i THINK my ostrich fried my ECU

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well i never connect the wideband to the ecu...only to the laptop. if the person wants wideband AFRs i hook up the gauge too.

Most ECUs freak out at wideband signal

Its only hooked up to log works, and occassionally an AFR gauge.


do you have any experience with logworks? i know the laptop sees the LC1. if it didnt it wouldnt let me open the lm programmer. but i cant get the AFR to show up in logworks. the heading "real time logging" is greyed out it says the guage wont "come alive" till its connected to the LC1 a datastream is detected and the input is configured, well in the manual it says i cant configure the afr guage. i can only change from lambda to afr. but i got it hooked up with a serial to USB adapter. the terminator plug plugged in to serial in and all the 7 wires hooked up properly. so what gives? what am i missing?
 
isnt there something in there that says like configure device...something along those lines...ill see if i can get someone with log works installed to give me a call.
 
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isnt there something in there that says like configure device...something along those lines...ill see if i can get someone with log works installed to give me a call.


thanx man. well you can configue your inputs, inputs being a map sensor or whatever else you choose to log in logworks, im not doing that, i plan on using crome to log all sensors. i was just wanting to log AFR in log works to make sure the wideband is reading and to see what my afr is at idle with my p30 basemap installed. so if i wanted to configure my input for my map i could do that, but it doesnt consider the A/F guage as one of the input, it goes, A/F guage and then input 1 , input 2, and so on. according to the manual if its all hooked up it should just log. from reading both the lc1 manual and the logworks manual, im a bit stumped. mind you, im not 100 percent sure that the o2 is calibrated, i hooked up an LED lightbulb not a single LED. so the lightbulb never flashed, geuss there isnt enogh voltage. but the sensor did heat up on its own and it said to wait two mins then it would go through free air calibration, etc etc. i waited a while, figured it was done, and here i am now!
 
the serial to usb convertor might be your problem. i was told by two people that they have only use a straight serial connector.
 
also i should note that i do not have either of the analog outputs hooked up to anything, just the serial connection into my laptop.
 
......the analog out put is what your supposed to hook the serial connector into....

then you can program the sensor in the LM programmer.
 
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the serial to usb convertor might be your problem. i was told by two people that they have only use a straight serial connector.


i got no choice most new laptops these days dont even come with 9 pin seriel connectors


and yes i have it hooked up right, serial out to lappy, and seriel in gets the terminator plug (the stereo plug with no wire attached to it)

i just d/l the new dld file for the lc1 and now logworks says it cant connect, it lists 3 seriel ports and non of them work. grrrr. so far im not happy with innovate lol, but im being patient!
 
yeah i know what you mean, i read that a few times not to have them open, so the manual was good in that sense. but i DID figure it out..

i had everything hooked up right, but i didnt download both firmware's i downloaded the new LC1 "dld" file but i didnt know there was a brand new version of logworks. i downloaded that the first time and it didnt work still. but then i went back and installed it all over again and well for some reason it worked.

i got everything loggging, whether or not its perfectly correct im not sure, i need to get the datalogging in crome up next, and then i geuss ill compare.

but thanx alot for your input bergy and reikoshea, you helped me alot! :)
 
wow. that all seems too complicated for me. I have logworks on my pc, but have never used it except when I first tested the lm-1. You need to get that datalogging port hooked up, that will solve 99% of your problems right there... It's like 4 wires...just spend the 10 minutes it takes to get that thing in there, and never look back to logworks again. Working in two different programs sucks for tuning, and CromePro is awesome from what I hear. Do it, man.

Edit. Glad to hear you got some of that working. I think obd1 is my next tuning step, but I think I'll just upgrade the whole car when I do it, lol.
 
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wow. that all seems too complicated for me. I have logworks on my pc, but have never used it except when I first tested the lm-1. You need to get that datalogging port hooked up, that will solve 99% of your problems right there... It's like 4 wires...just spend the 10 minutes it takes to get that thing in there, and never look back to logworks again. Working in two different programs sucks for tuning, and CromePro is awesome from what I hear. Do it, man.

Edit. Glad to hear you got some of that working. I think obd1 is my next tuning step, but I think I'll just upgrade the whole car when I do it, lol.


werd, thanx man. yeah it was a bitch but atleast im getting a signal. all i have left to do is solder in my 4 pin header, ive never soldered a board before, so i bought all the tools and solder to practice on an old board. but like i said, i cant find desoldering braid ANYWHERE around here, i geuss ill have to order it online and wait, grrrrr. waiting for this is gonna suck seeing as how my car is ready to hit the streets. so close yet so far. if i knew how to post pics, id post em, i built it as stealth as possible, everything black, black IC piping, black intercooler, black couplers! hehe, cant wait to bag my first mustang this summer!! :mrgreen:
 
Lol. yeah, my build passed california smog...But I have a red AEM CAI. I am thinking about painting it flat black.
 
Dude, get the Radioshack ~$10 desoldering tool. It's way easier, cleaner, and faster than using the braid(trust me, I know from experience). If you still want to use the braid, Radioshack also carries that.
 
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Dude, get the Radioshack ~$10 desoldering tool. It's way easier, cleaner, and faster than using the braid(trust me, I know from experience). If you still want to use the braid, Radioshack also carries that.


been to 4 radio shacks, nobody has braid, went to "the source by circuit city" they dont carry it, went to an electronics repair store, they dont have it, the list does go on but you get the point.

i DID find someone from a computer store to lend me some to try out, he didnt have any for sale though, it still didnt work the way it expected. ive used the desolder vacuum tool they sell at radioshack, the big spring loaded vacuum, that wouldnt suck up anything either. the braid is tough to get it to suck it up too. i know the solder is melting, as soon as i touch it, it goes to a puddle. ive soldered alot before, just never circuit boards, any tips you can give me if youve done it before, ive tried a bunch of times and once in a while ill get it to get most of it out, but its an old board and i probably fried it by now, (not that it even mattered).

but if youve done it and can tell me any tips other than the wiki on PGMFI that would be helpful, for god sakes all i need is to solder in my 4 pin header for my datalogging and i can drive this thing! im gettin frustrated!

thanx
 
I had trouble with the soldering braid, which is why I stopped using it(I also burnt myself using it). All of the radioshacks I've been to has it; it's usually on the bottom though.

As for the radioshack desoldering tool with the vacuum bulb; it worked like a charm for me. It wasn't spring loaded; it looks just like a soldering iron. Here's what I got: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=search Just squeeze the bulb, touch the solder with the tip until the solder melts, and just release the bulb. Just make sure the tip is completely in the solder though. If not, it'll suck up mainly air.
 
hmm thats pretty cool, i never saw that, dont forget that i am in Toronto Canada, things can be different here. what you have in stock may not be what the one here stocks, anyways, no biggie, cause i have the bulb, looks almost like that just with a shorter...ummm sucky tube. or whatever it is lol, but ill try and get it in the solder more when i release the bulb, i know i havent been doin that too much, ill go try it now, my soldering iron is warming up. also im using a 25W "pencil" style iron, do you think thats enough??
 
That's lower than anything I have(35W and 45W), when I was using the braid and the 35W iron, it took a little while for the solder to melt. The 45W is pretty quick; just press it against the solder, and like in 1 second the solder melts.
 
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