b16a clutch/trans

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

also Have you tried starting the car when it is In gear?
 
i havent tried removing the y-fork but i'm down to that...

and yes i've tried starting the car in gear and it def. wont try jumping :(
 
wow, that is so weird, well, remove the y fork, you should be able to pull it out without taking everything apart, then see what happens. . . if is it still messed up then I would bet that it's the tranny, for 1 reason or another.
 
i dont think you can remove the y-fork without removing the transmission. however, i just sent it off to the local shop. i either have time to study for my courses or time to work on the car. considering i've spent about $1000 out of pocket i let my ego go and figured that someone who dedicates their lives to working on tranny's can give me an answer or fix within a reasonable time frame. plus i'm hoping it done by friday night so i can go outta town w/it :)

definitely appreciate all the tips & effort you've provided 'welfare'
 
I try, I just wish I was able to solve the problem for you, Post back as to what the tranny shop says after you get the tranny back.
 
i definitely will.. i went up there and they were like "one of your axles was out" i was like uh... it was in when i brought it in dude. LOL

maybe it somehow slightly came out as i was towing it?...
 
i definitely will.. i went up there and they were like "one of your axles was out" i was like uh... it was in when i brought it in dude. LOL

maybe it somehow slightly came out as i was towing it?...


didn't I say to check your axles like 10 posts ago??
 
the fix was the axle.

now my temperature guage wont work! i put a new temp sensor and it still wont read temperature! i even checked the fuse panel & all... ? also, i have to replace my knock sensor, would this cause my vtec to not kick on?

anyone have a fix for either?
 
vtec won't work if the temp sensor doesn't work.
depending on the engine there are up to 3 different temp sensors
2 are located on the cylinder head
first is a 1 wire sensor that goes to your gauge in the car
second is a 2 wire sensor that is called ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) for the ecu

the last one is USUALLY located on the thermostat housing and controls the radiator fan(s), sometimes this sensor is tapped into the back of the block between cylinders 1&2

I'm pretty sure that the one that controls VTEC is the 2 wire sensor on the Cylinder head since it goes to the ecu
Vtec does not engage when the engine is cold, so if the sensor is not working right and the ecu thinks the engine is cold then it won't let vtec engage.

Knock sensor shouldn't make your vtec not work, if you wired this sensor in yourself then it may be your wiring since this sensor requires that you use a shielded type wire so that electrical interference isn't picked up. Otherwise it's an expensive little sucker.
 
it must be my 1-wire sensor because i read no temperature in my guage cluster. but also, my vtec doesnt kick in. so maybe both my 1 wire and 2 wire sensors arent working. i have a two wire sensor that i can swap out thats brand new. my buddy gave it to me who works at a local auto parts store... but my 1-wire one must be bad as well....

i replaced the one that kicks in the fans bc my fan wouldnt kick on and it was broken...

my kar is a 00 civic si that came with that b16 so it wasnt wired by me or anything like that... my knock sensor is flat out broken, so i have to replace that one. so what all kinds of symptoms might i feel out that broken knock sensor? any idle issues? high idle? or idle going crazy at a stop light?
 
also, how the F do u know so much about each sensor & application? did you have a b16 odb2 yourself? or just flat out a honda tech?
 
Flat out honda tech :)

5 years sharing knowledge on HS
15 years working on hondas
AND TO THIS DAY I LEARN NEW THINGS EVERY DAY!
 
Lets start with the codes first, this will make it easier to diagnose what is actually wrong with the car.
get an obd2 scanner and give me the p codes, Ill figure it out from there.
 
my vtec is working & my temperature is working now. but my fan wont kick on anymore.

so i got a diagnostics at the local parts shop and it was showing:
P0118 - temperature sensor
P0500 - speed sensor (which i dont care for)
P1337 - misfire... my plugs are bad. in fact, this morning i noticed a little sign of antifreeze in my dip stick. i know where my oil leak is coming from so I plan on taking off my head and putting ARP studs with a new head gasket. I plan on putting it on the bottle pretty soon.

Any recommendations prior to putting the gas?
 
for the temp sensor:
 

Attachments

  • si figure.jpg
    si figure.jpg
    140.9 KB · Views: 576
Follow the diagnostic chart to the letter, otherwise if you skip a step you will miss something.

plug your speed sensor back in.
Do a tune up for god's sake
As far as antifreeze on your dipstick, you better get that taken care of fast, that is way bad for your engine it will eat your bearings.

if you are planning to have the head off and have a few extra bucks then I would get a drop in block guard, it's not foolproof, but it's cheap if you are going to be shooting some nitrous.
Use care with nitrous and do NOT go over about 50 shot dry or you might blow the engine.
 
got the blockguard on my list to a good speed shop. or is the ebay ones ok?

i plan on going with the bottle ina while. once i get it all running well & all... i plan on running 1 50 for out the hole and 1 75ish on top end, with WOT switch and i've heard of a module that will open nitrous at whatever rpm you set it and close it at whatever rpm you set it. any good info on that? or who makes it? i plan on running it as safe but as strong as i can.

i also plan on getting msd, fuel rail, pressure regulator & make sure its running good with a zex plugs. once its all in, i want a aftermarket ecu & hondata s200 prolly. can you give me info as to which ecu i would want & chip for my application?

i just built my bottom end with all honda oem parts. jdm b16 block, stock crank, rods & pistons, all new, new rings, etc. new water pump, new oil pump... my fkn head gasket sucks or i didnt torque it properly. i'm getting honda oem or felpro or something.

i may add some stage 1 or stage 2 cams to have that nitrous pull hard as shit. when i throw in the cams, i'm gonna be in the works of building a head with all forged parts for that.. that way i wont go down with bad springs & my kar being under downtime...
 
honda oem is good or cometic for the headgasket.
You can get a set of cams if you want but you will want to do valve springs and retainers while you're at it, maybe some ferra valves if you can afford to.
zex makes a nitrous kit that it programmable for rpm, at least they used to. Im sure you can find a module to do what you want.
Venom also used to make a nice setup for WOT and had an add-on for rpm programmability.
I would be careful with the 75 shot unless you run it wet (nitrous+fuel)
as far as ecu, AEM makes a really nice setup (I have been after one for a while now) they are in the 1000 range, but it will be the last ecu you ever buy, it is completely programmable for EVERYTHING.
Hondata s200 is good, s300 is better. I'ts all about how much you want to spend and how accesable a dyno is for you to tune on (or have someone else tune on)
Get any aftermarket fuel rail you want, AEM makes some nice ones and I think you can get a pressure regulator anywhere, just make sure to get a decent one, cuz if your pressure regulator goes bad at the wrong time, your engine will eat it.
 
i bought a Fel-Pro one. but what about that blockguard? can I just get one off ebay? are those any good?
 
Back
Top