Lost Power No familar Loud Vtec Sound

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Try cleaning the solenoid. Take it off (be ready to clean up some oil), and spray the hell out of the metal screens with carb cleaner. They sometimes get clogged.

Then test the power and check the ground to make sure they're doing what they're supposed to.
 
alright.. im coming to the assumption that somethings wrong! when i did my swap i added the vtec conroller and what not... when you swap the h22 in the accord It says that you are suppose lengthen a temp senor and run it back to the back off the motor. well i didnt do that... i just put the harness closest to it on. Its hard to explain what ive done. origianally the f22 had two temp gauges i guess you would call them.. one on the front of the motor where the top radiator hose goes and one on the bottom radiator hose on the thermostat housing.. i figured it was what told the fan when to turn on and off. So when I turn the key on my fan comes on immediatly. What i was really suppost to do what put the wires that originally go on the front to the rear and just take off the other sensor, sense the prelude h22's only have the one sensor~! Well i go to my car today put the key in the ignition so i can test for continutity just one more time on the vtec oil pressure solenoid.. the fans running on like normal.. as soon as i take of the harness that plugs into the vtec oil pressure solenoid the fan turns off! Yeah that seems like a problem to be.. but wait.... My f22 originally came with vtec.. i didnt have to add anything just mostly plug and play... and than i think well why did it work before... im so confused now! Why did it work before? than all of a sudden stop? i tell you this is going to be a headace!
 
ok so i went out... and jumped the vtec oil pressure and the rear thermostat plus with a wire.. i went and turned on my car and no check engine light came out. so i was thinking good i may have got it! i let the car warm up and temp up there.. and decided to gradually take er up into vtec in second.. nothing... maybe just a very slight sound difrence! but not the normal rooooar and kick! so i get out and put it back to normal... plug the two back in, in the appropreite parts! and the c.e.l light comes back on... guess what it was.. yeah 22 vtec oil pressure! I just cant figure this booger out!
 
Maybe you aren't getting enough oil pressure to open up the oil pressure switch.

??
 
My guess is you have some wiring harness plugs attached wrong. Get a Helms and check the color of the wires vs. the sensors they're plugged into.
 
Originally posted by dohcvtec_accord@Dec 25 2003, 01:59 AM
My guess is you have some wiring harness plugs attached wrong. Get a Helms and check the color of the wires vs. the sensors they're plugged into.

alright but either way you think of it... my car came factory with vtec! The vtec solenoid and pressure switch should be in the same location. im going to have to get a t so i can throw in my oil pressure gauge! i had on just never got a chance to hook it up when i did my swap. hmm i dont know what its problem is. the harness should be ok... aside from the the water temp gauges
 
now get this.. when i looped the harness and tricked it.. shouldnt have engaged vtec? The check engine light did go away when i did this, i dont see why it wouldnt have made it engage. Isnt that basically what the switch does? it creates a closed circuit which lets the ecu know the oil pressure is adaquit
 
don't know exactly what signal the oil pressure switch sends, but I can tell you more about the temp sensors. You have a sender, it's below your distributor. It sends the signal to your dash. You have a sensor, which sends the signal to your ECU. You have two switches, which in the USDM cars, sends a signal to your fans individually. In JDM, you have one switch. If you hook your old fan switch wire to the solenoid, you fan will be on full time. I did the same thing in the beginning. Nice fit huh? Pull that fucker off. Use the F22 waterneck in the front and put the switch back. Then, figure out where the VTEC goes, or vice versa.

Also, my VTEC does not engage until the car is up to temp. Make sure you are getting the right temp signal to the ECU. Just a thought.

I am willing to bet that you were close enough before to make VTEC work, so something changed. I'd double check grounds, connections at the ECU, your VAFC, and where ever else you made connections.
 
