"stock" pistons to raise comp --B20b??

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are you talking about "pinning" the block when you say epoxied bolts through the walls?
 
D15beater: The ports on both of these engines I have look to be the same. Strange?
One would have to mix up a silicone putty, pour it in a "clean" port, let it harden, and remove and check with other heads ports..
BUT I don't have that stuff. It would answer q's though on where it could be ported better.

Injen: If that's what it's called like in the above pic, then yes. BUT, that would only support (1) particular spot on that whole side..

I tried taking pics but the flash makes the dial face unreadable or bright white.
I emailed the pics to myself so I have them on my laptop here at work, so If any peeps would take a swing at posting/keeping I can send them.
I just didn't want to get off of the original post. and add block dims to a thread for high comp pistons.
(I hate wasting precious TIME doing a search for something and have to read thru hundreds of threads of kids whining about something insignificant to the thread because they don't have a life except for porn, games and flaming on someone.)
SO with that said, I or someone else could start a thread on a block comparison. I'll send the pics of what I have/come up with. I'd have to have the wife/handler work the camera while I measure (stop that! I know what you're thinking) to get a vid uploaded.

E
 
yep thats called "pinning" youd be better off getting a block guard..but you can also check how much cfm's with water..
 
you mean CC's.. If I can find my plastic, i'll cut a chunk out and use it.
I have a syringe from one of the kids but no barrette.
OH well, it will be close enough. There is a farmers Co-op not too far away that have monster ones for horses and cattle. Like 100-300cc's (ouch!) Oh, and use Green mint rubbing alcohol so if you're an ol fart you can see it.

I looked at the gaps/water jackets around the cyls and there are little raised sections right adjacent to the headbolt bosses. It's just a little bump. Maybe .040?? over about an inch. I guess it could be ground down 'cause the gaurds get welded it then you deck it.. right ??
I wonder if there are any engine builders out there that can say for sure where the 'fail' occurs with these 'thin' B20b bores..

Man. That must be tedius to bore these out and then press a sleeve in them.
That would make a tough B18, by boring a b20b block, sleeving it down to a 84mm, O-ringing and boostin to___!
If I can find my wire cup for my die-grinder, I'll clean up the surfaces tonight.

Anywho, Anyone know a good cheap supplier for B20Z pistons?

E
 
you can raise your compression by using phk pistons in your b20b because they are used in B20z engines, that usually have 9.8:1

Aftermarket forged aluminum pistons arent that expensive, I think RS machines makes 11:1 84mm pistons at a good price.

If you want a better flowing head, I would get a vtec head. If not just P&P the head (would be cheaper if you use a vtec head).
 
Thanks for the good info.

BUT, I just can't afford custom slugs right now.
I think I'll look for std pistons, (Have them coated top/skirts to take up space) Hone, deck the block n head .015, mess with adjustable gears, back cut the valves, and hog out the ex ports and use a header w/ 2 1/2+" pipes.
I may even try Colt Cams - custom camshaft grinding to see if it would be cost effective to regrind the cams or not.

There was a local here that had a bare B20 block/head that I might get (VERY CHEAP) just in case I mess something up..
And if I sell my 3rd gen Prelude I might get a GSR Vtec head too!

I did finish tearing the blocks down last night and 'waddyaknow' The cranks are knife edged and double counterweighted from the factory!!! (well, more like a rough angled castting compared to a true knife edge.. But Hey!)
The caps seem kinda small though.

ANONE: How do you get that dang crank pulley bolt out with the crank out on it's own??

Later, gotta jet

E
 
you cant get it out...your gonna have to take it to a shop or something and hope they dont fuck the crank up..
 
high powered impact is all that i can think of. maybe put the other end of the crank in a vice with some foam wrapping it so it doesnt get messed up.
 
I'm gonna try and wrap the crank in cardboard and drive my truck over it to sink it in the dirt and then put a 5' pipe on my breaker bar and see if it's up to it's name.

OR, Maybe I'll freeze it over night..? (yes it's out of the block. It took a while, but I did it)

Anywho, Anybody want the pics associated with what I described?

