Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by 99sidude, May 13, 2009.
Clean 97' ek hatch with jdm ITR swap. Guy is asking $4500. Think it's a good deal?
it its got suspension and wheels too, thats a damn good price if its mint.
Nice complete ITR swap is going to be $4,000+
The rest is a bonus. So yeah, Jump all over it.
97 hatchback ITR SWAP!!! cheap or trade
Here's the link. Hopefully none of you jump on it before I do.
Best part is the current owner works at one of the honda plants assembling vehicles, so you know the guy knows his shit. God, I go from looking at vettes and dreaming about v8 miatas, and nothing excites me more than some shitty b-series hatch. Someday I'll grow up.
The thing that concerns me is the "port and polish head". Who the hell needs to do any work to an ITR head. Then he says he has an upgraded valvetrain, but says nothing about a different set of cams or if/how it was tuned.
I would certainly check it out.. but.. a couple of red flags.. "GSR fat 5's" pic shows steelies. "Comptec header" Pic shows stock header. So those are either bullshit pics or old pics.
Certainly check it out man. If half of that is true, its still a steal of a deal.
The guy texted me a few pics that showed the header as well as the fat 5's. The wheels look like they were either painted or powercoated gunmetal.
I'm a little concerned about the port and polish. I've always understood this as unnececary on a honda, especially on a type r head, which comes ported from the factory. I really hope this wasn't some science experiment the guy did with a dremel.
The thing I like about this deal is that I can swap parts over from my current car onto the better chassis. Right now I have teg brakes on my 5th gen hatch. Does anyone know if they will also bolt up to the 6th gen cars, or am I going to have to get parts from an EM1 si?
that price is really good if the car is decent... a ek with itr swap would go for $6k in south florida
Sounds a little fishy with the pics vs. the details.
If you're that intersted...check it out and take it for a spin. If the guy seems shady..then just chalk it up to an experience. Just be ready to leave whenever.....if you think its worth less....shoot him an offer and if he don't like it...move on.
if you can check it out in person, i say why not.. if it seems fishy, walk away
Friend of 99sidude here. He fwd'd the txt pics to me and the car looks really clean. and the stance along with the black body w/ black fat 5's looks sick. I am interested to see the interior though to see how well it was maintained along with the underside which is the big problem with 99's current hatch. Good luck dude and let me know how it all goes, Still planning on checking it out? Make sure you bring it on next weeks camping trip if you do.
So I checked out the car today and I was a little dissapointed, but not turned completely off. The car was dirty inside and out. Cmon if your trying to sell a car clean the damn thing up. It has 2 front racing seats with 4 point harnesses. that are in nice shape and very comfortable. The car has teg rear seats, which do not fit. The lower center consol was missing a trim piece, and the shift boot is bad. The fat 5's have a shitty paint job and are starting to peel. Not bad tho b/c I prefer my si wheels.
The car is rust free all over. Some flaws are a cracked front bumper, the hood has some deep scratches, and there is one small dent in the rt rear quarter. It's like someone smacked it with a small ball peen hammer.
The car drives strait, the exhaust sounds nice, but the brakes seemed to have a little warp to them. The ITR engine pulls really nice and strong, the trans shifts great, and the LSD is amazing. That coupled with my blower would be nasty.
I have one concern with the motor. The guy did Skunk2 titanium retainers and better valve springs, but never got around to getting cams. The motor makes a little more valve noise than I'm used to for a b series. Anyone have experience with this aftermarket stuff causing a noisier valve operation?
Finally, the car likes to have a high ide (2500) for a couple of seconds after you drive it. I thought I've experienced every Honda idle problem, but never this. Any ideas?
FITV could be stuck open.. Assuming it has one.. Or the IACV could be stuck. Idle problems are usually minor annoyances that are easily fixed once tracked down.
Cleaning is free. ish.
Hit majestichonda.com for the trim piece and boot. Great prices.
Valve train noise shouldn't be there. Bring a feeler gauge, pop off the valve cover, and check the clearances. I bet he didn't adjust them after installing the springs.
As for the back seat, ebay it and buy a stocker, or go to a salvage yard and trade them.
Plus u work at Honda and get parts for cheap.
Wait wait wait.. You get to go to the honda auctions... Screw this thing and get an NSX. Just do it.
Yea if they had nsx's. Every once in a while there's an ITR or an sk2. Usually its all the mainstream cars. I've never seen an nsx, and if there was, i'd be one of 5000 people in the lottery to get it.
By getting parts cheap means I get them for 50% of what I'd pay at a dealer. Still $$$ for some parts.
Still 50% less then what the rest of us pay, GREEDY!!
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