b16 swap leaking oil...crappy idle...wtf

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

HATCHET_HONDA

scottie fizzle
soo i got my b16 swap running today in my 91 dx hatch. no trouble codes and everything was lookin good. started 2nd crank it was awesome. i believe im having timing issues cause it idles like crap unless i advance the dizzy as far as itll go. i was thinkin i switched the crank angle wiring around in the dizzy but i had no cel for it. could that cause the timing to be severely retarded without a cel? timing marks on the crank look good and no belt slippage. then theres the oil leak. oil seems to accumulate near the bottom of the head right below the dizzy. its right where you can see that lil corner of the head gasket. if the gasket didnt seal would that cause oil to bubble up and the horrible idle as well? any help would be awesome before i go takin this thing back apart.
 
A oil leak like that isn't going to cause your idle to fluctuate. its either coming from the valve cover seal itself, or possibly from the cam cap/seal.

Cam Seal Replacement - Team Integra

Other then idle does it run fine, or does it sound off at all rpm's. is there a loss in power when driving it, like its bogging down?
 
Mine has a very minor leak in that same spot Ive never looked at it to see where exactly its coming from because its so small. Does it rev up slow? I dont think it would run at all with the CPS wires hooked up wrong, but Im not 100% sure on that.
 
Mine has a very minor leak in that same spot Ive never looked at it to see where exactly its coming from because its so small. Does it rev up slow? I dont think it would run at all with the CPS wires hooked up wrong, but Im not 100% sure on that.


it revs up only with the dizzy advanced and yea pretty slow and backfires when i let off the throttle. if i floor it it bogs down. with the oil leak i took another look and it does seem its comin from the cam seal behind the vtec solenoid. im hopin some more sealant will fix that. i have no tach yet so im unsure what rpm its runnin at but its a pretty high idle and does not wanna rev up without stumbling
 
are the plug wires in the right order on the dizzy? probably a stupid question but i know i've managed to screw this up myself and it took me almost an hour to realize i muffed up the firing order lol. you could also check the timing to see if its right. at the very least you could rule it out as a reason for how crappy its running.
 
Last edited:
are the plug wires in the right order on the dizzy? probably a stupid question but i know i've managed to screw this up myself and it took me almost an hour to realize i muffed up the firing order lol.

thats what i thought at first cause i just looked off the engine pics in the haynes manual. ive checked it twice since then and its all good so maybe ill check once again for good measure lol. it seems to me that the ignition is retarded somehow. dammit somethings outta whack here. hmm maybe its the dizzy? i bought the complete dizzy online and have yet to take the cap off. maybe its the rotor. im makin a list of possiblilities to check tomorrow. its like 20 degrees out there
 
ya you would have coolant coming from the head gasket most likely, not oil. sounds like it's dripping from the valve cover gasket, and by the cam seal is a notorious spot. some rtv sealant will do the trick. what basemap are you running? what tuning solution do you have? any diagnostic output like hondata maybe?
 
if the ecu is not chipped you may want to look into getting it to bypss the knock sensor. Mine was idleing like sit and semed to have no power and stumbld and backfired on the way down. i chipped the ecu to ONLY bypass the knock sensor after i did my b16 swap and it fixed the problem for the most part.
 
if the ecu is not chipped you may want to look into getting it to bypss the knock sensor. Mine was idleing like sit and semed to have no power and stumbld and backfired on the way down. i chipped the ecu to ONLY bypass the knock sensor after i did my b16 swap and it fixed the problem for the most part.

im running the p30 ecu unchipped. does that ecu even look for a knock sensor? i have no cel at all which confuses the hell outta me. i have the obd1 coversion harness and i wired up the knock sensor and since there was no cel i figured everything was good.
 
My P30 wants the knock sensor.

No cell, not necessarily no problem. Again, got some data logging???
 
well it may be the timing belt after all. what line on the crank pulley should line up w the timing cover? is it the red one or the one by itself to the right of it?
 
no data logging...just a crappy idling b series. and did you hear mark is buying a 91 ef hatch that i found for sale in lake station?

actually lol yes i did. i got a text through the grapevine (not mark) about it too. it's blue right? 1000 bucks.. lol well i haven't seen it but cool. we'll c if mark actually gets it though.

hope u get it figured out man. best of luck of course
 
it should look like this

27344622sp4.jpg
 
thats exactly how i had the marks. all aligned properly and still runnin rough. so i thought maybe id switch my dizzy wires around that i ran for the mpfi conversion at the firewall. i have them connected to a plug so i switched the crank angle wires at its revving fine now. buut i now have code 9 which is the crank angle soo wtf? runs fine but now has a cel?...maybe its the dizzy?
 
Swap a known good dizzy on it and see how it runs, it doesnt even have to be a B16 dizzy, you can use a D-series dizzy to check. But Im willing to bet your dizzy is junk.
 
Swap a known good dizzy on it and see how it runs, it doesnt even have to be a B16 dizzy, you can use a D-series dizzy to check. But Im willing to bet your dizzy is junk.



dammit.. its a brand new dizzy. i dont really have any others to swap it out with. im gonna look at the wiring i have at the ecu. maybe thats switched too. but if that was switched aaand i switched the wiring at the plug i made it shoulda fixed it. if the dizzy was bad would it run fine after i did that tho?
 
Where did you get the dizzy? And even if the wiring is correct and the dist itself is bad it will still not run/run like crap.
 
Where did you get the dizzy? And even if the wiring is correct and the dist itself is bad it will still not run/run like crap.


got it brand new on ebay,180 bucks ....maybe i got the wrong part and its a non vtec dizzy. but if it was i dont think it would bolt up right. would it make a difference if the timing belt is for a b16 since i have a gsr head? could the b16 belt be the wrong size?
 
i checked ecu wiring.. all looks good. i took another look at the dizzy plug and theres 2 wires that dont match. theres a small white wire on the harness side and oppisite theres a yellowish/green stripe on the gsr dizzy. theres a small white wire and looks like a "bigger" white wire. is that the wire to the crank sensor? cause i have them switched it looks like this.

harness............................. dizzy
small white wire------larger white wire

larger white wire------yellowish/green stripe
 
Back
Top