ok here we go
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Engine -
Injen CAI - 120 --
Purchased April of '04
B series 60 mm throttle body - 50 shipped;
Purchased October 05 from eg6sir on Hondaswap
~
This TB will be ported to 62-63mm and will be installed at the same time as the SC unit.
GSR Camshafts & Gears - 75 shipped;
Purchased December 05 from Taco15 on Hondaswap
DC Sports 4-1 Header - 270 --
Purchased July of '05
Gutted 99 EX catalytic converter - 16 shipped;
Purchased October 05 from simplegreen on Civicland.com
RS*R Exmag catback - 600;
www.carxpressions.com/performance/RSR/exmag.html
Eventual engine build including forged rods and pistons.
you're going to want a 3" exhaust. yes, even with the supercharger. the 60mm will work, sure, but you're going to loose like 30 hp. seriously.
the throttle body won't really make any differece. bored or not, the intake manifold/charger will still be a bottle neck as its designed for a stock 60mm one, if not the 58mm one...
okie dokie... i won't try to talk you out of it...
Engine Management -
Virgin 92-95 Civic EX/Si P28 SOHC VTEC ECU
Hondata S200 Base unit - 295;
www.hondata.com
Hondata S200 Boost control upgrade - 200
A'Pexi VAFC II - Can't find price;
www.apexi.com/electronics.asp Don't believe I necessarily need it, but if the engine is built up, it couldn't hurt.
Don't bother with the vafc. it really just gets in the way when you have an EMS.
and seriously, look into crome if you want to do the chip thing. The s300 is bad ass and i would totally recommend it. but crome pro is 150 bucks instead of 495, and having used both, and tuned cars with both, i prefer crome. it's really just a better tool. it has more features, and the auto-tune set up is bad ass if you have a compatible wideband. the s200, is just, well, 2002 technology now. the latest vesion of crome came out a couple weeks ago...
its like the hole firefox vs ie thing. IE sucks and is 5 years old. lol same thing. the new version of firefox came out, what, 2 weeks ago?
if your response to this is "but no one here tunes crome, just hondata" then i wouldn't be going to them to tune you. seriously. the interface betwen crome and hondata is 90% identical. hell, most of the key board short cuts are the same. if they can't figure out crome in 5 min, they shouldn't be tuning cars. its not like this is a freaking speed pro unit...
you're not too far from some big cities-- i'm sure there's some tuners near you.
http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?p=23183#23183
theres one in ohio and one in illinois listed there. i dont know hwo far that is from you... and that is a VERY brief list, i'm sure. a lot of tuners will travel to you too... so keep that in mind.
Fuel -
Walboro 255lph fuel pump - 109;
www.streetrays.com
Stock B16 fuel rail - $35 shipped;
Purchased earlier in 2005 from someone on Hondaswap
Stock 240cc injectors
walbros are 89 bucks like everywhere... try another store.
240cc injectors simply won't cut it. you'll max out the injector at 1.5 psi at 4000 rpms.
with the hondata/crome, you're NOT going to be using the map bypass crap and fmu bullshit that the stupidcharger kit comes with
you're going to want some 550's. saturated will work best. and you'll need obd1 clips (importparts.com sells these)
440's might cut it, but i have no idea what the extended pulley will do, so 550s to be safe.
you can go the dsm route with the 450s, but then you gotta wire int he resistor box and crap.... and you're as lazy as i am, so just get some saturated 550's from RC
Drivetrain -
Skunk2 dual bend short throw shifter - 126.44;
www.skunk2.com Purchased in 2004
Fidanza Flywheel: 7.5 lbs weight - 285;
www.streetrays.com
ACT AI4-HDSS Clutch Kit (243 ft lbs capacity) - 461.48;
www.coximport.com
you might want to consider a beefier clutch... it will grab harder, put more power to the wheels, and last longer than a wekaer one that slips. i have the stage 4 in my car and it was totaly driveable. just make sure it's sprung. you don't need a x-puck. lol
light weight flywheels are over-rated for boosted applications IMO. just get your stock one re-surfaced.
