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Anyone??? :(

When engine is cold, starting is never a problem When engine is hot, stopped then re-started right away, there is no problem. Its only when left for more than a couple of minutes, it sometimes take alot of cranking to start the engine, after starting black smoke starts spewing out and idle is...

Its similar to a dual point to multi point fuel injection swap minus the resistor box (in place of the resistor box is a special OBD1 harness plug with a consolidated metal clip which you can direct your primary and secondary injector power lines to it and re-direct it to your OBD1 injectors...

Just wondering, is the knock sensor plug same as the temperature sender plug?

The IACVs on the B16A should be the same from OBD0 to OBD1 and different on OBD2 Civic Si. Since its throwing a code, you should probably check and measure the electrical connections to it before determining a replacement.

I am not sure whether my stock clutch disc / pressure plate is wearing out or my timing is off. Normal moving off and gentle acceleration its okay. Its only when I step on it (> 50% throttle), the engine revs high but I don't feel the G's. Another example when pushing it from 2nd from +4K rpm...

I've had the igniter failing or gone bad with no code. Replaced it and problems solved.

Failing igniter module? Same experience once, had to call tow. The rpm needle also acted up with it.

My mistake, always equate the red DOHC VTEC valve cover with Type R spec'd, which the H22A7 originally has. Took an awesome ride in a friend's modded Euro R, which led to this inspiration. Anyway, spending loads of cash!? I was thinking nothing much needs to be changed, your words proved...

Anyone performed a conversion on their 92-96 H22A1 or 97-01 H22A4 to Prelude Type R or Accord Euro R H22A7 specs? What are the items needed inside the motor (ie. cylinder head and block) besides the TB, intake/exhaust manifold?

Code 43 is indicating problem in the O2 sensor circuit or fuel supply system (poor driveability). Check and make good the IACV first to get rid of the high idle, its probably causing the car to throw that code 43.

Anyone has a similiar problem like mine? I finished a D16Z6 head on D15B2 block mini-me swap a few mths back and it was a one start attempt success. The head I observed was shaved so I probably have 11:1 cr. However, recently I've this occasional hot hard start problem. (Its not the main...

Actually, the black wire can be attached to any convenient spot on the chassis in the engine bay. For mine, since I am already running the other 2 VTEC wires with looming through the firewall, I ran an extra one for the black wire and spliced it to one of the multi-ground wires at the ecu harness.

Try resetting your ecu and get the code. Or you can test the resistivity of the ECT sensor when the engine is cold. The resistivity is inversely proportional to the temperature of the coolant. (Check manual for specified temps) A faulty ECT sensor can cause difficulty starting a cold engine and...

Info to widen your scope of availability. The green VTEC pressure switch is the same as the 2-wire grey IACV plug. Swappers who performed the DPFI to MPFI swap always have this extra tandem valve control solenoid plug you require for your VTEC pressure switch dangling around. For the knock...

Your OBD1 D15B VTEC distributor will not work with the OBD0 PM6 ecu, so go get the P08 or P28 and save yourself from a migraine later on.

It probably has something to do with the fuel pressure. Faulty check valve in fuel pump &/or faulty fuel pressure regulator. Do you get black smoke from the exhaust after managing to start, hot and cold?

Try checking out your fast idle thermo valve. Its located at the front of the intake manifold dashpot, fitted with two coolant hoses. Its probably not letting enough air through. Also check the engine coolant temp sensor and circuit. It may be shorted resulting in the hard start. (The ECU...