B16's Time Trial Road Racing Del Sol Overhaul Thread!!!

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vtecsir1 said:
free, they are all 3's and i can try to pull that oil jet for you too.

just pay for shipping.

road racers stick together :)
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You're the man.

My bad rod has a 5 next to the P72 on the cap. I've been told this is a weight, wonder if 3's are that far off? Think I could still use that rod?

Let me know what shipping is for the parts and I'll pay pal you.
 
youll probably be fine. i dont even remember even looking at those numbers.

edit, IIRC, those numbers might relate to the bearing size required. the crank has letters, that you match up with the number on the rod to figure out bearing size/color. i could be wrong
 
through the VC vents hes going to install. you have the same thing on your motor. the passages from the head lead to the block. its all relatively the same and doesnt really matter where you vent from.

i installed nipples on the back of my motor to vent the pressure from though .

see:
shortblock_assembly_back_of_block.jpg


you can see where the black box normally is, is blocked off and there are 2 large nipples screwed into where there are normally plugs. these nipples are vented to a catch can.
 
from what i understand, in stock form, pressure from within the valve cover is countered with venturi effect of attaching a tube from the nipple on the back of the valve cover to the intake manifold and the black box is to filter and relieve pressure from the lower crank case. wouldnt it be risky to plug the bottom and let the top have normal atmospheric pressure? wouldnt you want to relieve both the top and bottom of pressure?
 
the top and bottom are connected by the oil drain passages. so the pressure is equal. when you vent from either location the higher pressure area (whether it be top or bottom) will just equalize with the low pressure area. doesnt really matter IMO.

i also have my stock VC vent Tee-d into one of the lines from the block, so it vents to the can too. ive seen tons of people just vent from VC without problems. the black box hardly vents anything anyway, the tube is tiny.
 
kelsodeez said:
from what i understand, in stock form, pressure from within the valve cover is countered with venturi effect of attaching a tube from the nipple on the back of the valve cover to the intake manifold and the black box is to filter and relieve pressure from the lower crank case. wouldnt it be risky to plug the bottom and let the top have normal atmospheric pressure? wouldnt you want to relieve both the top and bottom of pressure?
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There isn't really any venturi effect(which requires pressure difference) and the PCV works mainly during closed and part throttle. At WOT the pressure at the PCV valve and "intake"(tube to valve cover) are the same so there's no circulation and any blow-by is just vented "normally"
 
that is actually kind of a load off of my mind for my build. i was under the impression that i had to vent the back of my block too since i eliminated my black box. ill just run a drain back from my VC catch can to the back of the block and be done with it. hopefully i dont suck a bunch of oil into the catch can too.
 
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GSRCRXSI is correct.

I ran the same z10 kit and just ran the 2 lines to my moroso catch can with a drain back. I ran the vent tube into those 2 lines as well.


B16 I think the numbers are for bore size used for bearings but not 100% positive.

I have type r pistons on the end of these rods so I will have to press them off first but can send a couple this weekend. I couldnt imagine it being more than about 10 dollars. I will send you 2 that way you can pick between the 2 as for which one looks better etc.
 
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I think the number on the side is for the bore size. This number is on the cap only right next to the P72. Anyways, I'll chance it with your rod.

vtecsir1, you're awesome man. If its easier for you; you can ship me with the pistons and I'll have them pressed out and sent back to you. I don't want you to go too far out of your way to help me out; you're already doing a lot.

On a side note, I can't get my hands on a caliper accurate enough to measure out of round on my crank. I need something that reads on the order of 0.001mm and the one I have only goes to 0.01mm. I'm considering just replacing the rod and bearings and crossing my fingers? Thoughts? Unless I can get a machinist to my house with his tools to measure under my car for me? lol
 
Pictures from the weekend. A few of them you can see smoke from my catch can over flowing onto my header. :(

112

JR1N5510.JPG
 
No problem!

The cap end has a 4 in front of p72 for all my rods. I would give you all 4 but I had number 4 spin too so Im not sure if that one is stretched or damaged.

I can send the whole thing to you, its probably better off having someone do it right while removing the pistons and putting a new one on. I paid to get mine done so I didnt potentially damage the end rod. PM me your info and I will get them out to you this weekend.
 
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GSRCRXsi said:
edit, IIRC, those numbers might relate to the bearing size required. the crank has letters, that you match up with the number on the rod to figure out bearing size/color. i could be wrong
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You are right. I just went through this process myself:) Everything you need to know is in the fsm.

This thread makes me think I need to do something about crankcase ventiliation. Currently my plan is to run the OEM setup. I will not be racing mine, however.
 
wish ya luck bud.. GOOD luck, not that bad shit you've been having...
 
And it continues...

Rotated the crank some more, found a scorch spot on the rod journal that is rough feeling. Motor is coming out and seeing if I can get the crank repaired. If not, gotta find a new crank. :(
 
Ya, if I can't repair it I'll just pick up a GSR crank. I've found many for sale for $100-$125 which isn't too bad. R cranks go for like $500 used! Craziness. I would rather get a GSR crank and get it balanced.
 
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