project: pissedoffsol
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brian11to1
Senior Member
Originally posted by civic15.8+Jun 12 2004, 05:09 PM-->
well if you are can i have it.
he isnt talkin about gettin rid of it dude... hes goin hardcore on parts.
welp, worked on the car some tonight... trying to diagnos the fuel pump problem
and well, survery says:
it's not a fuel pump problem.
Put the stock pump back in
ran for 2 min, pop.
opened up the helms... found out whats on the circuit:
-injectors
-pump
-ecu
-o2 heater
injectors were never re-wired and are saturated, so we assumed them to be ok for now.
pump, we ruled out, cuz we put th eknown working stock pump back in, and it still happened.
ecu, didn't touch... really can't. i have the 3-bar map, and 750cc injectors. if i plug in the stock p28 sans hondata, im going to A- run like ass if at all with no map plugged in, and B- the 750's, uncontrolled, are either not going to A- idel, or B- cause serious washout on the cyl walls.
skip for now.
o2. hrm. simply unplugged it. ran car for about 20. no poppage. hrm... could this be it? turned car off. plugged it back in. ran car for about 15-20 again. still no pop.
ruled out.
so, other than the ecu being bad, or the hondata socketing being wrong (which it can't be if it runs the car, right?) which was all brand new from hondata themselves- even the p28 is hondata chipped (their pre-socketed ecu and all). mind you, i have no codes and the car ran fine for over an hour before it blew the first fuse...
:unsure: :unsure:
just don't know anymore. pretty much ruled out all 4 things on the circuit. there's nothing left to test
if anyone has any insight, please share.
and well, survery says:
it's not a fuel pump problem.
Put the stock pump back in
ran for 2 min, pop.
opened up the helms... found out whats on the circuit:
-injectors
-pump
-ecu
-o2 heater
injectors were never re-wired and are saturated, so we assumed them to be ok for now.
pump, we ruled out, cuz we put th eknown working stock pump back in, and it still happened.
ecu, didn't touch... really can't. i have the 3-bar map, and 750cc injectors. if i plug in the stock p28 sans hondata, im going to A- run like ass if at all with no map plugged in, and B- the 750's, uncontrolled, are either not going to A- idel, or B- cause serious washout on the cyl walls.
skip for now.
o2. hrm. simply unplugged it. ran car for about 20. no poppage. hrm... could this be it? turned car off. plugged it back in. ran car for about 15-20 again. still no pop.
ruled out.
so, other than the ecu being bad, or the hondata socketing being wrong (which it can't be if it runs the car, right?) which was all brand new from hondata themselves- even the p28 is hondata chipped (their pre-socketed ecu and all). mind you, i have no codes and the car ran fine for over an hour before it blew the first fuse...
:unsure: :unsure:
just don't know anymore. pretty much ruled out all 4 things on the circuit. there's nothing left to test
if anyone has any insight, please share.
sohcslammer
Senior Member
Fuck B, that took me like a DAY to read. I havent been around in a couple months. Glad to see you finally got your motor put in. Sorry to hear it's fucked up.
I think it may have something to do with the hondata. I heard that even the hondata runs poorly with huge injectors. Just recently I have heard from a few sources that to run 720s or larger you should run the Motec, AEM, FAST, or another one that starts with an M that I can't remember right now.
That fucking blows B, I wish you the best of luck.... On a side note, I'm starting the B20 turbo very soon, let's see if I can get it done before you figure out your fuel problem....
j/k
I think it may have something to do with the hondata. I heard that even the hondata runs poorly with huge injectors. Just recently I have heard from a few sources that to run 720s or larger you should run the Motec, AEM, FAST, or another one that starts with an M that I can't remember right now.
That fucking blows B, I wish you the best of luck.... On a side note, I'm starting the B20 turbo very soon, let's see if I can get it done before you figure out your fuel problem....
j/k
I agree, check with a current meter. Just remember you have to hook it up IN LINE, meaning disconnect the wire, and then hook up your current meter in series with the wire you are testing.
If you don't do that you get a bogus number. Good luck.
(if you already knew, oh well)
If you don't do that you get a bogus number. Good luck.
(if you already knew, oh well)
Citizen_Insane
Senior Member
Yeah, sorry B, but I think that its about time you recheck all the wiring for that curcuit. You could have a short somewhere in there thats causing the fuse to pop. That would also explain why the fuse pops randomly, and not at an exact time (like 5 min after starting or whatever).
Originally posted by spectacle@Jun 13 2004, 08:44 PM
maybe everyone's overthinking this. just run a bigger fuse?
just my 2cents
The reason the fuse is blowing out is becuase there's something wrong and it's sending TO MUCH CURRENT therefor putting a bigger fuse will fix the problem of blowing a fuse
however....
Lets put it this way Take a PS2 and use the wrong power adapter lets say go from a AC 9v adapter to a DC 12v adapter...
let me know how it works =)
but wouldn't using the bigger fuel pump cause more current to be flowing throught that circuit? bigger pump = more current.
logic dictates that if stock pump is using fuse A and bigger pump requires more juice then stock pump, then bigger pump will blow fuse A
just trying to help. i wanna see this running just as bad as everyone else
logic dictates that if stock pump is using fuse A and bigger pump requires more juice then stock pump, then bigger pump will blow fuse A
just trying to help. i wanna see this running just as bad as everyone else
