Whats going on gentlemen, its a pleasure to be a part of hondaswap now......but i need some advice fellas. I just sold my truck and my bike, and bought a 96 civic ex. I got 12grand.....Im trying to put my dream car together...a fast, efficent, B18c1 boosted setup. My goals are too get to some where between 300-350 whp with this money ive put together. Im thinking jdm b18c1 (lsd?) im just not sure what be the most efficent/cost effective way to go as far as putting this setup together. Oviously it depends on the tuner, and i am confident with the tuner in my area and i plan on going with hondata s300. I guess im concerned with the best size turbo setup (turbo trim, fmic piping size, intake piping size, etc.....) details,details i know. I dont want to go with a straightfrom the factory turbo kit becase honestly their isnt one that i would consider to be flawless......they all are way over priced and all of them have at least one crumy thing about them......Please help with engine setup, and what size ri should i run with on the street with this paticular application. thanx fellas.
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Stock internals boosted b18c1 best set up? cost? Goal 300-350whp
- Thread starter BamaBoy22
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Ok listen, take your civic.
First swap your motor in.
Get a Bar cert so its legal in case you get pulled over.
Then get a turbo. Rev hard or Drag or make your own.
Then get nitrous.
Drive around, just get used to the car.
Your motor will blow up eventually.
Then Rebuild your motor based on specs you want, pistons, whatever. Its your car and mods, that you have are your build.
Advise that people will give are their set up, not yours.
Fast cars are not really that reliable. So have a tow truck handy. Bearing might be going out and you're loosing oil pressure and you're in the middle of mohave desert. Yeah!
First swap your motor in.
Get a Bar cert so its legal in case you get pulled over.
Then get a turbo. Rev hard or Drag or make your own.
Then get nitrous.
Drive around, just get used to the car.
Your motor will blow up eventually.
Then Rebuild your motor based on specs you want, pistons, whatever. Its your car and mods, that you have are your build.
Advise that people will give are their set up, not yours.
Fast cars are not really that reliable. So have a tow truck handy. Bearing might be going out and you're loosing oil pressure and you're in the middle of mohave desert. Yeah!
bar cert? Good point.....I guess i was aking the wrong question. I would like to have the option of 3hundo or a lill more. like if i go to the track one weekend or race some old dude in a viper. I wouldnt want to run around town at 12psi and 350 whp....their is no point. Honestly, i wouldnt mind between 225-250whp around town just so long as you can do that kind of setup efficently. But, if i did go with that type of setup (where i can just change my boost settings and bump up the power safely and efficently)? i ask this because when you get your car tuned on the dyno, you are setting your air/fuel, fuel pressure, etc... to one setting at a specific whp that you and your tuner are comfortable with. Or can you just turn your boost up on your controller and everything aautomatically adjusts? For some reason i feel like their is more to it than that? any thoughts?
Also, if i ran this type of setup...did my best to take care of it...do you think it would still blow. i guess from what ive read no matter what you do to a boosted b series motor or any honda motor for that matter, your motor will blow eventally....is this true?
if so, what is the main culpret behind honda engines failing under boost after x amount of time? Whats the best way to avoid this?
Finally, when the motor does go....is just the block that goes? Just like rins, pistons, or rods. because it seems keeping stock compression and sleeves and not damaging the crank or sleeves...you would just have to change out your eagle rods, rings, arias pistons, every couple years or so. that is im not racing the shit out of it every day. Doesnt seem so bad if you only had to change the block internals so often as long as i went with prime equip. thoughts?
thanx again fellas...im just trying to do this right the first time
Also, if i ran this type of setup...did my best to take care of it...do you think it would still blow. i guess from what ive read no matter what you do to a boosted b series motor or any honda motor for that matter, your motor will blow eventally....is this true?
if so, what is the main culpret behind honda engines failing under boost after x amount of time? Whats the best way to avoid this?
Finally, when the motor does go....is just the block that goes? Just like rins, pistons, or rods. because it seems keeping stock compression and sleeves and not damaging the crank or sleeves...you would just have to change out your eagle rods, rings, arias pistons, every couple years or so. that is im not racing the shit out of it every day. Doesnt seem so bad if you only had to change the block internals so often as long as i went with prime equip. thoughts?
thanx again fellas...im just trying to do this right the first time
idk man...i dont like either kit cuz both come w/ semi shiity bovand wastegates. plus tiny intecoolers...not to mention log manifolds that arent coated in that super polished stuff have a tendencey to crack i believe. also way over priced. if you shopped around for teh same stuff online and at yor local parts palce...you could put it togther for like 2-2500. insted of like 35-4000 for dragIII or revhard.
