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Actually, they appear to penetrate the IM runners further than stock. I don't foresee a problem with fuel atomization. But, they are adapted from a Ford installation. The rubber seals on the the bottom of the new injectors, where they interface with the IM are thinner than the OEM. They have anodized blue aluminum spacers that reside on the injector above the rubber seal/spacers. Overall length on the new injectors, with spacers could be shorter than the OEM - probably what you noticed. I assume full penetration into the IM and any "slack" at the top of the injector at the fuel rail interface. They are pictured. I haven't tried to fit them yet, I do anticipate some "Fit" work there. Perhaps custom spacers on the injectors themselves or change the spacers that go between the fuel rail and the intake manifold. I'll post up some pictures of the fit & installation of the new injectors when I do that work. Initial look doesn't appear to be a big deal to make them work correctly. But, it doesn't look like a "Plug and Play" situation, there will probably be some fit work required - to include custom machine work for adapter/spacers or some kind of bushings.Those new injectors.....they look like they don't go into the IM as much as the stock ZC's. Is it the picture and I'm seeing things or will that be a problem? Seems they need to go deeper into the IM
They are on the heavy side picking up a wheel. I equate that to them also being pretty robust and strong wheels. Probably lighter than comparable size steel, and a bit heavier than the smaller OEM steel wheels. Maybe next set of struts will be another step up in damping. What's on it now works well with the KYB struts, these shouldn't be much different in terms of weight.MBs aren't bad. Can be a little heavy IIRC. But we sold the shit out of them at DTD.
Yes, the Tranny Filler is a great tool. I got tired of the clusterphuk of filling the tranny with oil and in anticipation of another mess, finally made that up before filling the tranny after I did the swap.Also...love the transmission filler you made. I always make someone fill while I hold the plastic hose into the trans with 3-4 paper towels. Pain in the ass.
When you bored out the IM for Gude TB (Gude is super old school circa 1990's ) how was that process? I'm gonna (eventually) run a 70mm TB and thought I'd ask the difficulty level of the operation. My IM is $200 and I figure I'd weigh the options of DIY or machine shop. Hell....I already had to cut off a big chunk to make it work on my K20A (RBC IM is for a K20Z3 and top radiator inlet is much different between the two). Just curious how you made the line/guide for grinding?
I pulled the butterfly and shaft out of the TB, mounted the TB up to the IM plenum, marked it up with a fine marker, pulled TB off, and got after it with the sanding drums. It's really no more than a simple port match job.Cool....hour ain't bad. I think I'll try to tackle it. Just mount TB, open butterfly, trace and grind. But how does the butterfly open with a IM that is too small (in order to trace)?
That may be what I do. The speedo reads ~2 mph high at 35mph. The 205/45-16 circumfrerence should come pretty close in correcting the speedo problem. Probably closer than a 215/45-16 tire.I'd go 215/45-16, but that's me.
I did a little online research for 215/45-16's and what I have seen so far has a considerable price jump from the 205's, on the order of $50-60 per tire. Price range typically runs from $90-100 on mid grade 205's & jumps to ~$150 a tire for the 215's.Yup. 'Course, I want to put 255/40-17s on the CRX.