Originally posted by tab@Dec 25 2003, 06:15 AM
don't know exactly what signal the oil pressure switch sends, but I can tell you more about the temp sensors. You have a sender, it's below your distributor. It sends the signal to your dash. You have a sensor, which sends the signal to your ECU. You have two switches, which in the USDM cars, sends a signal to your fans individually. In JDM, you have one switch. If you hook your old fan switch wire to the solenoid, you fan will be on full time. I did the same thing in the beginning. Nice fit huh? Pull that fucker off. Use the F22 waterneck in the front and put the switch back. Then, figure out where the VTEC goes, or vice versa.

Also, my VTEC does not engage until the car is up to temp. Make sure you are getting the right temp signal to the ECU. Just a thought.

I am willing to bet that you were close enough before to make VTEC work, so something changed. I'd double check grounds, connections at the ECU, your VAFC, and where ever else you made connections.

alright what im going to do is switch the water switch on the neck back to the thermostat housing.. but anyways im still concerned on the vtec system! The f22 came stock with it so there is no way i could of switched them. the solenoid harness comes out at the same place as where the pressure switch should be!
 
but the F22 harness is shorter, and your distances may not be right. That's how I ended up putting my fan switch wires on the solenoid to begin with. I ended up lengthening the fan wires a little.

As for the VTEC, are the wires still light blue and black on the solenoid? A 94 Accord helms would help out a lot.

You said yourself that you were getting a code 22 for the pressure switch. I would definitely look that area over again. Try resetting your ECU to see if the code clears, and stays cleared.

Funny thing about VTEC, if you're not up to temp, it may not work. A lot of times the codes aren't sent from the ECU until the car is warm. So once your car is warm, the code kicks, and you get no VTEC.

I did borrow a copy of the 93 Prelude Shop Book from Honda lately(just like helms), and I photocopied the troubleshooting guide for VTEC. I'll post it if you need to look at it. We're all just speculating and trying to help. You are the only person that gets to play with the car.
 
oh right dude these a perfect ideas! Shit im going to give everything a try! Ive got to wait untill stores open up on friday do i can get a T fitting for my oil line! Than i was going to put the front plug in the back and see what that does! Than we can shoot from there!
 
I figured if all else fails Ill run a temporary line to the solenoid and the vtec pressure switch!
 
I added a few more pics for ya. Check em out. Component locations, VTEC solenoid troubleshooting, and VTEC Pressure Switch troubleshooting. Straight from the HONDA shop manual.

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bad ass dude! thanks so much. On the switch there should be two wires right? one off the ecu and than another is grounded somewhere right
 
I could swear the fourth picture has a typo. I think the switch is below the oil filter on the block and is grounded to the block. The solenoid valve is what is pictured. Mine has a wire to run to the ECU, and yes, one that you run to ground. I grounded mine to a nearby screw on the engine, maybe six inches away.

Good luck.
 
this happened to a friend of mine, when he slamed it into 3rd on the freeway his car went into vtec for about 5 secs and then fell out of vtec and lost tramendous power felt really slow, his fuel cutoff also went down to 6500RPM and later on that week his fuel cutoff went down to 3500RPM


Yeah um same crap happened to me about 2 months ago and it took me forever to figure out wtf was wrong. My wiring harness was lenghened badly and fried my fuel injectors and the main relay in the ecu. I also have a big exhaust leak at the end of the header and on a rainy day it wouldnt rev past 3500 rpm probaly because it was throwing off the 02 sensor?
 
Originally posted by tab@Dec 25 2003, 09:32 PM
I could swear the fourth picture has a typo. I think the switch is below the oil filter on the block and is grounded to the block. The solenoid valve is what is pictured. Mine has a wire to run to the ECU, and yes, one that you run to ground. I grounded mine to a nearby screw on the engine, maybe six inches away.

Good luck.

actually no it is right.. the oil pressure sensor is below the oil filter. That will show you the little oil light on your cluster when i believe theres either 10 or 5 or less pressure! The vtec pressure switch is next to the solenoid!
 
hey man you dont have the other page do you? it looks like we are missing the next page for trouble shootin code 22
 
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