I have one of three choices for an LSD, I like Quaife, but an experienced engine builder said go OBX. So I am considering it, since it's 620 cheaper.
OBX/Quaife/SPW CTR LSD - 375/995/1290; random sites I have saved elsewhere.
the obx design is a copy of the quaiffe.
but, the SS autocrome manifold is a copy of _INSERT_COMPANY_HERE who makes 'ram horn' manifolds.
and im sure you've seen the stories.
straight up, you get what you pay for.
and going inside a tranny is not an easy task.
just pulling it and installing it will take 2 or 3 hours for a novice...
and then getting insde thea gear box--- good luck. i won't even attempt that.
IMO, do it right the first time... get a quaiffe. lifetime warranty too
Suspension -
Megan Racing LCA (Lower Control Arms) - 105;
www.streetrays.com Purchased October 05
Megan Racing H Brace - 70;
www.streetrays.com Purchased October 05
Civic Type R Replica Rear upper strut brace -- Early '05
Purchased from someone on Hondaswap
This is where I get iffy. I haven't made up my mind because I get mixed reviews and advice depending on which board I ask on.
Coilovers/springs to choose from, eventually:
Ground Control Coilovers - 332.05;
www.prostreetonline.com
or
Cheaper non-adjustable lowering springs
Shocks to choose from, eventually as well:
Tokico Illumina
KYB GR2
Koni Yellow
suspension is the most important part of your car. don't skimp. staight up, you get what you pay for.
I had the konis, and i really wasn't impressed...
i hate ground controls-- they use a hex nut to lock it into place, and 80% of the time, its in the back and you can't see the damn thing. especialyl if you corner balance the car... 3/4 rotation to put the bolt in front will throw it all off. GC's are the only ones who do this. even the $10k coilovers don't do this.
their springs, are just eibachs. they really aren't anything special. don't let the internet hype fool you.
look into the d2 coilovers. they are like 800 bucks (500 for konis and 350 for the GC's are the same price anyway) and a lot of people have been saying great things about them. i personally have never seen them though, so this too may be more internet hype.
Brakes -
Front: 11.75" rotors with twin piston Wilwood calipers, Axxis pads
Rear: 11.0" rotors with single piston Wiwood calipers, Axxis pads
www.fastbrakes.com
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http://fastbrakes.com/shop/product_info.ph...products_id=367
New 4 piston calipers from Wilwood with dust seals provide the stopping power with this new kit.
Using the 11.75 inch 2 piece rotors, this kit is designed to fit under 15 inch wheels. This new caliper was designed for protection of the caliper pistons during rally racing and off-road useage. Kit contains the 4 piston aluminum calipers, performance pads, 2 piece 11.75 inch slotted & drilled rotors, adapter brackets, and braided steel front brake lines. 1996-2000 Civic Si or EX.
Do they mean 15x7" rims then? Cause they don't really specify, leading me to believe as long as you have stock size or wider rims the kit would fit.
I might have to call and inquire into this question.
overkill.
way over kill.
most people doing road race 24 hour events don't have brakes like that.
i had the 11" kit on the front of my hatch. there is NO WAY that a 11.75 will clear an si rim. noi way in hell. his site says it will clear the 15--- but its the Team Dynamics rims that Hasty sells that will clear. they are specially designed FOR big brakes. si wheels, are not.
IMO, do the 11" front w/ 4 piston kit (it comes with pads)
and simply do brembo blanks on the rears.
no need to change anything else other than your lines and fluid-- both of which will amke a huge difference. yoru stock master and ppv will be fine.
Rims -
Bolt Pattern: 4x100
Rim Size: 16x6" rims
Mille Miglia HT3 rims 155/each;
www.tirerack.com
or
Rota Circuit 10 rims 125/each;
www.zxtuner.com
or
something with a black 5-6 spoke design and polished lips.