E
 
neither of those sound like particularly good ideas. It'd be fun to see, but not recommended at all.
 
I'm gonna try and wrap the crank in cardboard and drive my truck over it to sink it in the dirt and then put a 5' pipe on my breaker bar and see if it's up to it's name.

OR, Maybe I'll freeze it over night..? (yes it's out of the block. It took a while, but I did it)

Anywho, Anybody want the pics associated with what I described?

E

You need a big ratchet strap, wrap it around the crankshaft pulley and around a pole, post, where it holds the pulley still, then with a big breaker bar and some ass it should break free. I had to do this with a C27a4 just a while back. It works...
 
and to think when i couldnt get that bolt off changing a water pump....i just put the other end of the rope on the hitch of a truck rather than going to the whole pulley thing.
 
and to think when i couldnt get that bolt off changing a water pump....i just put the other end of the rope on the hitch of a truck rather than going to the whole pulley thing.

Did this work?:eek: Wait....dont answer that..
 
it did. we had to replace a side mirror too, but luckily it wasnt my car and wasnt my idea. :laughing1:
 
Well I didn't get poop done yesterday car-wise, but totally forgot of a semi-truck shop right up the street. I may just take it there and see if they have a impact that will take it off.
Plus, I bought them 'bar-b-q' sandwiches a few weeks ago because they let me store my p/u/trailer there in the secured area till I got it running.
Hhhhmm. (and I saw a HUGE turbo sitting in back of their parts truck)

With all these "ways" of breaking a NUT, and all the times i had to run the kids over to the neighbors so I could sit and wait for stitches at the minor-med, makes me more inclined to go to the shop..
But, there's that part of me that really wants to get that big pipe out..

BTW, Why O Why is it that every Minor-med has a "Helga" there to scrub out your 'gash' with that Iodine solution just to say "NOPE, Nutink more in deer"?? I just think that she's supposed to try and tear it open more to get paid for another stitch or two.

E
 
There is a couple people who make tools to hold the crank pully while you break the nut free. One company is moroso. Here is a link to that tool.
Moroso : Category Display

I have seen other ones online that are designed like the moroso tool but have a spot to hook a breaker bar on instead of a built on handle. Those designs are a little cheaper. If you want you can make your own tool. I took some 1/4 plate steel and cut it in the shape of a handle. Then I drilled out two holes that would match up with the crankshaft. I screwed the handle to the crank with some flywheel bolts, this gives you some thing to freeze the crank still with while breaking the bolt free.

The easiest way for sure is a good 1/2" impact with some serious air pressure behind it. I turn my regulator up to 135 psi and my impact rips them free like yesterday's business.
 
Yeah, I'd like to see a "group buy" on these for around 5-7$ instead of 30+$$..
I had a friend tell me he would put a breakerbar on the bolt and then turn the motor over with the key and it would work breaking them loose..?
That doesn't sound right. The bolt needs to go the same direction..?

INJEN78: Well Yes there is a difference in cams. Kinda suprising also.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> B18a >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< B20b <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Intake: base=_____1.105 base=_____1.1025
lobe=_____1.316 =.211-lift lift=_____1.3075 =.205-lift

exhaust:base=_____1.105 base=_____1.110
lobe=_____1.309 =.204-lift lobe=_____1.1.320= .215-lift

Now these measurements were taken from USED cams of which are untold mileage.
Maybe using the B18's intake cam with the B20's ex cam would be a slight performance gain..(there is only a few thou difference)
AND does the B18 compensate with a smaller base circle to make up about the same lift??
BUT in which head?? I'd really like to know which one has the bigger ports.
I'm leaning toward the B20 head just because of the addition of water passages around the c-chamber. If they were 'coated' and flat faced valves, i wouldn't worry about melting something.

Maybe I'll just Email Endyne and ax them if they found any difference.
They might just talk me into one of their new heads.. Heck for about 6-bills I wouldn't have to worry about anything.. Well, maybe to pay for it.

E
 
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