Avoiding Tuning

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

Compression looks very good.

Yes, the timing will advance if you're revving it up/opening the throttle.

I have a question concerning the timing, Kevin or to anyone else that may be able to guide me in the right direction.

When doing a mini-me like the OP is doing, would switching the cam gear from the original B7 head to the Z6 head (from what I know this is possible) would one still have to set their timing or would everything be all right? I know that the teeth count is different and this is why one needs to adjust the timing. At times an adjustable cam gear is reccomended but I am wondering if this would be a simpler way to do things.

To the OP, best of luck on everything to you my friend. Keep us updated. I am curious to know how everything turns out for you as I have a somewhat similar project that I may take on in the near future. :thumbsup:

P.S. Ah crap, sorry about the double posting. :doh:
 
I think it would be fine if you used a B7 timing belt but idk.

If you were using the Z6 head with everything you could not use the B7 timing belt. The number of teeth are different. I'm thinking though that if I were to switch the cam gears and match them that perhaps I would be able to use all Y7 components, in my case i.e. timing belt, water pump, cam gear...etc. etc. and not have to do anything to the timing. Again, this is just sheer speculation on my part. I have a freakin' book with a TON of write-ups on it but I haven't been able to find it since I moved. Ugh! That and my total web time is limited to whatever I can get at my first job.

Anywho, I hope to be able to get a lot of good information from this thread. I'll probably end up printing it out and putting it in my book. :D
 
If I recall correctly, the only time you'd need to swap cam gears is when going from non-VTEC D15 to VTEC.

The cam gear on the B7 is exactly the same as the Z6(PM3B).

As far as waterpump, etc. goes you'd have to use corresponding block compenents(ie, Y7 block; just use Y7 waterpump and tensioner). Every gear has the same tooth count; differences are within the tensioner(I believe the non-VTEC D15s have larger tensioners; which is why you use a Z6 belt when doing a mini-me).
 
If you were using the Z6 head with everything you could not use the B7 timing belt. The number of teeth are different. I'm thinking though that if I were to switch the cam gears and match them that perhaps I would be able to use all Y7 components, in my case i.e. timing belt, water pump, cam gear...etc. etc. and not have to do anything to the timing. Again, this is just sheer speculation on my part. I have a freakin' book with a TON of write-ups on it but I haven't been able to find it since I moved. Ugh! That and my total web time is limited to whatever I can get at my first job.

Anywho, I hope to be able to get a lot of good information from this thread. I'll probably end up printing it out and putting it in my book. :D
I thought you were doing a swap.

I have already done my mini-me swap. Its been driving for 6000 miles now. It was a bit of a practice run because I didn't know if the head was good but it did better than I ever expected. I expected it to last for a week due to the used headgasket but its still trukin' along.

I just used the stock A6 bottom end, removed the oil jet, put the head on and used a Z6 timimg belt. Thats the correct way to do it with my set up. Somewhere I read you use the timing belt to match the head but idk.
 
Last edited:
If I recall correctly, the only time you'd need to swap cam gears is when going from non-VTEC D15 to VTEC.

The cam gear on the B7 is exactly the same as the Z6(PM3B).

As far as waterpump, etc. goes you'd have to use corresponding block compenents(ie, Y7 block; just use Y7 waterpump and tensioner). Every gear has the same tooth count; differences are within the tensioner(I believe the non-VTEC D15s have larger tensioners; which is why you use a Z6 belt when doing a mini-me).

Ahh! That explains a LOT! I've always wondered when the teeth count made a difference and why. That really clears it up for me, Kevin. Thank you! Rep!

All I will have to make sure is to get a tune and my set-up will be good to go. Thanks again. :thumbsup:

EDIT: Ugh! I can't rep! My freakin' kayak needs to be spread around more. Thanks anyways though, Kevin. I think I may have accidentally reported the post. :doh: I feel like such a newb now. haha If I did report it, B, E, Clint and every other letter in the alphabet, please ignore that. :D
 
Last edited:
I got the chip and plugs in yesterday.

I put the chip in today and it made things worse.

The motor shakes and doesn't idle smooth like it does with the basemap I had on it before.

I set the timing with that chip in and it helped a bit but not much.

What does detonation sound like? I put my ear by the combustion chamber and revved it up to about 1100-1200 RPM and I heard some sound of knock. It may be a valve but it kinda sounded like a spark plug igniting.

I'm thinking I'm gonna get it tuned.
 
Detonation sounds like "tinking". Probably best to use a stethoscope or "det can".

Do you know exactly what map you had in there before? Sounds like the maps are different. Have you tried resetting your ECU by unhooking the battery?
 
When I bought the ecu I got a free basemap put on. I told him I basically have a D16Z6 with a 10:1 compression ratio.

The chip I just bought was for a stock D16Z6, and it runs worse on it.

When I changed out the chip I unhooked the ecu.

I'm not working today so I'll take a better look.
 
yeah.. that just sounds weird.

I know a higher octane would offset this, but at 10:1 it shouldn't be pinging.
 
It's not even 10:1 yet. It's like 9.8:1 or something because I still have a d16a6 headgasket.

Maybe I'll adjust the valves and put the new plugs in and set the timing once more to see if it makes a difference.
 
I did all that I listed above and my baby is one happy car. It's now on the stock d16z6 basemap and it's perfect.

Some valves were too tight and some were too loose. There were like 2 ones that didn't need touching. I just did them all to 0.07ths.

That knocking that I thought was detonation I guess was a valve.

It also goes straight to a 750 rpm idle. It used to hunt around before then stay at about 850 rpm.
 
Back
Top