Also, a gentleman is selling a jdm b16 port and polished heads (Top side of b16 engine) with a skunk 2 manifold for 350$, is that a good buy?
I have a pro mechanic thats working with me on this because I dont know how to put shit on, but at the end of the day we'll take the car to get it fine tuned, but for now I'd like the input here on where to go / maybe how to go about getting it tuned for a turbo in the outcome. With the parts mentioned above being what I think needs to come out/ be changed first. So... help a nygga out.
Thanks in advance
Bought the vision set of cam gears. The guy I bought the cam gears from left the camshafts on the cam gears as well and stated they are bigger than the stock b16a cam shafts. I'll have these installed next week, with the timing belt and water pump. Won't be using the bigger camshafts.
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GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Find some numbers on the cams to find out what they really are. He could have lied to you.
It's good to see that thing is getting some much needed love.
It's good to see that thing is getting some much needed love.
eg'sforlife
Active Member
so you changed or didnt change the oil filter the first time
Yes I changed the filter the first time, but not the 2nd. Oil is decent after another 100 miles as of yesterday, but still gonna switch it up to 5-30w next week.
And ya to GlassHeadlights... After having drove this thing solid for a week, I can tell theres alot more to be done, but its comin to fa sho.
Why do you type so intelligently then use the phrase "fa sho?" We're all adults around here, no need to be using idiot phrases like that.
You've got a lot of work ahead of you on your car. Good luck with it though. Your oil is going to turn black, I'm sure that motor had the piss beaten out of it. You'd probably have to do a complete engine rebuild if you didn't want the oil to be black.... and even then I'm not sure if it would stay clean.
You've got a lot of work ahead of you on your car. Good luck with it though. Your oil is going to turn black, I'm sure that motor had the piss beaten out of it. You'd probably have to do a complete engine rebuild if you didn't want the oil to be black.... and even then I'm not sure if it would stay clean.
eg'sforlife
Active Member
x2 the oil is going to turn black no doubt about it the only way to fix this is to tear the block apart and have it hot tanked everthing cleaned to new and then your oil would stay cleaner longer but its still going to turn black..... best way to help without tearing the motor apart is to run down the highway for long time and burn away the carbon and sludge deposites even then you want get everything
ZCpowerdSI
Member
Its an alright rex, but im not feeling the squarish front bumper. Also you should get a better intake pipe. the one you have looks pretty ghetto. lol.
NOTE. im not hating, im giving my opinion to make it look better, and perform a bit better.
Also, anymore pics of the interior. or the whole car?
NOTE. im not hating, im giving my opinion to make it look better, and perform a bit better.
Also, anymore pics of the interior. or the whole car?
hey bro every one has to start some where....hell 6 years ago id spend that money on that....i was all in to the body kit thing and the big wings....lol if you really want to get in to the honda thing....spend a lil time here on honswap the poeple here know there shit...well most of them....and if you want to see a real JDM crx with a b-16 look up a SIR....here bad as that is what im trying to make my crx look....JDM BABY
OKay well...
Got the entire head sealed up, was leaking quite a bit on a slow note... but in all places possible LOL. (Distributor seal/valve cover/ and a couple others my mechanic did up for me)
NOW... the thing is mainly leaking between the head and block... head gasket. Drips down slowly from the bottom left side, right above the b16a stamp on the block. The oil bubbles up a little when running down over the split between the engine and the tranny. My question is, that normal of the bubbling of the oil when running between/over the split between the tranny and engine block to the left of the b16a stamp? Or do you think that the tranny needs to be tightened up to the block a bit more? Other than that, I'm progressing. Was a lot of loose bolts on this thing lol...
Anyway, a recommendation there would be nice. Thanks. Links to the pix below.
Yfrog - b16ao - Uploaded by pinebox - Where the leak is coming from
Yfrog - b16a2 - Uploaded by pinebox - Where the bubbling occurs (on the split on left side of stamp, up and down)
Got the entire head sealed up, was leaking quite a bit on a slow note... but in all places possible LOL. (Distributor seal/valve cover/ and a couple others my mechanic did up for me)
NOW... the thing is mainly leaking between the head and block... head gasket. Drips down slowly from the bottom left side, right above the b16a stamp on the block. The oil bubbles up a little when running down over the split between the engine and the tranny. My question is, that normal of the bubbling of the oil when running between/over the split between the tranny and engine block to the left of the b16a stamp? Or do you think that the tranny needs to be tightened up to the block a bit more? Other than that, I'm progressing. Was a lot of loose bolts on this thing lol...
Anyway, a recommendation there would be nice. Thanks. Links to the pix below.
