Replacing bent valve/cylinder on CRX 87. Please help.

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checked belt with gun...
you check IGNITION timing with a gun...
what did he do to adjust it? did he rotate the distributor? or did he move the crank vs cam gears to set the motor back in time ie: cam to crank timing, aka when the valves open in relation to where the pistons are in their travel...

this leakdown test... where can i get it done? My brother left to califorinia for 7 days and he told he was done with this piece of crap...so much for family.
you need a leak down tester and a compressor...
do you have a compressor?

The fellow I bought this car from says that it happened a when he was taking turn nothing too special just a turn. After that the car wouldn't idle properly and the he suspected lost compression in one of the cylinders. The car drives alright when its hitting 3thousand RPM but has trouble in the lower RPMS.

turn and lost compression have nothing to do with one another unless he was low on oil and scored the cylinder walls...
i'd suggest a compression test before a leak down test...
compression tester is cheaper and no need for a compressor...

Also we started the car with two cylinders and it idled fine. However as soon we stuck the other too back the car was having up and down idles...
are you sure the wires and plugs are good for those 2 cylinders??
are you sure you don't have the wires mixed up?
 
In Regard to the belt he took off all the covers including the top (head gasket cover-- I am so sure i got this name mixed up with some other part -- but anyways the one that is black and says 16(or 12)vavles and he then released the belt and slid it off and rotated the gear that the timing belt is attached on (slowly) until he got the proper position (He was showing something about the lines aligning).

As for the distrubutor (assuming it is directly attached to the distrubutor cap) he loosened it and the cap also to find out where 1 is. But he tightened it all up.

Dont have a compressor or leakdown.

Brand-New NGK spark plugs. Wires are good.

As for there order we had trouble finding the exact order but after looking through two books and other places we got the correct order. The car start excellently. We have this saying in my language (russian): Starts from half a spin/turnover. Original - Nachenayet ot pol abarota!

But this car starts great! Better than many other vechiles I have tried.
 
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top cover is the valve cover...
sounds like the timing belt "jumped a tooth" meaning lost its alignment
as the piston travels up the cam needs to turn at the same time to let the valves close so they don't get smashed by the piston when it reaches the top of its stroke

it sounds very possible that one or more valves could be slightly bent but honestly, if it starts that well, why mess with it?

and how are you so sure the wires are good?
 
Mainly the reason I am sorta angery is that I have gas (or who the heck knows what that black crap is) spewing out of my exhaust. About maybe 1/3 of a cup every 10 minutes its on...

Its little spitting it out. Didnt happen before.

As for the cables... Easy way for me to check?

FYI: The exhaust is spewing out some bluish like smoke sometimes it seems. Could it be just because we readjusted the settings a bit? Also my car just has two pipes for the exhaust maybe I need the acutal exhaust system or what not?
 
the blue-ish smoke would be the car buring oil...
this can be from worn rings, or worn valve seals...
i've seen bent valves ruin valve seals leading to oil going into the combustion chamber and burning...

how long are you letting the car run for?
its natural for the car to have condensation etc in the exhaust...
its hard to imagine gas going into a hot exhaust and not igniting and burning at some point before it exits your exhaust system...

if the car really is just dumping raw fuel out the exhaust then you better pull your dipstick and smell the oil for gas...
if its not burning the gas thats going in, then its bound to leak down into the oil pan and corrupt your oil...
 
Acutally my brother told me that it is NOT burned (at least not all the way) gas. He says it is running pretty "rich". But he says that it will stop soon as I drive the car around a little.

What do you think?
 
do you have a check engine light? or a PMPFI light on in your gauge cluster?

if it starts, idles, and runs well, then i wouldn't do anything except drive the car...
check the oil for gas, make sure you keep oil in the motor and it should be a good beater car...
 
If no check engine light is on then I should be good then?

I will be sure to check the oil.

PS, Any one got two side lights for the crx? The ones right next to NOT below the headlights. The lane switcher lights. Also same goes for the in-car rear-view mirror. Anybody have anyother parts?
 
a check engine light tells you when there is something wrong with the electronics on the motor...
do you let the car reach normal operating temperature?
a car will run RICH when its not up to normal temp or if it has a check engine light on...

so if the check engine light is on we can find out why and then see if it helps your situation...
i would advise local junk yards or ebay for the parts you need...
 
Wow.... Starting to work on the engine.

Here is some info.

Compression test: 125, 130, 0 (3rd...), 130

Top piece of cam shaft is broken in two places on the left hand side.

Valve on the left bottom 2nd: Its middle "stick" is popped left. Looks like it lost piece holding it centered.

Farthest right "bolt hole" underside is rugged. The remain two on the left are smooth.

See pictures.
 

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If no check engine light is on then I should be good then?

I will be sure to check the oil.

PS, Any one got two side lights for the crx? The ones right next to NOT below the headlights. The lane switcher lights. Also same goes for the in-car rear-view mirror. Anybody have anyother parts?

PM airjockie. im sure he will have the things you need.
 
Some good news to report. Replaced the rocker arm, added the "stick" holder, and smoothed out those rough edges. The car has very nice compression in the 3rd cylinder!! 130-140 PSI!

Also found out yesterday my car is officially a 1987 Honda CRX Si!

Can I celebrate just yet? Is my car good?

P.S> We got the compression up yesterday but once again we are having trouble with the blasted firing order. I tried the one I originally had (with the bad compression) but that doesnt seem to work.

Does anyone have a picture of the proper order? I know the other thread has diagrams but I want a living picture to make sure I not missing something.

Thanks,
Dimitriy
 
Some good news to report. Replaced the rocker arm, added the "stick" holder, and smoothed out those rough edges. The car has very nice compression in the 3rd cylinder!! 130-140 PSI!

Also found out yesterday my car is officially a 1987 Honda CRX Si!

Can I celebrate just yet? Is my car good?

P.S> We got the compression up yesterday but once again we are having trouble with the blasted firing order. I tried the one I originally had (with the bad compression) but that doesnt seem to work.

Does anyone have a picture of the proper order? I know the other thread has diagrams but I want a living picture to make sure I not missing something.

sounds like you're making some progress
not sure exactly what you mean by your terms, but it seems as if you're getting it back together

is someone helping you with this? cause parts in a head/valvetrain move very very fast and if you miss one small thing it could put you back to square one...

i'd suggest you use the diagrams, look at the distributor pics and the motor pics, and just follow along, unless someone else shows you a picture
or look on ebay for engine bay pictures and try to see how their wires go
 
helping you

Just as reckedracing is saying you need to get a timing leakdown tester and a compression tester. Leak down will tell you u exactely where the problem is coming from. You also need to test every cylinder at top daed center and your brother can run you through this. It would be wise to check every cylinder before you pull the head off. and if your cylinders are scared you'll know when you pull the head off.
 
Just as reckedracing is saying you need to get a timing leakdown tester and a compression tester. Leak down will tell you u exactely where the problem is coming from. You also need to test every cylinder at top daed center and your brother can run you through this. It would be wise to check every cylinder before you pull the head off. and if your cylinders are scared you'll know when you pull the head off.
thanks for the reply but you're going to confuse the kid, he already did a compression test and has the head off...
 
bent valves

Well then he needs to put each valve in a cordless drill and spin it and he would be able to visually see if a valve is bent. Also obviouselly make sure the valve is in the drill straight to get some good readings. He also needs to make sure the seats aren't burnt off and his brother would be able to make sure of that and inspect his guides, defenitely on the exhaust side, becausse hondas' are nictorious for valve guides swelling and warping when heat comes back up through the valve. :)
 
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