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questions about current turbo setup..

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by b16stalyun, May 8, 2008.

  1. b16stalyun

    b16stalyun New Member

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    1) i did goto 440cc injectors w/ stock fuel pump. however i am expierencing a rough idle and the car kills itself.
    2) the car hesitates when driving at a steady pace. it has the "sputters" where it dies then comes back.
    3) I am currently at 6psi on a t3/t4 @ 205whp. the motor has 100k on it. do you think I would be ok with going with maybe ~9psi?
    4)going up in boost would raise the power of the motor, would more boost shorten the life of the motor?

    thanks alot!:D
     
  2. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    Find out why it is breaking up first. Sounds like a spark issue, possibly fuel system issues as well.
     
  3. t3t4delsol

    t3t4delsol New Member

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    the car is tuned correct? 440cc are a odd number sized injector, I had a similar issue when I was on lower boost when they were installed. It took my tuner a long time to get the idle smooth
     
  4. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    werd to the tune. if you upped injectors on a stock map, thats gonna be your problem. running WAY too rich.
     
  5. b16stalyun

    b16stalyun New Member

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    the car was tuned. im using MAP-ECU2. he said if the idle doesnt fix itself within 500miles then bring it back and well take another look. he said the mapecu needs to learn what the car is doing and it will trim the fuel. he said the "hesitation" was normal.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2008
  6. t3t4delsol

    t3t4delsol New Member

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    I never used any of map ecu products, but like I posted above the 440cc I used before took a long time to get a smooth idle, they are a odd sized injector, well atleast thats what my tuner told me. As far as the product working its self out I cant really see that happening, I would setup a appointment for a retune. The only other thing I could tell you is if your were tuned on a cold day the pressure drop in the air could have messed up your idle, but I would have had to have been pretty cold and tuners are usually smart enough to wait for nice days to tune.
     
  7. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    from what im reading about mapecu, you might just be running into piggy back syndrome. Its pretty difficult to tune the really low RPMs with one of those things.
     
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  8. b16stalyun

    b16stalyun New Member

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    thats what he said, the 440cc injectors would take awhile to reach that smooth idle. he said if it doesnt bring it back in 500 miles to retune.

    is there a break in period for a new turbo? would the oil have to be changed or anything? im using magnets on the oil filter and oil plug to get any metal shavings.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2008
  9. b16stalyun

    b16stalyun New Member

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    ok so according to this calculater Fuel Injector Calculator from WitchHunter Performance
    it says i need 564cc injectors (550cc would be more suited). right now i have 440cc injectors
    Horsepower at the flywheel: (205whp) so i guessed 275 at the flywheel
    Number of Injectors:4
    B.S.F.C.: 0.625
    Max Duty Cycle: 80%
    =564cc injectors

    1)do i need to upgrade the fuel pump
    2)did i go with too small of an injector?
    3)will i need to retune if i get a walrbo FP
    4)im thinking about raising the boost from 6psi to 8psi. ive read that it should be totally safe. will i need to retune to raise the boost to 8psi?
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2008
  10. t3t4delsol

    t3t4delsol New Member

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    yes get a walbro 255 fuel pump, 2psi will not throw it off to much you should be alright
     
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  11. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    True but your not going to need it in the lower rpm range, just in boost. 440cc injectors aren't an odd sized injector, they are actually very common, especially on sohc turbo setups. Your problem is in the tune. Your using a garbage piggy-back and need a good tune with a good engine management.
     
  12. 92civicb18b1

    92civicb18b1 The Trisexual

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    And if you plan on increasing boost, you definitely need to re-tune, by the way it sounds you need to re-tune anyway.
     
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  13. amadeuscr

    amadeuscr Member

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    Way too rich , piggyback is not working properly , , and don't wait 500 miles to re tune it , a not properly tuned car can cost you even more at the end.
     
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  14. b16stalyun

    b16stalyun New Member

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    they ran the car on a dyno to tune it. they made sure the car was running stoich and not lean. not saying i know more but im tryin to figure out why the piggy back isnt working properly or what the cause of this problem is. map-ecu2 is very well known(for supras) not really for honda's though. i paid 600$ for the map-ecu2 so i would expect it to work. is there any other software that i can use to make my car obd2 legal?

    its not just the idle im getting the hesitation. i get it at other rpm ranges. I only get it when im driving at a steady pace. Not when im accellerating. DAMNIT what is going on...
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2008
  15. amadeuscr

    amadeuscr Member

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    whats the setup ? engine ? ecu ?
     
  16. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    Piggyback fuel controllers arent reliable and just about all of them have intermittent problems. I would sell it and get it tuned on Hondata or Crome.
     
  17. amadeuscr

    amadeuscr Member

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    I am totally agree , piggy backs are not very realiable and precise , for that money I would have bought CROME PRO and all moates.net honda kit , and it would have been even cheaper !

    actually , that's what I did :) , and I still have the piggyback (obviously not connected), cause it makes me embarased to sell it to someone, plus everytime they ask me , I recommend CROME or Hondata , but not piggybacks !!

    PD : Blanco , whenever you are , thank you , lol
     
  18. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    Live and learn.... than you get Crome. :)
     
  19. b16stalyun

    b16stalyun New Member

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    ok, so how do i get hondata and maintain a legal car? (obd2)
     
  20. b16stalyun

    b16stalyun New Member

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    I did some research and i was thinking it was a sensor problem like the TPS or the IAC valve. but im not getting a CEL.



    1)I watched them tune it and it ran stoich all the way through the dyno pull. I dont remember what the exact A/F was. But if it was a fuel pump problem wouldnt it sputter when im in wide open throttle? it only studders when im not wide open.
    2)blanco: you said a wide open dyno pull is different than just driving casually on the street. Whats the difference?
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2008
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