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Ya it doesn't sound like the engine is seeing the oil pressure at the vtec sending unit. Then when the vtec is supposed to engage it doesn't. I had the same problem with my mini me when I put my P28 in and didn't have the sensor hooked up.

:ditto: I did mine and its the first ECU i've ever chipped. Just do research on it first and use a good soldering/desoldering station. I used my ECU for my turbo z6 setup and now I have a B16 map on it with my own tune for the LS/Vtec. I have an ostrich though so I can change it while I'm...

Tuner toys is pretty good too. That's where I got my rods and pistons from and they have pretty good customer service. They even got me high compression pistons sent directly to me from SRP that weren't on the tt website.

?????? Re-time everything. Lign up the mark on the crank pulley with the mark on the belt cover and point the cam gear "up". Then that's out of the way and everything is definitely ok there.

If you use bigger injectors you will need to tune the ecu to the injector size so I would get injectors that will support more than what I need incase it may be needed later on and it would save from buying injectors again. Plus they are about 100 times cheaper than rc or precision injectors...

DON'T RUN THE LS TO 8K. It wasn't meant to rev that high and you are going to blow something out of your hood. There is no reason to rev it that high because it doesn't make power that high anyway.

Read read read. Make sure you read the LS/Vtec buildup threads so you are sure to build it and use all the proper parts.

Vtec makes me want to stick my manhood into it with ITB. Too bad it would hurt soo bad.

Just use some DSM injectors. They can be had cheap and will work fine with the resistor box. Even the non turbo injectors would be better than stock honda. I think they are 380cc. eBay Motors: 4 Injectors from a 93 Eagle Talon (item 170125576329 end time Jul-02-07 17:58:17 PDT)

The 1.8 also had A LOT more torque. The LS/Vtec is a nice engine if built properly. Just required more maintenance. I know, I have one. With high compression slugs and the proper build it can make gobs of NA power. 220 ish WHP if tuned properly.

I'd go with the 8.2:1 if its a street car. It will keep your off boost power a little higher than the 8.0:1. Not really by much but it will be a little better. If I was building a turboed street car I'd get with about 9.0:1 but its up to you and what you want to do. Also depends on the boost you...

I think its some kind of grounding problem. ELD just measures the load on the electrical circuit also known as current. If the load is too great then this code would be thrown. This would be the case with a bad ground and the increase in current would be caused by an increase in resistance (bad...

Ya check valve lash. If its a ticking valve then that should fix it. If not then you might be s o l.

I wouldn't do the LS/Vtec because to build it right so it will last costs some big $$$. I am in the process right now and am up around 3500 with the rods, bolt, head studs, srp pistons, new bearings, type r oil pump and water pump, etc etc etc. TURBO! It can be reliable with a conservative...

Install a Y8 intake manifold first. Should see a little gain from that and they can be had cheap then put the cold air intake on that.

Sounds like a coil overheating to me. Bad coil. Works for a while then when it heats up it quits.

Ya. P30s are good too but they yeild higher compression due to their bigger dome. Might be a little iffy on 91 octane.

PR4 pistons will work if he's running the stock cams. He can't use aftermarket cams with them though because the valve reliefs are not big enough. He can use some stock PR3 pistons though and bump his compression to 12:1. They run really well in my car on 91 octane.

This is helarious because the title of this thread is which d15 for high rpm and now he's saying that the doesn't want to rev it because he wants it to last. Sounds like he doesn't know what he wants.

Ya around 5600. 4k is way too low.