First tune your car to something like 5 psi and then 12 psi or whatever. Because your tires will not be able to grip (street) when you start at 12 psi in 1st gear.
So at low boost run 1st and 2nd gear and then raise boost higher ( boost controller) in 3rd gear and you have more horsepower. And you have less problem with grip. I think that if you have more than 150 lbs of torque you will not be able to grip in first to second gear, you'll just burn out.
Now you want to run with Vipers. Park Next to one. Back your car in a parking space next to a Viper. Now Check how W-I-D-E Viper tires are in the back and how skinny Honda tires in the front. Yeah you can have all the power you want, if you can't grip you lose.
Detonation is what kills your motor. Sounds loud. When you have alot of timing/boost either or so back off alittle timing and lower boost a bit.
Another is when you boost, your motor gets hot. When it gets hot, piston expands and scratches cylinder walls. Then your're burning mad oil. Thats melting a piston.
You mentioned eagle, arias etc. Have you build LS/VTEC before?
So at low boost run 1st and 2nd gear and then raise boost higher ( boost controller) in 3rd gear and you have more horsepower. And you have less problem with grip. I think that if you have more than 150 lbs of torque you will not be able to grip in first to second gear, you'll just burn out.
Now you want to run with Vipers. Park Next to one. Back your car in a parking space next to a Viper. Now Check how W-I-D-E Viper tires are in the back and how skinny Honda tires in the front. Yeah you can have all the power you want, if you can't grip you lose.
Detonation is what kills your motor. Sounds loud. When you have alot of timing/boost either or so back off alittle timing and lower boost a bit.
Another is when you boost, your motor gets hot. When it gets hot, piston expands and scratches cylinder walls. Then your're burning mad oil. Thats melting a piston.
You mentioned eagle, arias etc. Have you build LS/VTEC before?
what ive been told to go with is the full race ac stage III the one with the gt35r i it was the .83 ar and t04s i believe. me and my shop were thinkin
competition stage II clutch
aem fuel reg.
hondata s300....didnt ask about crome but i will
custom 25 cold 3.0 hot piping
apexi ni muffler/ 3.0 inch custom exhaust
msd coil
victor x manifold
44mm bdl throttle body
arp head studs
greddy profec b
plugs/ wires
on a jdm b18c stock internals....they are telling me i would have no problems with this setup and a good tune, as long as i keep the bost at like 5-7 psi around town.
I know the head on the b18c doesnt flow quite as well as the b16 so it needs to be upgraded but this much?
Also i was actually looking up info on ls/vtech today......i found a jdm b18b long block for650....does this come with the complete block, and i can get a b16b for like 4000 shipped. im thinkin sell the b16b block.....im sure somebody would want it and slap the head on the ls. Would probably have to change internals in the block first....should i resleeve,or maybe go for like a dart block instead with like a b16a2 head and tranny ($2000). a say this because it seems to me that the only thing that isnt indestructable is the block. So maybe do go with a honda block but a dart one. Quite expensive though and the b16a2 block would be hard to get rid of i think?
competition stage II clutch
aem fuel reg.
hondata s300....didnt ask about crome but i will
custom 25 cold 3.0 hot piping
apexi ni muffler/ 3.0 inch custom exhaust
msd coil
victor x manifold
44mm bdl throttle body
arp head studs
greddy profec b
plugs/ wires
on a jdm b18c stock internals....they are telling me i would have no problems with this setup and a good tune, as long as i keep the bost at like 5-7 psi around town.
I know the head on the b18c doesnt flow quite as well as the b16 so it needs to be upgraded but this much?
Also i was actually looking up info on ls/vtech today......i found a jdm b18b long block for650....does this come with the complete block, and i can get a b16b for like 4000 shipped. im thinkin sell the b16b block.....im sure somebody would want it and slap the head on the ls. Would probably have to change internals in the block first....should i resleeve,or maybe go for like a dart block instead with like a b16a2 head and tranny ($2000). a say this because it seems to me that the only thing that isnt indestructable is the block. So maybe do go with a honda block but a dart one. Quite expensive though and the b16a2 block would be hard to get rid of i think?
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