Master cylinder / Brake Booster Upgrade for EG Civic

[phyregod]

I got the brake swap complete and settled in nicely, and braking is great... But I can get even better performance by swapping to a teggy booster and master cylinder. Question is, which one?

I would like a direct bolt-on replacement. Hopefully without re-bending the factory lines. I hate doing that.

Which prop valve, booster, and master cylinder do I use?

1992 Civic CX Hatch. SiR-G (GSR) front and rear brakes.

 

[posol]

stock booster
91 civic ex sedan master


it bolts in, its 15/16th, no bending of lines.

its 45 bucks for the part at autozone... plus core. do this. its the best, quickest way.

 

[phyregod]

Quoted post[/post]]
stock booster
91 civic ex sedan master


it bolts in, its 15/16th, no bending of lines.

its 45 bucks for the part at autozone... plus core. do this. its the best, quickest way.

You think that'll be enough to handle the swap at all four corners? They are larger than EX stuff all the way around. What about a propo valve, going from rear drums to disks. I'm pretty sure that is needed. The fronts are locking up before the rears in straight line, hard braking.

 

[E_SolSi]

you want the fronts to lock before the rears

 

[posol]

if the rears lock up, you're going for a ride.


trust me. do this mod. its 45 bucks. you'll love life

that was all i was intending to run on my fastbrakes 11" 4-piston front and 11" single rears. so don't say its not big enough .
stock ppv too. don't bother with the 4040 unless you absolutely need it. IMO, its not needed, especially when you have GOOD brakes.

your fluid and lines will do a lot too, so pick good stuff.

also, i had a GSR fluid resivoir. it holds more than a civic one. i think even the abs ones are bigger from the ex civics w/ abs. but the cup is still the same.

just gives you a little more fluid to play with for those hard mashes.

 

[92dxhatch]

^^^


get the 91 civic ex sedan master, you'll never look back, plus its not a noticible difference from the gsr one. you'll be plenty happy with it, plus its mearly inexpensive, thats always a plus

 

[93vicb16a2]

thanx i was going to post the same question but i just found out

 

[confusatron]

Will that EX master help at all with stock DX brakes?

Mr. 1994EX never sent me my rear disc conversion swap back in October so I'm screwed out of the $200 that I sent him. I filed a complaint with Paypal, and they said they ruled in my favor but were unable to recover the money from his account (of course, right?).

So now I got no rear discs, and no $200 to buy another swap off ebay or hmotorsonline. So anyway, when I got pulled by that Turbo'd Golf a few weeks back, when I went to stop in a hurry from 90 mph or whatever it was, my brakes started to give out a couple seconds into the stop, and I almost didn't stop in time for the next red light. Needless to say I was a little scared. So will this master cyl help my crappy DX brakes, or do I have to just go for the swap later when I have the dough again?

 

[phyregod]

Quoted post[/post]]
Will that EX master help at all with stock DX brakes?

Mr. 1994EX never sent me my rear disc conversion swap back in October so I'm screwed out of the $200 that I sent him. I filed a complaint with Paypal, and they said they ruled in my favor but were unable to recover the money from his account (of course, right?).

So now I got no rear discs, and no $200 to buy another swap off ebay or hmotorsonline. So anyway, when I got pulled by that Turbo'd Golf a few weeks back, when I went to stop in a hurry from 90 mph or whatever it was, my brakes started to give out a couple seconds into the stop, and I almost didn't stop in time for the next red light. Needless to say I was a little scared. So will this master cyl help my crappy DX brakes, or do I have to just go for the swap later when I have the dough again?

I'd still go for the swap personally. drums are teh suck.

 

[posol]

if you're fading coming from one single 90 mph stop, you have more serious problems than needing a rear disc swap or master cyl swap.

you need some new front rotors, pads and brake fluid.

 

[92dxhatch]

Quoted post[/post]]
if you're fading coming from one single 90 mph stop, you have more serious problems than needing a rear disc swap or master cyl swap.

you need some new front rotors, pads and brake fluid.

no kidding! even if you brakes were fine, yes it will help quite a bit in stoping power, but keep in mind, if you want the full potential of that MC, you will need that rear disk setup. good luck bro!

 

[phyregod]

Quoted post[/post]]
if you're fading coming from one single 90 mph stop, you have more serious problems than needing a rear disc swap or master cyl swap.

you need some new front rotors, pads and brake fluid.

This is true.. When is the last time you changed your brake fluid??

I try to flush and change mine at least twice a year. Brake fluid that is old and contaminated will boil really easy and cause bad brake fade. Every car I've ever purchased had old nasty brake fluid in it.

 

[confusatron]

Brake fluid was all new when I did my also new EBC green stuff brake pads in October. I only had a problem with fade that time with the Golf, and I think it was due to doing multiple 90 to 0 stops in sequence in a short span of time (the password is: HEAT). The brakes are perfectly fine in normal driving, but when you heat them up in rapid succession like that, they fade. I just was wondering if the MC would have much of an effect on that, but I think I just answered my own question. It also could be dire need of new rear brake pads, which I've never checked to see how they were.

 

[posol]

rear brakes do between 10 and 20% of your baking. its all in the fronts man.

what kind of rotors do you have, and what kind of fluid?


the larger master will simply allow for less pedal travel per braking force applied.

 

[confusatron]

Quoted post[/post]]
rear brakes do between 10 and 20% of your baking. its all in the fronts man.

what kind of rotors do you have, and what kind of fluid?


the larger master will simply allow for less pedal travel per braking force applied.

OEM rotors that were on the car when I bought it. I was looking at some drilled and slotted rotors recently. I understand the theory behind them, but I've heard that they shred your pads pretty bad. Is that true? Are they a good or bad? And I'm using regular old brake fluid. I looked at some brake upgrades but they're all like $1000 for big rotors and calipers. I'm not gonna spend that much at this point.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Quoted post[/post]]


if the rears lock up, you're going for a ride.


trust me. do this mod. its 45 bucks. you'll love life

that was all i was intending to run on my fastbrakes 11" 4-piston front and 11" single rears. so don't say its not big enough .
stock ppv too. don't bother with the 4040 unless you absolutely need it. IMO, its not needed, especially when you have GOOD brakes.

your fluid and lines will do a lot too, so pick good stuff.

also, i had a GSR fluid resivoir. it holds more than a civic one. i think even the abs ones are bigger from the ex civics w/ abs. but the cup is still the same.

just gives you a little more fluid to play with for those hard mashes.

I upgraded to an Integra 15/16 master cylinder and booster on mine, and it felt great with the FastBrakes setup- 11 inches all around with 4 pistons up front and singles in the rear. I pulled over 1G on straight line braking easily.

Stock prop valve too.