Tires -
Winter
**Bridgestone Blizzak WS-50, 195/55/15
**Bridgestone Blizzak LM-22, 195/55/15
**Pirelli W-210 Snowsport; 195/55/15
Summer
**Yokohama AVS ES100 205/40/16
**BF Goodrich g-Force T/A KDW2 205/40/16
Falken Azenis 205/40/16
**Found on
www.tirerack.com
stick with a 15. once you actually make power, you're going to need the traction and sidewall a 15 will give you. plus, they are cheaper, and more tires are available. 15x7, 205/50/15 is where its at.
i've driven just about every tire and wheel combo out there... and that one is the best imo.
i had, lets see...
14x6 185/65
15x6.5 205/50
15x7 205/50
16x7 215/45
17x7 205/40
and the 15x7 is where its at.
sure, a 205 WILL fit on a 6" wide wheel, but thats about as smart as putting traction TA's on your car cuz the muscle car guy runs 'em (probably because they don't know any better... those tires suck)
Exterior -
ViS Carbon Fiber Hood - Stock style, No pricing;
www.visracing.com
ebay grille - 28 shipped
Purchased December 05
Interior - <span style="color:green">
Complete</span>
MOMO contoured shift knob -
Purchased for my Escort, installed in Civic.
** Autometer Instrument Cluster Pod - 75;
Purchased October '05
** Autometer 2 1/16" Oil Press Gauge - 55;
Purchased October 05
** Autometer 2 1/16" Boost Gauge - 64;
Purchased October 05
Autometer Pro yellow shift light with 7600 rpm Pill -
Got it for FREE from GSRCRXSi on Hondaswap.
** Found at
www.streetrays.com
ICE - <span style="color:green">
Complete</span>
** Kenwood KDC-C669 6-disc CD Changer - 144;
Purchased April 04
** Kenwood KDC-3025 CD Receiver - 144;
Purchased April 04
** Audiobahn AW1000Q 10" 600w Dual 4-ohm Voice Coil Component Sub - 135;
Purchased April 04
SPL Series II 400w single channel Amplifier - 65;
Purchased June 2004
** Kenwood KFC-1669S 6-1/2" 2-way rear deck Speakers - 50;
Purchased October 05
** Kenwood KFC-P605ie 6-1/2" Component System - 160;
Purchased October 05
** Found at
www.crutchfield.com
i don't care about any of this... so no comments from me on that... i think you can handel it. lol
I know B had a problem with some things on my old list. I had a different set of injectors for when the engine is built and more boost is added. I hadn't researched that far into it and threw out a random number based on initial findings and reading about low boost b16a's on this board, HT and CL. If he or anyone else can find me a walboro pump for under 109, link me. I'd rather buy that than the one I found.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1391837
$89 shipped.
and you DONT need the installation kit. all you need is the pump. it plugs right into the stock shit.
I know the exhaust will be too small for after it's boosted, I've considered that and since the exhaust is already purchased (if driftspeed ever sends me my fucking exhaust... I'm going to go with what I have). I can always upgrade later on to a 2.5" diameter catback when I have too much money.
like i said above, 3 is really where you want to be. the 60mm will work, but you're eat a lot of power with it.
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Yeah, I'll have to call them. And B, before purchasing 1200 dollar set of brakes I would have asked questions before hand anyway... cause I know what you're gonna end up saying once you see this.
maybe you'll post it on a mustang board first
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ok as long as they fit then
but 6 inches is still too thin for a 205
stock SRT rims are 6" and come stock with 205's
yeah, but srt's suck....
i can fit a 205 on a 4" wide rim with a damn good tire machine. doesn't mean its good for performance....
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Dont let people hate on the ES 100s ive got em on my prelude, and i rarely loose traction...when i do, its intentional. I really like the grip...i can take a high way exit u turn at 60 MPH, so if they are going to slip...thats when it is going to happen.
just because you don't have enough power, or push your car to the limits of tire road holding, does not make them a good tire.
they are great for a dialy driver tire... but they are hardly a great performer at anything else.
and yes, i'm waiting for turbomirage to come in and rant about how great they are......
and then another rant about how great agx's are.....
you get the idea... lol