Yfrog - b16ao - Uploaded by pinebox - Where the leak is coming from
Yfrog - b16a2 - Uploaded by pinebox - Where the bubbling occurs (on the split on left side of stamp, up and down)
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
I re-used a headgasket on my Civic 3 times and it leaked oil out of the headgasket right above the D16 stamp. Exactly like yours. Its not coming out between the motor and trans, theres no oil in there.
Newer/better b16a being installed...
Got me a semi-built 2nd generation b16a being installed as I type this. (AEM adjustable cam gears, ebay lighter underdrive pulley and apparently some Type R internals besides the Type R intake mani) Finally got me a expert Honda mechanic that works on the side as well. I'll post pix when swap is complete. No more head gasket leaks, or oil smell under the radiator cap for me! Finally I'll be able to move on to turbo and carbon fiber parts! See ya in a bit.^_^
Got me a semi-built 2nd generation b16a being installed as I type this. (AEM adjustable cam gears, ebay lighter underdrive pulley and apparently some Type R internals besides the Type R intake mani) Finally got me a expert Honda mechanic that works on the side as well. I'll post pix when swap is complete. No more head gasket leaks, or oil smell under the radiator cap for me! Finally I'll be able to move on to turbo and carbon fiber parts! See ya in a bit.^_^
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Facepalm.
Engine overhaul
Got tired of the half ass repairs and sly BS. So I got to business. Complete overhaul, check it yos.
- Stage 2 OBX camshafts
- Brian crower titanium springs and retainers, ferrea valves and keepers.
- Blox 68mm TB
- Golden Eagle Fuel Rail
- Professional Products Intake Manifold, Hondata IM Gasket (Selling Type R IM ported and polished)
- New OEM piston rings, Full ARP Bolt set
- ACL racing bearings
- Type R oil Pump
- Unorthodox underdrive pulley /w 12lb flywheel to accompany the weight ( no engine vibe )
- JDM S1 Tranny
- Stage 1 Exedy clutch/pressure plate, throw out bearing
- AEM V2 /w 4'' Blox Velocity Stack
- Full MSD Ignition ( MSD 6, SS Coil, Extreme Cap, 8.5mm wires ) *NGK Plugs*
- Front racing traction bar
- Dual core racing radiator /w silicone hoses
*Head and block were both decked, and block was honed to OEM to accompany the rings*
*Many other cool thangs on the inside now, like hub release / cap lock, type R subs, but finishing up this engine bay thang first fa sho*
*Ghetto black engine bay paint done by me, knocked off those rust brackets and painted those up round the bay*
Notice I started takin pix on 4-20? That was a good day, I called into work, went and bought a Bob Marley bong and had some fun.
Feel free to comment / advise / or hate...
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3804337/1989-honda-crx/page-2
Got tired of the half ass repairs and sly BS. So I got to business. Complete overhaul, check it yos.
- Stage 2 OBX camshafts
- Brian crower titanium springs and retainers, ferrea valves and keepers.
- Blox 68mm TB
- Golden Eagle Fuel Rail
- Professional Products Intake Manifold, Hondata IM Gasket (Selling Type R IM ported and polished)
- New OEM piston rings, Full ARP Bolt set
- ACL racing bearings
- Type R oil Pump
- Unorthodox underdrive pulley /w 12lb flywheel to accompany the weight ( no engine vibe )
- JDM S1 Tranny
- Stage 1 Exedy clutch/pressure plate, throw out bearing
- AEM V2 /w 4'' Blox Velocity Stack
- Full MSD Ignition ( MSD 6, SS Coil, Extreme Cap, 8.5mm wires ) *NGK Plugs*
- Front racing traction bar
- Dual core racing radiator /w silicone hoses
*Head and block were both decked, and block was honed to OEM to accompany the rings*
*Many other cool thangs on the inside now, like hub release / cap lock, type R subs, but finishing up this engine bay thang first fa sho*
*Ghetto black engine bay paint done by me, knocked off those rust brackets and painted those up round the bay*
Notice I started takin pix on 4-20? That was a good day, I called into work, went and bought a Bob Marley bong and had some fun.
Feel free to comment / advise / or hate...
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3804337/1989-honda-crx/page-2
WinningJDM
New Member
All kinds of money thrown around here. lol
$2.5k for the car and what looks like over $3k in parts, 5k-8k would get you in a nice RWD car. S2K even. Well it's
your money good luck with that build.
$2.5k for the car and what looks like over $3k in parts, 5k-8k would get you in a nice RWD car. S2K even. Well it's
your money good luck with that build.
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