Valve Train

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I was just asking a question, that is all. And it seems to be a "silly question" were else am I suppose to come and ask? I been planning to build a motor for a while now, and dont want to run into a bad sitution.

no no man, that wasnt tward you at all. i was talking to 97hatch. your cool. if it wasnt for your "silly" question, i may not have ever heard that. i'm still hoping he can come back with some info. it's hard to search for that on google because everybody is talking about cams and dropping valves, not boost pressure in the cylinder and exiting the head.

you found the dyno chart helpful tho, no? it was better than me trying to just explain that stock cams dont produce power that high. dyno charts do that statement justice much more effectivly imo. and what did you ever decide about the valves? just curious
 
You said reason 2 to change valves is for that extra few hundred RPM. Do you mean the stock valves can only operate to a certain RPM? What happens at that RPM? Is it just a valve weight issue, or is there a structural defficiency with the factory valves? I ask because the head i bought already has buddy club springs and retainers in it, and im wondering if valves are are gunna be a must for me, even tho im not over sizing them.
 
My question to this all is why do you need after market vlves for your car? You want to get the most out of your head setup get these parts to assist the turbo.
Forced Induction Cams
DUAL VALVE SPRING/RETAINER KIT

I have Brain Crower ones waiting to install in my B18B OBD2 engine once it gets here from Japan.
 
Springs and retainers help with RPM, cams help with RPM and flow, valves help with flow. An undercut valve will allow more flow, which will let more air into the chamber. Also, if im not mistaken, a lighter valve is more stable at high RPM.
 
Very infomative.

YB: Thanks for the video and the info. :D

Scott: Thanks for the breakdown once again. :
 
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