4000 k idle

Sed8ed

New Member
Grr, went and started the car up and it was idleing at 4000k. p75 ecu, obd2-obd1 adapter, dx wire harness, 93 ls motor in a 97 civic hatch

What pin is the map sensor on obd2? obd1?

I think the wire for the map sensor has come off or has broken somewhere but I can't for the life of me remember what pin is what. I tried tightening up the idle control screw but it only had about 2 turns on it before it was tight. Any other thoughts would be helpfull too. Thanks
 

stpracer

Senior Member
Did it idle fast when cold-hot or both?

Helms says most probable cause on obd1 is the fast idle thermo valve if cold or the idle air control valve if hot.

Did it throw any codes?
 

pills_PMD

Super Moderator
i would be willing to bet that the IAC valve came unplugged or is malfunctioning.. unplugging the MAP will also cause a mad high idle... is the throttle blade sticking? have you done anything recently with the intake manifold/throttle body area??
could be a vacuum leak
 

lsvtec

GNU/Linux Evangelist
A Bad/disconnected IAC does some wierd shit.

Slightly off topic, but pills, the B16 Skunk2 manifold comes with the holes tapped for either an LS IAC or a B16 IAC so I think I am just going to get the Skunk2 manifold.
 

lsvtec

GNU/Linux Evangelist
Originally posted by pills_PMD@Oct 1 2002, 07:08 PM
cool! i found the old IAC, let me know if you need. it

If the shop here was wrong and the manifold only takes the B16 IAC, I will let you know. Thanks.
 

Sed8ed

New Member
Guys, this is the final step in my swap.... I can't seem to diagnose the problem and I can't keep it running long enough to pull the code (residential neigbourhood). Any ways you can think of to test the IAC? Also, I was reading the swap tech about an obd1 motor into an obd2 chasis and it noted about the polarity difference in the IAB's

"For the IAB you will need to move A20 to A17. Since you will be using the OBD2 engine harness and an OBD1 GS-R ECU you will need to cut the black wire at the IAB plug and give it a 12V switched source. You can get this from the yel/blk wire at the injectors or the IACV.

The reason this needs to be done is due to the fact that the OBD1 GS-R ECU uses a negative trigger to activate the IAB and the OBD2 GS-R ECU uses a positive trigger to activate the IAB. If you use the OBD2 GS-R engine harness with the OBD1 GS-R ECU the IAB will not work by just moving A20 to A17 (as with an OBD1 GS-R ECU and OBD1 GS-R engine harness). "

could this be my problem? I have already moved the pin but I haven't switched the polarity
 

B16

Super Moderator
VIP
Originally posted by djextremity@Oct 15 2002, 01:34 AM
damn..if i could get my car to hit 4000k..man..4000000 rpms..holy crap!

=] couldn't help it

hahaha, i was going to say something too, you beat me to it :)
 
NO NO NO!!!

you are reading that article backwards. that is for a 5th gen getting a 96+ motor. you are going the other way, and so this stuff really doesn't apply.

Sorry i don't know more about this....

now do you realize when we say get the same obd motor as your car? lol
wish i could help more- but i don't know anything about this
 

Sed8ed

New Member
I know, I know... I should have listened but who could say no to a free motor??? Anyways, I may build her into an lsvtec in the future and if that happens it will be with an obd2 head. (yep already craving more power and I haven't even driven it yet). Anyways, back to the problem at hand, this is the fourth civic i've built and I haven't had any problems like this before so who knows, I may have to enlist the help of a shop (perish the thought) to get her running.

On a side note, I will soon have pics of my newest toys up for everyone to see
 
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