Main Bearins

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T

Tre

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so i bought myself some plastigauge today to check out my clearances and it looks like im going to need all new main bearings. So which ones should i get? one colour higher than the one being used on my block? or what? need some advice here

For example my #1 main bearing gave me a reading that was thinner than the .38 mm and bigger than the .51mm scale. (brown bearing) which bearing size should i use for that main?
 
What bottom end are you talking about? We need some specifics before we can start to help. It's kinda like telling us "The thing, it doesn't look like it did, what is wrong?"
 
yeah sorry its a b18a block

there are letters engraved into the block and someone said go with that code for the bearing colours..

becuase the bearings are softer and thus that is why thre is more clearance...
 
The color code has nothing to do with how hard the bearing is, they tell you the inner and outer size. If I had known it was a B18A I could have looked up the color code in my Helms last night ;) As is, if you can wait until this evening I can give you the table of bearing sizes so you can see which bearings might work better. If you can't wait until tonight, call your local Acura dealer and ask them, they should be able to tell you.
 
im in no rush

i looked under my block to find 5 letters and used those to decipher which bearings to use.

and then looked at the bearing colour to figure out the number to come up with something like (B3, C2 etc)

let me know if what i was doing is right

Someone on c-speed said that the bearings are softer than the crank and thus the bearings will squish a bit causing the greater clearance from my plastiguage readings. So he said just get the same ones that were on the block and you should be find provded that you do your plastiguage readings.....

Question: if i get the wrong bearings, would i be able to return them after checking the clearances?
 
If you have not cut the crank down at all then you should just use the bearings that are stamped on the block/crank. How far off are your cleanances? The bearings shouldn't squish as you are measurin the space between the bearing and crank.

To read the codes, you take the letters stamped on the block and combine them with the numbers on the crank next to every main journal. (The letters on the crank are for rod bearings)
 
Originally posted by lsvtec@Jun 3 2003, 12:39 PM
If you have not cut the crank down at all then you should just use the bearings that are stamped on the block/crank. How far off are your cleanances? The bearings shouldn't squish as you are measurin the space between the bearing and crank.

To read the codes, you take the letters stamped on the block and combine them with the numbers on the crank next to every main journal. (The letters on the crank are for rod bearings)
Click to expand...

Ok the bearings on the main journals are at least .1 mm off.
im still a bit confused as how i can code the bearings.
 
Go here. It is a Civic manual, but the Civic crank is stamped the same way an Integra crank is. The chart for picking the proper bearings uses the same codes and colors as the Integra. Post if you still have problems.
 
so is this the sequence?


#1 Check the block for the 5 letters
#2 match up the number on the cranK?
#3 check the colour?

i have the helms manual and its s bit confusing as i do not know where to start

can you give me an example of a code that i should be getting?
 
The color codes are different for every engine, so I don't think I can help you there. If you post the letters on your block (from left to right) then post the numbers on your crank (posted in order starting at the pulley side) I will tell you what color bearings you should be using.
 
ok its CCBCB

and from the pulley end to the crank end
is


Crank

B2/B2/ B2 / B2
2 / -- / -- /

Embossed '4' / Embossed '2'/-------/Engraved 'Q'




What kind of bearings will i need for the connecting rods as well?
3 of them have '2' engraved (have brown bearings) and the other has '3' engraved and a green bearing.

I also did not label the piston numbers... if it matters or not (thus i do not know for sure where each rod belongs
 
Where the rods go matters a bunch. The numbers on the sides of the rods +the Letters on the crank will determine the size bearing you should run. In this case you should be okay because all your rod journals are B's.

From the pulley side here is the color codes for you mains:
Green Green Yellow Green Yellow

For your rods the bearing colors are:
The three rods that have '3' on them get Green bearings

The single rod with the '2' on it gets Yellow bearings.
 
thanks a lot for the help!

the bearings that were already on there were brown and green only i did not have any yellow.

should i just stick with what you told me?

i had three that had the '2' stamped on the rods (so 3 yellow?)
and '3' stamped on one of the rods (1 green?)
 
anyways what do those embossed/engraved marks mean?
 
do you still have the old bearings and remember which journal they came from? if you do then just order the same color for each rod journal and crank journal. *reminder tip* despite the different codes (because you might have duplicate colors for different codes) for example... yellow b2 will be the same as c1 yellow. i dunno if that makes sense... unless you spun a bearing just stick with the original bearing colors.
 
so what you are saying is that all yellow honda bearings are the same, and all green , brown etc?

yes i still have the main bearings

#1 Brown
#2 Green
#3 Brown
#4 Green
#5 Green
 
Originally posted by Tre@Jun 4 2003, 03:54 PM
thanks a lot for the help!

the bearings that were already on there were brown and green only i did not have any yellow.

should i just stick with what you told me?

i had three that had the '2' stamped on the rods (so 3 yellow?)
and '3' stamped on one of the rods (1 green?)
Click to expand...

Sorry I got them backwards, the three rods with '2' on them get Yellow bearings, the one rod with '3' on it gets a Green bearing. Because all four of your rod journals on the crank are the same size (all B's) it doesn't matter where you put each rod on the crank.

Brown doesn't make any sense with the codes you read me. This is a B18A1 right? If so the only ways to get a brown rod bearing is to have a code of 4B, 3C, or 2D. All of your rod journals are B's and none of your rods are 4's so it doesn't make sense unless you have had the crank cut down. Has this crank ever seen a machinist or been cut 10 under?
 
yeah its kinda weird.. im not too sure ill have to ask the guy who sold me the motor.... if thats the case should i just get the bearings that were in the block? or is the crank no good?
 
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